When you turn the ignition key to ON(II), does the CEL remain ON? If so, when you attempt to retrieve the CEL code from the ECU (see link in my signature), does the CEL still just remain ON without blinking?

Did you test voltages from the MAP sensor connector as I described in post #26?

Have you cleaned and tightened the important ground wire attached to the thermostat housing?

 

We differ on which terminals of the MAP sensor connector should be hot versus ground. My recommendations were based on information in the 92 Civic service manual, which I interpreted as indicating that the two outer terminals of the 3P MAP sensor connector are hot while the middle terminal is ground (see see voltage tests in diagrams below).

Is my interpretation of these tests wrong? Is the 95 Civic MAP sensor different for the 92 Civic? Is 95HonCivic's reading of voltage at the middle terminal expected or does it indicate a problem?

 

Based on my interpretation of information provided in the service manual diagrams, you should measure no voltage between the middle terminal (center pin) of the MAP sensor connector and the battery ground wire. To verify, do the same voltage test, except use as ground the wire attached to the thermostat housing (this wire grounds the ECU). If you still measure voltage, then there must be a short circuit of some hot wire with the middle terminal ground wire running between the MAP sensor and ECU. Alternatively, the ECU has a short circuit.

 

I have 9 volts that go through when i touch the center pin and then the ground on the therm housing.. Looking for a ECU locally.. Thanks for all the help !!

 

Before you replace the ECU, test whether the middle ground wire has shorted to a hot wire. In this case, the ECU might be fine.

You should also test whether the respective ground pin of the ECU also has 9V to ground. If so, the ECU is bad.

What voltage to ground do you measure from the right and left terminal of connector to the MAP sensor?

 

Check that all the grounded pins on the ECU are near zero volts to battery ground with the key on. Then disconnect the battery, unplug the ECU, reconnect the battery and turn the key on. You should have zero volts at the sensors. This will (mostly) confirm that it was the ECU feeding the abnormally high voltage to them and not a short.

 

Thanks I will work on this probably more tomorrow.. THANK YOU guys for the extra tests!!

 

Well this car has been sitting for as long as this thread has..... I got a ECU today and swapped it out. Still nothing........ I am thinking at this point I must of missed something.... Does anyone know how to check the ignition to make sure that is working properly. I recieved a PM a long while ago about someone explain the same type of issue but they would jiggle the key and it would work from time to time. This would make sence for me since the last time I heard the fuel pump work i was snaping the key back and forth. Now I just get the engine to turn over and nothing more... Again thanks for the previous tips and help!!