Generation of an '04 Si hatchback?
#1
Generation of an '04 Si hatchback?
What generation is my newly acquired '04 Si hatchback?
What I really need to know is what width/height tire can I get away with if I stay with the standard 16" alloy rims and do not plan to lower the car for a while. There is little doubt this question has been answered but reading the sticky posts avails little because I don't know my generation.
The car needs a new set of tires so I thought I would like wider tires (presumably increasing spin and cornering performance as well as visual appeal). These 205/55's spin too easily.
I haven't found the rim width published either...that piece of information would really help too.
I'm not a racer or a tuner, I just like the power. I'm not likely to be too worried about small performance compromises. My first thought is something like 245/50's for a fairly comfortable ride but I worry about the height/width. Frankly my inclination is to increase the overall diameter of the tires to help gear it up just smidge. JMHO, the car is geared slightly too low.
All info appreciated, opinions too.
Thanks in advance,
b.line
What I really need to know is what width/height tire can I get away with if I stay with the standard 16" alloy rims and do not plan to lower the car for a while. There is little doubt this question has been answered but reading the sticky posts avails little because I don't know my generation.
The car needs a new set of tires so I thought I would like wider tires (presumably increasing spin and cornering performance as well as visual appeal). These 205/55's spin too easily.
I haven't found the rim width published either...that piece of information would really help too.
I'm not a racer or a tuner, I just like the power. I'm not likely to be too worried about small performance compromises. My first thought is something like 245/50's for a fairly comfortable ride but I worry about the height/width. Frankly my inclination is to increase the overall diameter of the tires to help gear it up just smidge. JMHO, the car is geared slightly too low.
All info appreciated, opinions too.
Thanks in advance,
b.line
#2
It would be a 7th generation civic. For the wheel width, it should be stamped the back of one of the spokes, but I'm not promising anything. Once you figure out the width (I'm thinking given that the stock size is 205/55, it's probably a 7" wide wheel), we can figure out how wide you can safely go.
Also, I think the wheelspin probably has more to do with the brand/model of tire and the way you're launching than it does the tire size.
Also, increasing overall wheel diameter will effectively be the same as putting in a numerically lower final drive; acceleration will go down and top speed will go up. A smaller overall diameter wheel is the opposite. If you're trying to lessen the wheelspin, you're right in wanting a larger diameter tire size, but I still think getting stickier tires in the stock size would be the best option as it doesn't mess with your speedometer's accuracy.
Also, I think the wheelspin probably has more to do with the brand/model of tire and the way you're launching than it does the tire size.
Also, increasing overall wheel diameter will effectively be the same as putting in a numerically lower final drive; acceleration will go down and top speed will go up. A smaller overall diameter wheel is the opposite. If you're trying to lessen the wheelspin, you're right in wanting a larger diameter tire size, but I still think getting stickier tires in the stock size would be the best option as it doesn't mess with your speedometer's accuracy.
Last edited by reaper2022; 08-25-2009 at 03:16 PM.
#3
generation, wheel/tire size, etc.
OK...thanks for the info.
When in doubt read the Owner's Manual carefully...16x6.5 J. Don't really know what the J stands for.
So as I appreciate it, I need to replace with equal or higher load/speed rating, in this case - 89V, and stay near the rim width for best handling.
As to height, the -3% speedometer accuracy loss might be worth the slight gearing effect. I have it in my head that I could see a slight increase in fuel economy with a taller tire given that the weight differential is relatively small (2 lbs) between the 205/55's and the (now) 225/55's, assuming there is an inch of headroom in the wheel well - my original concern - and I believe there is.
The 225/55's are 25.7" tall, 23 lbs unmounted, 7.8" treadwidth
The 205/55's are 24.8" tall, 21 lbs unmounted, 6.7" treadwidth
So I think we answered that question...do you agree?
The 245/50 was too wide for my rim. I had tried a rough physical measurement and come up with 7"...which was WRONG.
There is also a 5 lb differential per tire (likely too much) and zero height increase over the 225/55.
Thanks for the help.
Since I have garnered the attention of the esteemed moderator, I shall try your patience a little further.
I looked up the engine model number - K20A3 - a K-series. If this were your car and you wanted to kick it up a notch (without fear of affecting longevity or market value too much) what mods would you accomplish first?
I have had a healthy smattering of sports cars over the years but this is my first FWD or rice-burner (as one of my friends called it after I spanked his semi-mod Miata). Frankly, it feels a little nose heavy but I have not gotten used to the FWD yet. I am mostly accustomed to a torque-ier motor. The car is pretty sporty if you keep it wound up.
