Squeakin' and Creakin' Clutch
#21
does the clutch line have fluid in it?
looks like it is just a matter of undoing some screws and having the grease on hand.
thinking of doing this I can notice the squeaking a lot when I am at the drive through at the bank or mcdonalds.
the clutch works fine and runs great but just sqeaky.
#22
was this hard?
does the clutch line have fluid in it?
looks like it is just a matter of undoing some screws and having the grease on hand.
thinking of doing this I can notice the squeaking a lot when I am at the drive through at the bank or mcdonalds.
the clutch works fine and runs great but just sqeaky.
does the clutch line have fluid in it?
looks like it is just a matter of undoing some screws and having the grease on hand.
thinking of doing this I can notice the squeaking a lot when I am at the drive through at the bank or mcdonalds.
the clutch works fine and runs great but just sqeaky.
on the front of your transmission is a rubber boot covering part of your slave cylinder. You need to pull back that boot, and then underneath that is another smaller boot. Pull that one back too. Grease underneath the smaller boot really good. Then put the small boot back on and grease good underneath the bigger boot, where the slave cylinder meets the clutch fork. Then put that boot back on, and go work the clutch. Then do it all over again to get rid of any noise that's still there.
If after you try this a few times and there's still noise, I recommend flushing your clutch lines with new fluid. You'll need a bottle of DOT4 (because you don't know which DOT is in there now, and DOT4 can mix with DOT3 and DOT4) Brake Fluid.
To do this, you attach some kind of tubing to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, (or I guess if you don't mind the mess you can just leave the bleeder screw without tubing), and then run the tubing to a container of some sort. Have someone continuously pump the clutch while you keep adding fluid to the clutch reservoir, trying to keep the reservoir somewhat full. Whenever the fluid coming from the bleeder screw is the new color, pump a few more times and then tighten the bleeder screw (NOT TOO TIGHT, it WILL break). Then fill the reservoir to the MAX marking and put the lid on. You now have new clutch fluid.
#23
Rather than start a new thread...
I'm going to be greasing the slave cylinder and the ball that contacts the fork, I noticed that there's a split in the boot on the side facing the rad and directly in front of the fork. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there; but having a split in a boot doesn't seem like a great idea...
I'm going to be greasing the slave cylinder and the ball that contacts the fork, I noticed that there's a split in the boot on the side facing the rad and directly in front of the fork. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there; but having a split in a boot doesn't seem like a great idea...
#24
Rather than start a new thread...
I'm going to be greasing the slave cylinder and the ball that contacts the fork, I noticed that there's a split in the boot on the side facing the rad and directly in front of the fork. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there; but having a split in a boot doesn't seem like a great idea...
I'm going to be greasing the slave cylinder and the ball that contacts the fork, I noticed that there's a split in the boot on the side facing the rad and directly in front of the fork. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there; but having a split in a boot doesn't seem like a great idea...
i'd replace the boot
#27
Yeah, the big boot, it's a very linear spit, with thicker rubber along it's edges. Almost wondering if it's for easier access to the ball
Seems pretty pointless though, it's easy enough to pull the boot back.
Seems pretty pointless though, it's easy enough to pull the boot back.
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