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Squeakin' and Creakin' Clutch

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  #21  
Old 09-17-2008, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by trustdestruction
Success!
Greased it up as instructed by RonJ, and the noise went away.

Advice to anyone attempting this:
It takes quite a bit of grease to get the noise to go away completely.
was this hard?

does the clutch line have fluid in it?

looks like it is just a matter of undoing some screws and having the grease on hand.

thinking of doing this I can notice the squeaking a lot when I am at the drive through at the bank or mcdonalds.

the clutch works fine and runs great but just sqeaky.
 
  #22  
Old 09-17-2008, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jsusanka
was this hard?

does the clutch line have fluid in it?

looks like it is just a matter of undoing some screws and having the grease on hand.

thinking of doing this I can notice the squeaking a lot when I am at the drive through at the bank or mcdonalds.

the clutch works fine and runs great but just sqeaky.
nah it's easy. no screws involved. the clutch line has fluid in it, but you don't need to mess with that.
on the front of your transmission is a rubber boot covering part of your slave cylinder. You need to pull back that boot, and then underneath that is another smaller boot. Pull that one back too. Grease underneath the smaller boot really good. Then put the small boot back on and grease good underneath the bigger boot, where the slave cylinder meets the clutch fork. Then put that boot back on, and go work the clutch. Then do it all over again to get rid of any noise that's still there.

If after you try this a few times and there's still noise, I recommend flushing your clutch lines with new fluid. You'll need a bottle of DOT4 (because you don't know which DOT is in there now, and DOT4 can mix with DOT3 and DOT4) Brake Fluid.
To do this, you attach some kind of tubing to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, (or I guess if you don't mind the mess you can just leave the bleeder screw without tubing), and then run the tubing to a container of some sort. Have someone continuously pump the clutch while you keep adding fluid to the clutch reservoir, trying to keep the reservoir somewhat full. Whenever the fluid coming from the bleeder screw is the new color, pump a few more times and then tighten the bleeder screw (NOT TOO TIGHT, it WILL break). Then fill the reservoir to the MAX marking and put the lid on. You now have new clutch fluid.
 
  #23  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:03 PM
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Rather than start a new thread...

I'm going to be greasing the slave cylinder and the ball that contacts the fork, I noticed that there's a split in the boot on the side facing the rad and directly in front of the fork. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there; but having a split in a boot doesn't seem like a great idea...
 
  #24  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mudferret
Rather than start a new thread...

I'm going to be greasing the slave cylinder and the ball that contacts the fork, I noticed that there's a split in the boot on the side facing the rad and directly in front of the fork. Almost looks like it's supposed to be there; but having a split in a boot doesn't seem like a great idea...
nope, not suppose to be split
i'd replace the boot
 
  #25  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:15 PM
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Figured as much. I didn't want to tug on the boot too hard, but any idea how the end that seals against the trans is held on? Simply pressed into place?
 
  #26  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:16 PM
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yea it's pressed into place
i was actually talking about the other boot (underneath the main boot), i can't remember if that big one's suppose to be split or not.
 
  #27  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:20 PM
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Yeah, the big boot, it's a very linear spit, with thicker rubber along it's edges. Almost wondering if it's for easier access to the ball

Seems pretty pointless though, it's easy enough to pull the boot back.
 
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