Sitting for a year no start
It doesn't look as bad as it did before here's some pictures i hope its in focus.
Also is this a good deal for a gasket i saw the web site in the general talk part of the forum supposed to be 15% off. http://fcpimport.com/products/acura-...civic-035-1971
Can i check to see if the rods are bent with the block still mounted on the car?
Also is this a good deal for a gasket i saw the web site in the general talk part of the forum supposed to be 15% off. http://fcpimport.com/products/acura-...civic-035-1971
Can i check to see if the rods are bent with the block still mounted on the car?
Last edited by RedSno; Dec 15, 2010 at 01:17 PM.
It's kind of hard to say but it seems like some area of cam area has murky oil residue aside from the white stuff. As you are thinking already, so there is no point of me saying here, but new head gasket is in order along with some other parts, like all the belts and seals. I would get a whole head gasket kit, not only the head gasket. And it shall be good enough for your turbo set up as well. I just cant figure out why it was making metalic sound as it was cranked over.
Connecting rods must be removed for Popper inspection for bend as well as wist. And you'll need to have special fixture for that inspection.
I had done an overhaul on Mitsubishi turbo engine a long x2 time ago. I had sent all parts to a local engine shop for inspection and matching parts. All I did that time was re-build that engine.
Good luck,,,
Connecting rods must be removed for Popper inspection for bend as well as wist. And you'll need to have special fixture for that inspection.
I had done an overhaul on Mitsubishi turbo engine a long x2 time ago. I had sent all parts to a local engine shop for inspection and matching parts. All I did that time was re-build that engine.
Good luck,,,
Last edited by maachan513; Dec 15, 2010 at 06:10 PM.
Cracks are usually not that easy to see with naked eyes. Most of times, I need to perform dye-penetrant inspection or other types of inspection on things I work with (aircraft engines).
There is something wrong with #1 cylinder I can see, though. It seems like it is having way too much of blow by, Compression rings are not making contact with cylinder wall.
There is something wrong with #1 cylinder I can see, though. It seems like it is having way too much of blow by, Compression rings are not making contact with cylinder wall.
Your block would have to come off of the car and sent out to a engine rebuild shop for inspection and honing job, at least. You will need new sets of rings among other parts. There will be a lot more work would be required, done on the engine. It's better for you to call your local engine shop and seek their advise.
Last edited by maachan513; Dec 27, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
Well i changed the HG to see if the coolant would stop mixing with the oil and it still did so a guy is selling a d16z6 block with a y8 head 130k for 200$ im assuming i can just swap it out and it should work right? also i would be using my d16y8 trans. i have already, along with the turbo and ecu setup. here's some pics of the engine bay i cleaned it up and sprayed the valve cover.
Swapping engines to this and that is something I have no knowledge of. I assume it is less expensive than doing the work on existing engine. A lot quicker and easier way as well, provided the new engine you are going to install does not come with any problem just as your first engine had. Doing it quicker and easier sometimes contribute less to your experience/memory bank.
Valve cover looks good, though, green is not my favorite color.
Good luck.
Valve cover looks good, though, green is not my favorite color.
Good luck.
Thanks that guy bailed on me but a local shop has a d16y8 block for 170$ im going to get right now so hopefully its all plug n play
i think ima spray the new valve cover gold anywho i guess ill make a project thread now lolz
i think ima spray the new valve cover gold anywho i guess ill make a project thread now lolz


