98 DX- Bad Clutch, Tranny, Syncros???
#1
98 DX- Bad Clutch, Tranny, Syncros???
I just started to notice this on my 98 dx with 143k miles
When I push in the clutch to put it in 1st gear, it is very hard to put into gear. Same thing for reverse when I first start out. The other gears are not as hard but still don't seem right. After I drive for a while the shifter seems to go into each gear easier, but when I first start the car it is very very hard to get the shifter into gear
Any thoughts? Thanks
When I push in the clutch to put it in 1st gear, it is very hard to put into gear. Same thing for reverse when I first start out. The other gears are not as hard but still don't seem right. After I drive for a while the shifter seems to go into each gear easier, but when I first start the car it is very very hard to get the shifter into gear
Any thoughts? Thanks
#2
This usually happens because the clutch fluid has leaked out or the master cylinder is bad. With a hydraulic problem, pressing the clutch pedal doesn't move the parts in the clutch far enough to fully disengage.
If the fluid is full, try pumping the pedal a few times before trying to shift into gear-- if that helps, you need a new master cylinder.
If the fluid is gone, you may need to bleed the system after refilling it. Of course it will leak out again until you fix the leak. Common leaks are the slave cylinder and the master cylinder, from the master it will run down inside the car and not be real noticeable because it goes behind the carpet.
If the fluid is full, try pumping the pedal a few times before trying to shift into gear-- if that helps, you need a new master cylinder.
If the fluid is gone, you may need to bleed the system after refilling it. Of course it will leak out again until you fix the leak. Common leaks are the slave cylinder and the master cylinder, from the master it will run down inside the car and not be real noticeable because it goes behind the carpet.
#3
I checked the clutch fluid reservoir and it was low. The fluid was just below the hose where it should go into.
I pumped the clutch and it may be slightly better, but its still not right. The clutch doesn't engage until it's close the floor. ( like there's too much slack in it and it doesn't get tight till its close too the floor. Is this the slave or master cylinder? Where are these to check?
I pumped the clutch and it may be slightly better, but its still not right. The clutch doesn't engage until it's close the floor. ( like there's too much slack in it and it doesn't get tight till its close too the floor. Is this the slave or master cylinder? Where are these to check?
Last edited by firecatf7333; 06-03-2014 at 05:00 PM.
#4
Since the fluid ran low, you should try bleeding it first. Look at the diagram on this page for reference:
Honda Automotive Parts
The process is the same as bleeding brake lines, if you have ever done that. You will need a helper to press the clutch pedal while you work under the hood. This procedure is done with the engine not running, the key should be completely off.
The slave cylinder is mounted on the front of the transmission. Remove the rubber cap (part #2) and loosen the bleeder bolt (1). Have your assistant press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. Some fluid will come out of the bolt. There is a barb to put a hose onto it and direct into a container if you are concerned about making a small mess. With the pedal on the floor, tighten the bleeder bolt, only THEN have your assistant release the pedal. It may not spring up by itself, if so he should pull it up by hand and make sure it is all the way up and hold it there. Then loosen the bleeder bolt again and repeat the process. Repeat several times, making sure to keep the reservoir full. If you let the reservoir run empty again, you'll have to start over. Finally tighten the bolt replace the cap and test drive.
Honda Automotive Parts
The process is the same as bleeding brake lines, if you have ever done that. You will need a helper to press the clutch pedal while you work under the hood. This procedure is done with the engine not running, the key should be completely off.
The slave cylinder is mounted on the front of the transmission. Remove the rubber cap (part #2) and loosen the bleeder bolt (1). Have your assistant press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. Some fluid will come out of the bolt. There is a barb to put a hose onto it and direct into a container if you are concerned about making a small mess. With the pedal on the floor, tighten the bleeder bolt, only THEN have your assistant release the pedal. It may not spring up by itself, if so he should pull it up by hand and make sure it is all the way up and hold it there. Then loosen the bleeder bolt again and repeat the process. Repeat several times, making sure to keep the reservoir full. If you let the reservoir run empty again, you'll have to start over. Finally tighten the bolt replace the cap and test drive.
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