Once again, thanks for your input.
b.line
When in doubt read the Owner's Manual carefully...16x6.5 J. Don't really know what the J stands for.
So as I appreciate it, I need to replace with equal or higher load/speed rating, in this case - 89V, and stay near the rim width for best handling.
As to height, the -3% speedometer accuracy loss might be worth the slight gearing effect. I have it in my head that I could see a slight increase in fuel economy with a taller tire given that the weight differential is relatively small (2 lbs) between the 205/55's and the (now) 225/55's, assuming there is an inch of headroom in the wheel well - my original concern - and I believe there is.
The 225/55's are 25.7" tall, 23 lbs unmounted, 7.8" treadwidth
The 205/55's are 24.8" tall, 21 lbs unmounted, 6.7" treadwidth
So I think we answered that question...do you agree?
The 245/50 was too wide for my rim. I had tried a rough physical measurement and come up with 7"...which was WRONG.
There is also a 5 lb differential per tire (likely too much) and zero height increase over the 225/55.
Thanks for the help.
Since I have garnered the attention of the esteemed moderator, I shall try your patience a little further.
I looked up the engine model number - K20A3 - a K-series. If this were your car and you wanted to kick it up a notch (without fear of affecting longevity or market value too much) what mods would you accomplish first?
I have had a healthy smattering of sports cars over the years but this is my first FWD or rice-burner (as one of my friends called it after I spanked his semi-mod Miata). Frankly, it feels a little nose heavy but I have not gotten used to the FWD yet. I am mostly accustomed to a torque-ier motor. The car is pretty sporty if you keep it wound up.
Once again, thanks for your input.
b.line
#5
Yeah, your friend's miata is technically a rice burner also.
Anyway, here's what I came up with:
225/55-16 - ~1" taller than the stock 205/55, 3/4" wider section width (note that section width and tread width are not necessarily the same)
235/50-16 - ~.5" taller than stock, 1.25" wider than stock
I'd say if you want width over height, go with the 235's. If you want height more than width, go with the 225. And yes, the minimum recommended wheel width for 245's is 7", so I wouldn't recommend trying to fit it on the wheel (yes, it will technically fit).
As far as mods, it really depends on how much you want to spend; k20's are more expensive than most honda motors to modify, but I'd say a cold-air intake, race header (note that this deletes your cat, so if you live in an area with emissions inspections, I wouldn't recommend it), exhaust, and a hondata k-pro chip (this would require either sending hondata your ecu or buying a new one off them for an extra $600). The intake, header, and exhaust shouldn't be too expensive, but the k-pro will set you back just under $1k if you send in your ecu, and $1500 if you opt to buy a new one.
Also, you're right about the weight, especially given that you're saving weight on the edge of the wheel, but I honestly think any gains will be negligible.
As far as the tires fitting, I'm sure they'll fit at stock height. When it comes to lowering the car, they may or may not rub; it mostly depends on if you keep a little bit of negative camber and how much you lower the car.
Anyway, here's what I came up with:
225/55-16 - ~1" taller than the stock 205/55, 3/4" wider section width (note that section width and tread width are not necessarily the same)
235/50-16 - ~.5" taller than stock, 1.25" wider than stock
I'd say if you want width over height, go with the 235's. If you want height more than width, go with the 225. And yes, the minimum recommended wheel width for 245's is 7", so I wouldn't recommend trying to fit it on the wheel (yes, it will technically fit).
As far as mods, it really depends on how much you want to spend; k20's are more expensive than most honda motors to modify, but I'd say a cold-air intake, race header (note that this deletes your cat, so if you live in an area with emissions inspections, I wouldn't recommend it), exhaust, and a hondata k-pro chip (this would require either sending hondata your ecu or buying a new one off them for an extra $600). The intake, header, and exhaust shouldn't be too expensive, but the k-pro will set you back just under $1k if you send in your ecu, and $1500 if you opt to buy a new one.
Also, you're right about the weight, especially given that you're saving weight on the edge of the wheel, but I honestly think any gains will be negligible.
As far as the tires fitting, I'm sure they'll fit at stock height. When it comes to lowering the car, they may or may not rub; it mostly depends on if you keep a little bit of negative camber and how much you lower the car.
#6
I wouldn't go wider than 215mm treadwidth. Anything above that really seems overkill and could cost you some of your turning radius. I don't know about you, but DD'ing my car, I end up using my full turning radius quite a bit, such as when making a U-turn or occasionally while parallel parking if it's a really tight fit (as in turning the wheel to full lock).
Last edited by trustdestruction; 08-26-2009 at 04:46 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post