haha i knew i wouldn't get away without some sort of sh*t caught from somebody. I've been untuned a long time and haven't been able to drive my car hardly at all, but its nice now, even though if anybody remembers my recent radiator thread, it turns out it's my thermostat and not just a relay, with the thermostat working sometimes and not others. Ugh.

 

Thermostats are easy to replace, I did mine in about half hour. Just drain the coolant using the drain on the bottom of the rad, pull the hose off, pull off the two bolts holding the rad housing (10mm I think), then just pull it out and reverse the steps. Then do a coolant bleed and ur good to go. Thermostats are only about 10 bucks so it wont set you back too much.

 

o rly. weekend project, thanks

 

yessssssss, all the BOV needed was a weaker spring, BOV is all set, thing sounds like a cannon

now, can someone help me with this? https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...t=73964&page=4

 

Flip, regarding the potential oil leak from the front main seal or the cam seal, be sure to carefully rule out a leak from the valve cover or the oil pan before you remove the dreaded crank pulley bolt.

In addition, what makes you believe your IACV is bad?

 

I cant believe no one has asked this yet unless I just missed it somewhere............

What are you tuned with?

 

Also wondering what you tuned with. And I'd be careful where you buy your IACV at. I got 2 off ebay that were faulty when I had my EG hatch.

 

yeah i'm super iffy about getting the IACV off ebay, especially with the 2-wire and 3-wire confusion that goes along with my OBD1 conversion. I might just have a local shop order it, even though its gonna be like $160. We'll see, radiator problems first lol

My tuner agrees the IACV is bad, my IACV gave me a CEL right after my very first turbo install, i got it disabled on a new basemap, btu even with it disabled it was still acting as though it was stuck open, my idle just kept going up and down and up and down. I unplugged the harness from the IACV and my idle was still acting exactly the same it was with the harness plugged in and the IACV disabled on the ECU (even with no signal to IACV), and my tuner did this as well, and he agreed that my IACV is stuck open and i either need to open it up and clean it good, or just buy a new one.

I'm tuned on Crome on a p06 by www.cornbredtuning.com out of West Lafayette, IN. I got to see Andy's built/boosted LS in real life (he's the one that tuned me), daaaaaaaaaamn

 

Flip, try this:
If you block the IACV port in the throttle body with your finger, does this prevent the high hunting idle or have no effect? If the latter is true, then you should search for an intake air or vacuum leak.

 

I would highly recommend changing over to hondata or even Neptune if you ever go to get dyno tune.

Crome is ok (I am currently using it myself but only til I get s300 for my turbo build) but I just wouldnt trust my engine with a tuned map out of crome compared to the partial throttle tuning you can get from the s300, even s200 has better partial throttle tuning then crome.

It should do you fine for now but I just wanted to make the recommendation in case you decided to change in the future.