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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #41  
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Okay so i'm in the middle of the swap and am moving everything from the old block to the new one i dont know what this is called but it moves all the belts i need to know how to take it off. When i move it, it cranks the motor(or i can see the pistons moving up and down) it wont let me upload pics right now but its on the right side of the motor. Sorry for the lack of terminology.
 
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #42  
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Crank pulley?

The bolt will be really tight, but it is conventional threads (turn counterclockwise to loosen). Best to use an impact wrench on it. Be careful not to lose the little steel key as you slide the pulley off after getting the bolt out.
 
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #43  
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Exactly when i searched it on the internet it looked like they were using a tool to keep it from cranking the motor while removing the bolt do you know what its called? I don't have a impact wrench will that tool work with a 100 pound torque wrench?
 
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:41 AM
  #44  
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The tool to hold pulley can be rented from Auto Zone or other parts store I hear.

You don't want use torque wrench for loosening bolts and nuts even if they fit. You need to use breaker bars for that.
 

Last edited by maachan513; Jan 5, 2011 at 06:51 PM. Reason: typo
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #45  
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I think the torque spec is 170 ft-lb so it's going to be hard to turn. With the engine out of the car you might be able to jam something in the flywheel bolts to stop the crank or use the rope in the cylinder trick commonly used on motorcycles. Really, swapping engines is a lot easier with an impact gun.
 
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #46  
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If you were to use the rope trick, make sure that cylinder is on the compression stroke, otherwise you may damage valve(s).
 
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:34 AM
  #47  
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okay i got off the pulley by heating it and a breaker bar....i rebuilt it all on the new motor and its in, i tried to start it today and it was a fail...it didnt sound bad except there was a wierd noise coming from the fuel rail like a electric heater. im positive i built it back the same way it was before...i have a stock fuel rail from the new motor that im going to try to put in tomorrow to see if it does the same thing any help is appreciated im about to just blow this car up! just kidding but its driving me crazy
 
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #48  
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Okay so i forgot to do the timing which is done and it starts now. however the turbo oil gasket blew and was shooting oil everywhere so i got some high temp honda bond and made a new gasket its curing right now hopefully that will be good enough but when the car was on it was idling @ 3k if i retard the timing on the distributor will that help the idle any? i have already cleaned out the iacv so yeah is there any other way to adjust the idle speed? In my other civic(93dx) there is a fitv that i cleaned and it idled way better however i cant find it on this car so im assuming it doesnt have one?
 
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 05:18 AM
  #49  
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Did you hook up all the vacuum hoses? Air leaking into the intake system anywhere after the throttle body will make it idle high. Also be sure the throttle plate closes fully and the cable is slack when no one is pressing the gas pedal.
 
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #50  
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okay so the throttle cable was tucked too hard but now i have a whole new set of problems the car is idling @ 1k but when ever i give it gas and let go of the throttle the car dies also it was over heating there was air in the line but i tightened the bracket and it stopped leaking however it wont even turn over anymore


When i turn the key i only hear the fuel pump priming so im guessing i fried my starter. But why would it die when i hit the gas?
 

Last edited by RedSno; Jan 10, 2011 at 09:55 AM. Reason: Cause



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