What terminal pairs lacked proper continuity? I would have expected lack of continuity between the battery and IG1 terminals with the key in the ON(III) position. I would have also expected the presence of continuity for some pairs with the key in the ON(0) position.

Call your local Honda dealership and auto parts store about purchasing a replacement switch:

 

so its the white switch and not the piece that you insert the key correct?
Also, if the switch is bad, how would the car still try to turn over, the starter does work.

 

There are different circuits in the switch for different functions. So it is possible to have one that will operate the starter but not power up the ignition. This doesn't sound like your problem though. Do the oil and charge lights on the dash come on when you turn the key on but don't start? The oil light should also stay on at least for a short time while cranking the engine though it does not start. These lights are powered by the same circuit in the key switch that runs the ignition and the ECU.

 

What terminals and positions of the ignition switch failed to show continuity?

 

okay, the switch is good, i just checked it again and everything checked out. But still not getting any spark.

 

bump ttt

 

Is the CEL light ON? Are you able to retrieve a CEL code(s) from the ECU? I think you should check whether the ECU or wiring between the ECU and igniter is the problem.

 

i cant read codes off the ecu because im using a obd1 ecu and i dont know what two wires to jump to read the code from the gauge cluster because of the jumper harness im using.

 

no spark has to be fried distributor

 

no, i tested the dizzy in another car and it works fine, tested the ecu today, works fine as well.

any other ideas????