Yes, didnt you say to measure it while in pos. lll?

 

Our posts are being delayed for some reason and showing up out of order...

 

Okay, the high electrical load of the cranking starter explains the lower voltage. If the test is done without pushing the clutch pedal, the voltage in ON(II) and ON(III) should be the same.

 

Hmmm. This voltage should have been ~10.6V. Disconnect the Yel/Grn wire and measure voltage from the same terminal where you disconnected the Yel/Grn wire. Also check that the Blk/Yel wires attached to the coil and igniter unit are clean and tight. Do the same for the Wht/Blu wire.

Yes, see diagram.

 

The Honda-tech forum is having a similar problem, but worse.

 

Ok, I will check the ECU when I get home. Whats the issue if the continuity is good between ECU and Dist? Bad ECU? Price? Which way do I go...

 

In general, there's no simple way to test directly whether an ECU is bad. Therefore, one generally exhausts all obvious possibilities before swapping in a known good ECU, particularly when the ECU must be purchased for this test.

 

Continuity from A21/22 to YEL/GRN on Igniter was good ~.03 Ohms

Could this all be because I went to premium fuel? Cause there were no problems until I filled up with premium for the first time. Also when I mentioned "push starting it" I ment my wife pulled the car and I popped the clutch. Could this have ruined the distributor? I have warranty so maybe I should swap out with another new distributor. I did notice on the new distributor the connector insulation was dry rotted.

 

The Yel/Grn wire clearly does not have an open. Now check this same wire for a short (continuity to ground on the thermostat housing).

Premium fuel and push/pull starting would not prevent spark or damage the distributor.

In your previous test, I think the voltage on the Yel/Grn wire was too low. In ON(II), retest the voltage to ground at the Yel/Grn wire terminal on the igniter unit. Compare it with the voltage measured at the Blk/Yel wire terminal on the igniter unit and across the two battery posts.

 

Well. I tested the igniter on the distributor according to the Haynes Manual. And it was no good. Since I had a warranty on the whole distributor I took it back and put in a new one. It started right up no problem. So either I had a bad dist. which I think is the issue cause it had dry rotted wires on it even tho it was refurbished. Or Ive got something bad elsewhere that is frying the igniter and if thats the case it will only be a matter of time before this one goes too. Your thoughts?