98 Civic LX doesn't quite turnover
Yeah testing the coil and such is based on the assumption that the battery and starter are OK, it cranks at a normal speed but will not fire. At this point removing the battery from the car and charging it up before testing further would be a good idea.
Alright, after a busy week last week, I finally got back to looking at this problem.
I had the battery charged and put it back in the car.
I also made sure that the rotor was spinning when I attempted to start the car and it was, so that effectively eliminates the timing belt as the problem.
In addition, I also replaced the ignition coil.
So, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil have all been replaced and are new. We are still not getting any spark at the plugs.
The latest development, however, is that now, unlike before, the check engine light does not go out after 5 seconds when put in the on position. So, I am guessing I need to read the code off of the OBD port now?
Can anyone else think what might be causing the no spark issue, perhaps the Ignition Control Module?
Thanks.
I had the battery charged and put it back in the car.
I also made sure that the rotor was spinning when I attempted to start the car and it was, so that effectively eliminates the timing belt as the problem.
In addition, I also replaced the ignition coil.
So, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil have all been replaced and are new. We are still not getting any spark at the plugs.
The latest development, however, is that now, unlike before, the check engine light does not go out after 5 seconds when put in the on position. So, I am guessing I need to read the code off of the OBD port now?
Can anyone else think what might be causing the no spark issue, perhaps the Ignition Control Module?
Thanks.
1) Pull the CEL code(s) as detailed at the link in my signature. Post the codes to get feedback.
2) Test whether you have battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire going to the coil when the key is turned to ON(II).
2) Test whether you have battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire going to the coil when the key is turned to ON(II).
Well, I am finally back in town from business. Tonight I attempted to pull the CEL code as mentioned in your sig RonJ.
I found the plug that was outlined there, but I tried speaker wire, and two different size paper clips.
Whenever I turn it to 'ON' position it doesn't flash. I am guessing that i must not be making proper contact in the plug.
Do you have any suggestions/tips/tricks for making a good connection in the plug.
Thanks.
I found the plug that was outlined there, but I tried speaker wire, and two different size paper clips.
Whenever I turn it to 'ON' position it doesn't flash. I am guessing that i must not be making proper contact in the plug.
Do you have any suggestions/tips/tricks for making a good connection in the plug.
Thanks.
Well, I am finally back in town from business. Tonight I attempted to pull the CEL code as mentioned in your sig RonJ.
I found the plug that was outlined there, but I tried speaker wire, and two different size paper clips.
Whenever I turn it to 'ON' position it doesn't flash. I am guessing that i must not be making proper contact in the plug.
Do you have any suggestions/tips/tricks for making a good connection in the plug.
Thanks.
I found the plug that was outlined there, but I tried speaker wire, and two different size paper clips.
Whenever I turn it to 'ON' position it doesn't flash. I am guessing that i must not be making proper contact in the plug.
Do you have any suggestions/tips/tricks for making a good connection in the plug.
Thanks.
1) What method are you using to check for spark?
2) Is there battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil?
3) Without the service connector jumped, does the CEL remain ON when the key is turned to ON(II)?
4) With the service connector jumped, does the CEL still remain ON when the key is turned to ON(II)?
5) When the key is turned to ON(II), do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds
6) Does the engine crank normally with the key turned to ON(III)?
The answers to your questions:
Answering all of these questions will help find a solution to your problem:
1) What method are you using to check for spark?
Pull out a spark plug with it still attached to a wire and try to start the car. No spark at the plug
2) Is there battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil?
Yes there is voltage at the Blk/Yel wire.
3) Without the service connector jumped, does the CEL remain ON when the key is turned to ON(II)?
Yes
4) With the service connector jumped, does the CEL still remain ON when the key is turned to ON(II)?
Yes
5) When the key is turned to ON(II), do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds
I believe I heard it prime, it is hard to tell because the car is in a large garage and the sounds echo.
6) Does the engine crank normally with the key turned to ON(III)?
Yes.
We also tested the Voltage at the Blu/Wht wire that is also connected to the engine coil and it also has voltage. After seeing that, we tested to see what the voltage across the Blk/Yel to Blue/Wht wire was and it was zero. If there is no voltage, we are thinking that there must be a break in the electrical circuit somewhere because if there is no voltage how could a spark be made?
Answering all of these questions will help find a solution to your problem:
1) What method are you using to check for spark?
Pull out a spark plug with it still attached to a wire and try to start the car. No spark at the plug
2) Is there battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil?
Yes there is voltage at the Blk/Yel wire.
3) Without the service connector jumped, does the CEL remain ON when the key is turned to ON(II)?
Yes
4) With the service connector jumped, does the CEL still remain ON when the key is turned to ON(II)?
Yes
5) When the key is turned to ON(II), do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds
I believe I heard it prime, it is hard to tell because the car is in a large garage and the sounds echo.
6) Does the engine crank normally with the key turned to ON(III)?
Yes.
We also tested the Voltage at the Blu/Wht wire that is also connected to the engine coil and it also has voltage. After seeing that, we tested to see what the voltage across the Blk/Yel to Blue/Wht wire was and it was zero. If there is no voltage, we are thinking that there must be a break in the electrical circuit somewhere because if there is no voltage how could a spark be made?
The distributor voltages are fine.
The main concern at this point is that the CEL remains ON steady with or without the service connector jumped. This could mean a bad ECU or a short in the service connector circuit. Start by inspecting the 7.5A BACKUP fuse and its slot in the under-hood fuse box for damage. Also carefully inspect the service connector and wires near it for a short or damage.
Try to provide a more definitive answer about whether or not the fuel pump primes.
The main concern at this point is that the CEL remains ON steady with or without the service connector jumped. This could mean a bad ECU or a short in the service connector circuit. Start by inspecting the 7.5A BACKUP fuse and its slot in the under-hood fuse box for damage. Also carefully inspect the service connector and wires near it for a short or damage.
Try to provide a more definitive answer about whether or not the fuel pump primes.
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