my problem is when accelerating normal, not flooing, the power will surge, rpms wont change, but it will do this till i get to aboutu 3000 rpm, and also my idle is way low to. at first when it is cold it will bounce around 1000-1500, then it will idle fine at 1000, then drop to 500, then drop again to about what im guessing is 250. and when you go to accelerate it surges. now if i just stomp on the gas it takes off just fine. ive cleaned the throttle body pretty darn good. any suggestions would be great. im thinking it might be my throttle body.

 

What year/model Civic?

Is the Check Engine Light ON?

When did you do the last basic tune up (plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor)?

At night, do you notice whether the intensity of the lights fluctuates?

The idle problem may be a dirty IACV or FIV (if you have one), air in the cooling system, or an intake air/vacuum leak.

 

the only light thats on, is the SRS light. is that my engine light? and its been on since day one when i bought this car almosta year ago. its a 96 ex 5 speed. the tune up is recent. i even installed an msd 6a box, and blaster ss coil. ive cleaned the iac valve. and cleaned the TB, it was real dirty, i poliched the bore a lil to. but i didnt touch where the throttle body touches the TB because i didnt want to have any clearance issues there. didnt want a gap between the TB and throttle blade. ive tried adjusting the air screw on the side of the TB, i dont think i have the FIFV setup. there are 2 coolant hoses under the TB but no connector to it. ive tested the IAC valve, and it works i can see and here it open and close, and i have tested the tps sensor with my voltmeter. and it read good. and within the past few days i have also notice it makes a different humming noise from the intake and it surges but i dont see a change in the rpms when it does this. i talked to my mechanic which he is also one of my friends, and he says its a good chance that its the throttle body. that i are where the coolant lines goes in need to be cleaned out, and if i cant open it up to clean it, which i cant, then i need to replace the TB.

now the coolant is fine, i havent changed that yet, i have seen any coolant leaks. and i cant see/hear/feel any vaccuum leaks.

the intensity of the lights. they seem fine, they dont change. although the funny thing is me and my dad replaced the headlight connector. and i can swear we wired it right, because the the hedlight, turn on/off fine, and still has high and low beam. but ever since we changed that connector, the high beam light on the dash, comes on a lil bight. its not on fully until i turn on the high beams, but when its in low beams , its dimmed down. kinda weird. and before we changed that connector it didnt do that. i dunno ill tackle that problem later. not unless the headlight is the problem to my surging problem. which sounds funny.

 

No, but does the CEL work? When the ignition key is turn to ON without cranking the engine, the CEL should light for 2 seconds and then turn OFF.

Two coolant hoses should be attached to the IACV. Are you saying that these hoses are disconnected?

You should properly bleed the cooling system of air bubbles. When the engine is cool and OFF, push the heater lever to max, open the radiator cap, and fill the radiator to the top with coolant. Also top off the reservoir. Put the radiator cap back on loosely - don't tighten. Start your engine and let it idle until the radiator fan turns ON at least twice. Turn engine OFF. Again top off radiator and reservoir if necessary. Place radiator cap on tightly. The system is now bled.

Test for intake air or vacuum leaks by spraying carburetor cleaner around the throttle body, intake manifold, and vacuum hoses. If the engine surges or bogs, you may have a leak.

 

yes the check engine light does work. the coolant hoses are hooked up and they do not hook up to the iac valve. the iac valve is hooked to the back of the intake maniflod right after the TB. ill bleed the coolant has soon as it stops raining outside.

 

i'm having the same exact problem as of today, it started after I did a radiator flush and bleed earlier today. thing is i know I need a new iacv before that and ordered one, was gonna pick it up tomorrow. Not sure if iacv is problem or is there still air in radiator as mentioned? Well the dash lights surge as well as my headlights and the mph gauge fluctuated, dropped back to 0, then stopped moving completely. Doesn't surge when at complete stop though, only when I press gas. and my cel light came on a few months ago after i changed the upper o2 sensor a few months before that. I'm gonna try to get the replacement iacv installed tomorrow and let you know of any changes. Maybe it will help you if you haven't gotten your problem resolved yet.

 

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