My engine is finally done in the machine shop, and a new clutch is the last thing I need before I get it tuned on the dyno.
I know Exedy is a good brand, but the shop I talked to wanted like $440 for a Stage 2 clutch. Now I am considering some other brands, I'd prefer to stay away from the clutches that engage harshly and chatter, but it needs to hold high 200's, low 300hp.
I was looking at this Dual Friction Centerforce clutch and it looks really good for a decent price. I can get this clutch with the throwout bearing and alignment tool for $330. Do I need the throw out bearing and alignment tool? Without those the clutch is only 270

Product Line: Centerforce Dual Friction Clutches
Part Number: CTF-DF902802
Input Spline Quantity: 20
Input Shaft Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Disc Diameter (in): 8.375 in.
Disc Diameter (mm): 213mm
Disc Material: Organic/Carbon Composite
Disc Style: Sprung hub
Pressure Plate Style: Diaphragm

The clutch that is up to 90 percent better than stock.
Centerforce Dual Friction clutches generate up to a 90 percent increase in holding capacity over stock systems. These clutch-and-disc sets are designed for engines producing high horsepower and big torque outputs. Perfect for 4WD vehicles, all Centerforce clutch systems provide smooth engagement and light pedal pressure, without compromising high performance.

 

I have herd good things about DXD which i think is a subbrand of Exedy. Stage two kevlar clutch $250.

 

I looked around but no one supplies them, i can only find DXD online and the website says $250 for that stage 2 but when you put it in the shopping cart it is 330+$35 to ship to canada=$365.
I have read good things about the centerforce dual friction, any other opinions?

 

First, do you do more racing or more basic stop and go city driving? You have to remember that any of the higher stage clutch systems WILL fail much quicker under normal driving conditions. They are made for quick grab and go fast shifts with no feathering like most people do under normal conditions. That means you pop and release and keep your foot off the clutch pedal.

If you do more racing, than normal driving, a stage 3/4 is great. Stage 2 is about equal time. They are usually used on show type cars that occasionally hit the tracks. Essentially the majority of their non-race time is tied up in travel on major roadways without all the stop and go's. Stage 1 is mostly street driving and little racing. They hold up much longer, but still offer improved performance for racing style shifting. They are used mainly on personal show vehicles that are used daily for everything.

Of course, if you have a '95 with LSD and turbo, I'd assume you get more race time than not. That being the case, I think the Centerforce Dual Friction Stage 2 is a good compromise that would eliminate some of your concerns with a single friction surface type stage two clutch.

And lastly, don't cheap out on the pilot bearing, ever. The alignment tool you might be able to do away with, providing you or your mechanic already has one. But the pilot bearing, you most definitely want to have. It's the bearing the clutch floats on. Regardless of what clutch set you ever get, always get a new matched pilot bearing with it. If for no other reason than almost every clutch manufacturer will void any warranty on their product without it. You should also get the matched set's that include the flywheel, or at least have your flywheel machined. It's another way they default your warranty. And if you've never seen what a defective clutch set can do, then just trust me to know that if it happens, that warranty will save you alot of money.

 

Carbon Kevlar FTW!

 

thanks for all that info dryball
its a daily driver but i plan on hitting the 1/4mile a lot this upcoming summer
im going with the centerforce/