hot no start problem
i have a 92 honda civic 1.5l . i have a hot no start problem. After car is at opperation temp, and i turn it off and wait about 5 minutes, it will not restart. so far i have replaced the core that helped for about a week but then acted up again. so i replaced it again but no differance. i have looked up this problem on the internet and found that a relay under the dash goes bad and causes this, but i replaced it and it did not help. i'm getting fire. so i tried to check fuel pressure but there is no way to check it. so i changed the fuel pump, still no differance. i put a nowd light on the wires to the injectors and found that 2 are dim and 2 are really bright. so i tried the ignitor but no differance. so i tried a computer still no differance. then i tried coolant temp sensor. still nothing. can someone please help
i had a similar problem...when the car got warm it would hesitate to start. found out it was the battery. changed the battery and then found out that the starter was also bad. does the engine turn over but not start, and the more and more the turning over seems weaker and weaker. if so, check into the starter that was my problem.
Did you replace the "PGM-FI Main Relay" or some other relay under the dash?
To check if the fuel pump is coming on first you can just listen for it, it should prime for 2 seconds when you turn the key on but don't try to start. Or you can disconnect the fuel return hose that goes from the fuel pressure regulator back to a hard line on the firewall (not the one from the fuel filter). If the pump is working, fuel should come out there when you turn the key on but don't try to start.
To check if the fuel pump is coming on first you can just listen for it, it should prime for 2 seconds when you turn the key on but don't try to start. Or you can disconnect the fuel return hose that goes from the fuel pressure regulator back to a hard line on the firewall (not the one from the fuel filter). If the pump is working, fuel should come out there when you turn the key on but don't try to start.
yes all parts replaced were new, except computer. fuel filter has been replaced, battery is new, car will turn over everytime but won't start unless you wait a half hour to an hour or unplug 2 injectors. the fuel pump works but just don't know how to check fuel pressure. yes i have replaced the relay. is there a some kind temperature relay because it only does this after opperation temp.
How long ago did the problem start, and how long has it been since you replaced the fuel filter?
Another consideration is a loose battery wire clamp. Check that out and make sure they are nice and tight. If you can move them on the post, they need to be tighter.
Another consideration is a loose battery wire clamp. Check that out and make sure they are nice and tight. If you can move them on the post, they need to be tighter.
To check fuel pressure you'd replace the bolt on the outlet of the fuel filter with an adapter fitting and connect a gauge to the adapter. Better parts stores should be able to hook you up. There's a pre-filter in the tank before the pump as well.
Also check the ground wires on the thermostat housing, they ground the whole computer system. It is important to notice if the CEL comes on then goes out when you turn the key but don't start, if it doesn't go out there is likely a problem with the main relay.
Are any ECU codes set? There's a remote chance there are uneven signals from the distributor. There is no temperature relay. Unplugging the coolant temperature sensor (the one under the distributor with two wires) will either make the ECU think the engine is very cold, or put it in limp mode.
Also check the ground wires on the thermostat housing, they ground the whole computer system. It is important to notice if the CEL comes on then goes out when you turn the key but don't start, if it doesn't go out there is likely a problem with the main relay.
Are any ECU codes set? There's a remote chance there are uneven signals from the distributor. There is no temperature relay. Unplugging the coolant temperature sensor (the one under the distributor with two wires) will either make the ECU think the engine is very cold, or put it in limp mode.
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