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Low fuel economy?

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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:16 PM
  #31  
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Greddy has a D16Y8 engine. You have a D16Y7 engine. The IACVs are slightly different for these engine. The diagram that I posted matches your engine.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 07:21 PM
  #32  
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You'll definitely need to remove the intake air cleaner box from the throttle body. Just to let you know, the IACV on the D16Y7 is a bitch to get out -- very little access. Having small hands would help. I felt that removing the IACV entirely was necessary for thorough cleaning, but I have also heard that this can be done with the IACV still connected to the coolant hoses.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 08:20 PM
  #33  
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I hope you're still out there Ron, lol.

I just got this thing off. You're right. It's a bitch! Anyways, this thing looks nothing like the IACV in the other thread. There's no screen to clean. What should I be doing with this thing, or is it even something I should have removed in the first place? There is carbon buildup looking stuff, but nothing looks clogged. Should I spray it down with brake cleaner anyways and hope it does the trick? There's screws holding on the grey plastic electric thing but it doesn't look like it wants to come off once I unscrew it. There's also screws on the other side and a clear plastic thing but I don't know if that wants to come off either.

Hopefully I can do something useful with this thing before I put it back on tonight in preparation for work. :P

Edit - I got a little snoopy and popped off the plastic end. It appeared to have an adhesive-like gasket that I probably shouldn't have undone. Furthermore, there was nothing that looked like it needed clean, just a magnetic motor deal. So I put it back on. I opened the clear plastic thing and there was a floating little plastic thing in there. Again, sealed by an adhesive gasket like substance. I put both ends back together just fine but umm.. did I just screw this thing up you think?

Edit Edit - Ok, so I had to put this thing back together tonight so I could get to work in the morning. We've had a crazy weekend of high speed arctic wind and lemme tell ya, that stuff sucks to work in. Still, better than rain I think. Anyways, I sprayed the IACV out with brake cleaner and got as much of the soot out as possible. While there isn't a screen on this particular IACV, the soot did seem to interfere with smooth operation of the valve. After cleaning this thing out, is seems like the valve operates without any resistance. I put my car back together and my warm up idle was almost at 2000rpm, though it started mellowing back down to 1500rpm after a few seconds. After it warmed, it hovered at about 900rpm. I drove it an exit or two down the freeway and when I pulled back into my apartments and put it in park, it went right back to 900rpm. Me thinks this is good so far, but only time will tell. It was definitely kinda a bitch to take out though, you weren't kidding. Especially with freezing, trembling hands and my light source shaking like mad (flashlight in mouth while teeth chattering from cold).
 

Last edited by simons81; Jan 18, 2009 at 09:42 PM.
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #34  
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The working conditions are definitely a factor. I just cleaned the IACV on my '00 D16Y7, and it didn't seem difficult at all...in the comfort of a heated, well-lit garage.
 
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #35  
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True. Honestly, not too bad. The hose removal is the worst part, but only because it requires WD-40 and worst of all, patience.
 
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #36  
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Ok, I added that Seafoam stuff last weekend. 1/3 in vacuum tube, 1/3 in gas tank, and 1/3 in crankcase. I dunno if it was this thread or another that said to change oil at 100 miles, but I'm at 110 miles. My questions is whether I'm ok for another 20-30 miles. I called Oil Can Henry's and they want $80 for an oil change with premium synthetic 5w-30 oil, which is a bunch of crap. I've done a million oil changes but I can't do a change until this Saturday cause of work and school. Can I make it another 20-30 or should I bite the bullet and pay $80?
 
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 01:15 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by simons81
Ok, I added that Seafoam stuff last weekend. 1/3 in vacuum tube, 1/3 in gas tank, and 1/3 in crankcase. I dunno if it was this thread or another that said to change oil at 100 miles, but I'm at 110 miles. My questions is whether I'm ok for another 20-30 miles. I called Oil Can Henry's and they want $80 for an oil change with premium synthetic 5w-30 oil, which is a bunch of crap. I've done a million oil changes but I can't do a change until this Saturday cause of work and school. Can I make it another 20-30 or should I bite the bullet and pay $80?
Just take it easy on the engine for the next 20-30 miles.
 
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RonJ
Just take it easy on the engine for the next 20-30 miles.
Ok wait a second if i added that seafoam last week i have to do an oil change at 100 miles? cuz i'm at 110 miles. And why must we do an oil change at 100 miles? What happens if we don't do it? Cuz i only have about 600 miles on this oil change and it would be a killer to do another oil change so damn fast.
 

Last edited by WILMER007; Jan 23, 2009 at 09:32 AM.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:43 AM
  #39  
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Well, the Seafoam is like gasoline. It thins the oil and thereby reduces its viscosity and ability to lubricate the engine. Change your oil as soon as you can. I wouldn't want the engine to get damaged.
 
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #40  
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Ok well i guess i'll do it tommorrow then. I have to stop by Autozone today anyways to return the bushings i don't need so i'll just use that credit to buy the oil and buy the filter at Walmart since it's $10 at Walmart and i gotta go by there today anyways. Thanks for your help...

Do you know if the oil is gonna come out super black or regular? I mean it is only less than 600 miles new but the seafoam might have caused it to change prematurely.
 



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