Alright...i got my timing belt, water pump....etc. put on last night. i have a d16z6 so i set the crank timing exactly like the haynes manual says. we even cranked the motor over a half dozen times and checked the tension on the belt and also the timing marks. i took the car around the block and it was still falling on its face at about 3k rpm like it was before i did anything to it. we decided to check the ignition timing. it was slightly retarded so we advanced it. i drove it...it seemed better. we advanced it somemore and now the hesitation is gone...but i just dont have much power at all. i dont think i should have to run with the timing advanced that much either. i have no codes set either. heres what i have replaced so far on the car....the car has 195k miles on it as well.

plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor button, fuel filter, air filter, timing belt, 3 accessory belts, cam seal, crank seal, plug seals.

i dont know much about hondas and this one has the vtec. could this be a fuel problem, ie maybe the fuel pump cutting out? just looking for other ideas. Thanks in adavance

 

Any codes, even some that don't turn on the check engine light will put the ECU into "limp home" mode where performance is restricted. So check for codes again.

Make sure it is running on all 4 cylinders by disconnecting the fuel injector plugs one at at a time while idling. It should do the same thing where it will slow down and stumble the same way on each one. If you disconnect an injector and nothing happens, that cylinder is dead.

Could be a weak fuel pump. Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Also check for a good flow from the return hose when you disconnect it (do not run engine, just turn the key on and let it prime).

 

im leaning at this point to a fuel problem, but i just dont have any experience with honda motors. we are going to check the fuel pressure tonight and see what it is at. also, i have not tried to pull the codes because the light has not came on. i thought the light had to be on to let me know a code was set. again, this is all new to me with this car. should i go ahead and put a code reader on it? Where is the plug at to pull the codes on this car?

 

if the power drops off at 3k or 3500 rpms your timing is one tooth off. MARK THE BELT AND CAM GEAR WITH A SHARPIE OR PAINT PEN. just lossen the tensioner bolt, pull up on the belt and turn the gear with a 12mm soket just 1 tooth. tension the tensioner test if its better you got it. if its worse. loosen the tensioner and turn 2 teeth the opposite direction as before. tighten and it should be all good. if you had to keep advancing the timing you probly need to advance the gear 1 tooth.

i've done many timing jobs onmy ownand freinds cars (well more head gaskets but i have to time it when im done). i've had that problem a few times.

i'd put money on it being a tooth off and it will only take you ten mins, tops to fix

 

I think you have OBDII, in which case an OBDII scanner should be used. There are more detailed codes available with a scanner compared to using the blinking light readout.

 

A 95 Civic has OBDI. Look for codes using the jumper wire method detailed in the link in my signature. Does the CEL work? It should turn ON for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON and then turn OFF.

 

Ok, i just got home and checked. The CEL light is coming on when you turn the key on and stays on for a few seconds and goes off. Just like my jeep and silverado does. So it appears to be working. I am going to reset the ignition timing back to stock and adjust the timing on the cam like scottdh20 stated above. What is the method for checking fuel pressure? I might end up going that route next if the timing doesnt help. Thanks again for all the help.

 

I am wondering the same thing. How do you connect the fuel pressure gauge to the system? All I see is banjo fittings on the pressure side.