I like the filter wrenches that fit exactly on the top like a cap then you put a ratchet in the square hole in the center. But now since the filter is already mangled about the only option you have left is a strap type wrench. Apply it right around the base where the crimp is. Or like Maachan said, use a screwdriver or chisel to dig into the side of the crimp area then hammer on the end of the tool to rotate the filter (counterclockwise!) If the filter wasn't overtightened in the first place it's usually possible to remove them by hand, which leads to the next point -- never ever use a wrench to put a new filter on.

Compression tester is used to test compression. It is a device with a hose you connect to the spark plug hole (after taking the plugs out of course) and it has a gauge to see how much pressure the piston builds up when you crank the engine. Compression is essential to get the fuel/air mixture to a state where it will ignite when the spark plug fires. If there is a mechanical problem such as a broken valve or severely worn piston rings, the cylinder will show low or no compression.

 

Sorry that you busted the filter that way. The filter canister material is thin and does not have enough meat to hold the screw driver if you poke it through. The screw driver or chisel should be used on the base of the filter where it's thickest. And use a mallet to strike the driver in the direction of CCW. If you want to do it like that,,,,. which I don't recommend,,,. At this point, you may need to destroy the filter and remove element so that you can get positive grip on the base metal of the filter. It will be messy but I would go that route as as last resort.

To check cylinder compression you would need a compression gauge. If you plan continue to work on cars, it is a must tool to have.

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Well, someone beat me to it. I'm a slow typist.

 

Okay thanks guys the weasel **** and screw driver got it off(going counter clock wise lol) anywho new oil is in and it sounds better but still no start i took a video of what it sounds like heres the url http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OMHln-34UE



Do you think it could be the starter?

 

The sound is not so good. It could be main bearings gone bad. Remove all spark plugs and see if you can turn the crank by hand tool.

Also, you can remove the starter motor and have visual inspection. You could hot wire the thing and hear the sound to see if it is it.

 

Just to make sure this is what im trying to move? it wouldnt move either way using the 12 nut on it.

went to auto zone and had the starter checked they said it was good.

 

No. You don't want turn that. It is a cam gear bolt.

 

What you want turn is crankshaft which is going to turn the cam anyways, but crank pulley bolt is secured with a lot more torque and is with bigger hex, like 17 or 19.

You can gain access to the crankshaft pulley by removing left front tire. You should be able to turn it with a 3/8" breaker bar, or regular length 3/8" ratchet if you are strong. If it was me, I will have long extension connected out enough to clear the body supported by floor jack and use 1/2" breaker bar for effortless turn.

Anyways, you should be able to turn with some drag but not with grinding sound.

 

Have the key off and transmission in neutral when trying to turn the engine by hand. Turn crank pulley counterclockwise, that is the way it normally turns. If it won't move, take all the belts off (alternator, etc) and try again. If it still won't move, remove the spark plugs and try again.

 

Okay so i did that and its still making the same noise all the belts are moving just really freaking slow should i lube it up? I'm lost

 

So, what you are saying is that you still hear a noise while you are turning the crankshaft by hand tool. ?? If that is the case, you need to remove the engine, perform tear down and rebuilt/overhaul.