First of all, I bought this car from a private party. I had him meet me at my buddys shop it was test driven and inspected by a good friend who had it on a hoist and everything... thought it was good right? Nope!

Well, Somebody has to have figured it out. The bad part for me. Is i missed 1.5 weeks of work because im a single father and my job requires driving and I have ran out of options.

I was driving and the car jerked (the next morning after i purchased the car).
I restarted the car... And it was in limp mode. Brought it to my step dads shopped we scanned it... no communication.. Brought it to my other buddys 6 hours into it...they checked all the fuses and wires... no luck

I bought the new ECM and went to the dealer in limp mode. They installed it...And once they installed it it was throwing a bad "heater sensor code" I believe that he said which is the 02 sensor. Not sure though... So I was driving home (Happy, glad... thinking finally!) i get about 10 miles down the road... the car Jerks and stalls out on me...i restart it up... the alternator belt is screaming bloody murder... and it was showing a batterylight.. and check engine,car was not in limp mode (yet) so im on the side of a small highway and i start it up and drive it off to a near parking lot... which was hard to do... and stomach turning...

Then my check engine light is flashing and everytime it flashed my ECM made a click and the car would jerk and all of a sudden loose power when it would flash for a quick second. My buddys shop was not to far, and he reminded me the alternator belt is not connected to water pump so u should be ok. So I get there and it went back into limp mode.. :/ Grr.. so now I find out the ecm isnt for a ex vtec... but it ran fine while it did...so now the ecm is back in limp mode... no tach or temp guage...im so lost.... I ordered a the RIGHT ecm this time not from someone on ebay who thinks any 04 ecm will work. and a new alternator... Im just worried it is more then that..

I believe it maybe be the 02 sensor (can that even cuz such a problem)??

Or a bad ground????

Please if anyone has anything that can help. I am more then grateful to take any advice thrown at me.

Thanks!

 

Alternator seized? Remove belt and spin alternator by hand, if it is stuck replace or open it up and clean the rust out.

Bad O2 sensor heater? You can check that, with engine cold unplug sensor and measure the resistance between the two wires that are the same color on the sensor -- should be 10 to 40 ohms -- if open circuit replace sensor.

 

Could those problems cause the ecu to burn out?

 

The temperature gauge is not connected to the ECU at all, so since that stops working it sounds like there is a problem with the car fuses or wiring where it is losing power to a whole circuit. This can also cause "O2 sensor heater circuit" codes that are actually due to lack of power not sensor failure.

 

"P0141 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction"

Thats the Code it gave the honda stealership. I already changed the alternator because it was squealing and when all the problems started the battery light came on and then the alternator noise? And I seen on another forum a woman had a problem same as mine and it was her alternator arching and killed her ecm. So I changed the alternator... I just want to know what all should I check before I just waste another few hundred dollars in a matter of minutes.

So monday im want to look into the p0141 - But my question is... Could that even be related to my problem? And which sensor is this (location on car)?

Open to all suggestions. Thanks

 

Oh and I'm pretty sure it is connected to the ECU because everybody with the same issue I have researched all have the same symptoms. And why would it work fine before the original ecu went out? then i had the 2nd ecu installed and it worked fine again until it was fried?


Thanks