Rear drum brakes - reassemble
Let's review--
Did you pre-set the adjuster as far as possible so the shoes drag on the drum as you put it on?
Does the hand brake (parking brake, emergency brake, whatever you want to call it) work?
To remove wheel cylinder, disconnect the line and remove the two bolts. I don't think you have to take the shoes off. Have the new cylinder ready to go in immediately so all your brake fluid doesn't run out.
Did you pre-set the adjuster as far as possible so the shoes drag on the drum as you put it on?
Does the hand brake (parking brake, emergency brake, whatever you want to call it) work?
To remove wheel cylinder, disconnect the line and remove the two bolts. I don't think you have to take the shoes off. Have the new cylinder ready to go in immediately so all your brake fluid doesn't run out.
Yes the hand brake does work. The adjuster is not in as far as possible but few threads away - 2-4 mm may be. I tried to put in at the same spot as it was when i took it out - wish i had taken a photograph.
I gave a shot to try to unbolt the brake fluid line & wheel cyl bolts but all of them are rusted and jammed. I have soaked them in WD-40 and PB blaster .. I will soak it every 2 hours for @4-5 times before i give it another try tomorrow.
This is turning out to be a real nightmare. Hope i won't have to tow this to local shop who will charge me for the entire brake job because of the stuck bleeding screw.
I wish by pedalling this multiple times, i can get the air out but i am worried about damn master cylinder or some other damn components because of multiple pedalling.
Any other ideas to take the bleeding screw out?
I gave a shot to try to unbolt the brake fluid line & wheel cyl bolts but all of them are rusted and jammed. I have soaked them in WD-40 and PB blaster .. I will soak it every 2 hours for @4-5 times before i give it another try tomorrow.
This is turning out to be a real nightmare. Hope i won't have to tow this to local shop who will charge me for the entire brake job because of the stuck bleeding screw.
I wish by pedalling this multiple times, i can get the air out but i am worried about damn master cylinder or some other damn components because of multiple pedalling.
Any other ideas to take the bleeding screw out?
Use a line wrench on the line fitting, an end wrench is almost certain to slip. A line wrench (tubing wrench, flare-nut wrench, etc.) is a 6 point box end with part of the box cut out so you can fit it over the line.
Quick update - Today i opened the rear drums and asked a friend to pedal the brakes to see if there is any motion on wheel cylinder. To my surprise the wheel cylinder was not moving et all - i was expecting it to expand when pedal is pushed and contract when pedal is released. What should i normally see when pedalling in and out [with drums out] ?
By the way the star adjuster - it turns out that it has to be a magic spot for drums to slide in. If it's too tight or loose, drums won't slide in. I tried experimenting to tight/loose and pedal to see if wheel cylinder was moving.
By the way the star adjuster - it turns out that it has to be a magic spot for drums to slide in. If it's too tight or loose, drums won't slide in. I tried experimenting to tight/loose and pedal to see if wheel cylinder was moving.
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BuckHijo
Suspension, Brakes, Tires & Wheels
3
May 26, 2008 07:57 PM
adjustment, brake, brakes, civic, diy, drum, dx, ek, honda, procedures, rear, reassemble, reassembling, remove, shoes




