As you were reassembling the bakes, did you notice whether the star adjuster bolt could spin freely inside the clevises? This self-adjust mechanism should be cleaned and lubricated prior to reinstalling. Your brakes won't self adjust if the adjuster bolt is seized.

 

Did you lose fluid through the wheel cylinder while disassembling and reassembling the rear brakes. If so, some air may have entered the system. Below shows how to bleed the system. Here is the bleed tool that I use.

 

LMFAO.... OSHA approved vacuum to remove brake dust....LOL ive always done the HOLD YOUR BREATH.... BRUSH and then WALK AWAY till dust settles and once its mostly brushed then i bust out the air gun for a quick spray.

 

These comments are an even stronger reason to follow the instructions in the diagram.

 

i wasnt saying to breath in the dust.... im saying.... who has a OSHA approved vacuum laying around?

just dont breath it in, simply hold your breath and walk away for a min.

 

The wheel cylinder did came loose several times while getting the brake shoe in. That was one of the many b***** part of this replacement. So you guys are right. I will have to bleed the damn thing.

 

Is there an alternate way to bleed brakes? Brake bleeding screw won't come off even after soaking in PB blaster and WD-40.

i did pedal it several times and the pedal is bit firmer. I checked the braking by rotating the drums by hand and having someone applied the brakes to see it stops. It does stop it.

What are my options?

 

The bleeding screw should come off very easily. Shouldn't require more than a strong push with a wrench.

You can use a vacuum bleeder or ... gravity bleeder, I think it's called... but either way that screw has to come off to allow the system to drain.

 

Those screws can get hopelessly rusted. Put a good 6 point 1/4 inch drive 8mm socket on it and try to break it loose. If the screw breaks off, you'll need to replace the wheel cylinder. Then you hope that the line will come off....

Again though if you didn't open the lines there should be no need to bleed. You want to tighten up the adjuster so the shoes almost touch the drum when brakes are not applied. When the shoes are properly adjusted, the hand brake should stop before it goes all the way up.

 

I tried everything but the bleeder screw won't come off... I pushed the brakes several times to see if self adjust but when engine is off, the pedal is relatively hard to push - sort of resistance when you apply brakes but when I start the car, there is no pressure .. It just pushes in ... Any options at this stage?

mk378 - From you post, will replacing wheel cylinder help? What's the process to detach that besides the two bolts?