HCF Project Section - Cvcrcr's project/fix-up thread (version 1.1)

Yup, that's right.... version 1.1. Same car, but I have changed what will be happening to it. My previous project build (http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74923) ended abruptly after realizing that boost wasn't for me at the time due to financial reasons etc etc.

I'll do a quick recap (lol... copy and paste) from my old thread about the beginnings of the car.

When I got the car 3/2007, bone stock. Unfortunately, no pics.

Within a month a CAI was installed, and since then, little pieces have been added. Here's the list so far.
7/2007 - OEM style Black Housing Headlights (removed - OEM back on now);
8/25/07 - Citi-Lites (at this time, removed);
10/3/07 - Skunk 2 Short Shifter/Shift Knob;
10/13/07 - DC Sport 4-2-1 Header (removed);
5/4/08 - Crower Stage 2 Camshaft, Supertech Valve Springs and Titanium Valve Spring Retainers, Cometic Head Gasket, ARP Head Bolts, Skunk 2 Intake Manifold (removed), Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket;
12/27/08 - EK Fog lights (No longer installed), Type “R” Grille;
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC00796.jpg
1/8/09 - Apexi World Sport II Cat Back Exhaust
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC00791.jpg
1/22/09 - Chipped P28 ECU w/ Hondata S300;
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC00815.jpg
2/1/09 - Integra LS Front Seats (removed as of 9/16 - went back to the original owner - OEM garbage back in);
2/23/09 - C8 20-way Adjustable Coilovers, Blox Rear Lower Control Arms, Blox Rear Camber Kit
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC00833.jpg
2/26/09 - Pioneer AVIC-F700BT In-dash Navigation
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC00843.jpg

I installed little things such as an AEM UEGO A/F gauge, high flow fuel filter, and a 2.25" high flow cat (aka ebay test pipe).

UEGO
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/AEMUEGO2ndMount.jpg

High flow fuel filter
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC00934.jpg

High Flow Cat. & reason for replacement needed
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Carnagefrom6101.jpg

In June 2009, a bush jumped out in front of me!!! ahhhh!! lol Not really, but it's somewhat of a long story. The passenger fender is/was all wavy, so that needs to be replaced, and the front bumper is gone. Pics of the carnage:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Inabush1.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Aftermath1.jpg

I was able to save the mirror (cosmetically) myself and clean most of the mess up. Unfortunately, the electric motor for the mirror no longer functions. (Pics of the fixing/cleaning are near the last page in the link I posted at the beginning of the post.)

Since then, I have purchased a new set of fenders, and new bumper. Everything is black primer right now. Pics will be up tomorrow.

Things that I want [In no particular order]:

- Exhaust stuff (4-1 header/new donut gasket/new Ebay special cat/new set of gaskets for full exhaust system/black heat wrap)

- Interior stuff (Dual gauge bezel pod/boost gauge/del sol seats/Red stitched shift boot/re-wrap doors & center console)

- Exterior stuff (New taillights/Paint!/wheels [Rota Grids FTW!])

- Engine stuff (Motor mount inserts/new oil pan gasket/Stage 2 Clutch/8-9lb. flywheel/59-60mm TB/Aluminum Radiator/Slim Fan/Cooling Plate)

- Suspension stuff (Rear sway bar/ASR brace[?])

- Stuff for back up use just in case (New SC belt)

Stuff I ordered/have, but not installed:
z6 oil pan (still need honda-bond/gasket)
New OEM Mirrors
OEM headliner to be re-wrapped in a dark gray color
OEM A-pillars which will be painted to match headliner
OEM Side moldings

Obviously, this will be a type of "restoration" project as I am really trying to just have the car look decent....and then some extras. This post will be updated either as soon as I think of other things I want, or as soon as I buy/install something.

As of 7.10.09... this is what the car looks like.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newbumperfender1710.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newbumperfender2710.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newbumperfender5710.jpg

Shockingly, everything lines up almost perfectly. Just a little too big of a gap (about 1mm too big) between the passenger fender and hood.... shouldn't be too hard to correct that. Also, a buddy of mine knows someone who is able to paint all the pieces oem silver at his shop, so I have to meet up with him soon and discuss pricing! More updates when I get some more replacement parts and painting info!

Good to have it restarted. Glad everything still lines up after that mess.

Finally sold my Iphone so I have some cash to buy a set of mirrors. I talked to the guy in Philly who I know and he will be getting me power mirrors that can fold. Not the power retracting JDM ones. I wish I had $200 to blow on power retracting mirrors/switch/relay, but I don't..lol I'll post up some pics of the fitment when I install them over the weekend.

I should be meeting up with someone else on Friday to buy their 60GB Ipod (broken screen) for $30. I guess I have to deal with almost no music for a couple days. lol

Ugh... someone/something doesn't want me to have a perfect/legal/functional front end. Went outside to start up my car in order to take my son over to his school for speech therapy, and noticed a nice 1 1/2 foot long crack in the windshield. The cheapest quote so far I could find is $175 installed.

I post up some pics when I get a chance to.

Pics of the said crack.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/WindshieldCrack171409.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/WindshieldCrack271409.jpg

I should be getting a new windshield within a week or so(~$175). In other news, I ordered a set of Pioneer 6x9's yesterday, and I will be picking up a set of folding mirrors tomorrow!

all that money, you could have boosted. 8-|

I should be getting a new windshield within a week or so(~$175). In other news, I ordered a set of Pioneer 6x9's yesterday, and I will be picking up a set of folding mirrors tomorrow!

$175? isn't that a little much? you should have gone to a junk yard and get one. Then had someone install.

all that money, you could have boosted. 8-|

What money? I had an almost complete turbo, then realized I was being an idiot by putting everything on my credit card, not having a job, being a full time dad (that's right, I have custody, not the mom), turboing a motor with compression issues in cylinder #2 (and with 150,000 miles as well), and pouring money into the motor of a horrible looking (dents, dings, broken bumper) car.

Too many things could go wrong and leave me royally screwed; i.e. blown motor, etc - leaving me with next to nothing and more of a credit card debt buying a new d16. I'd rather drive a slow, reliable car at this time, and not have to worry about my credit card bill. Maybe in the future, I'll swap in a b18c1 or something like that... but only if the right deal comes around at the right time.

$175? isn't that a little much? you should have gone to a junk yard and get one. Then had someone install.

That's actually the cheapest I could find. $175 includes a new windshield, installation, and a warranty for the entire time I own the car. Everyone else wanted at least $300. I didn't think I could get a junked Civic's windshield.... don't you have to cut it out as windshields are held in with some type of glue?

no need for the huffy puffy. welcome to america, the land of the debt.

Ya just cut around the outside of the windshield. Most places will install for like $100.

no need for the huffy puffy. welcome to america, the land of the debt.

lol... trying to set a new trend.

Ya just cut around the outside of the windshield. Most places will install for like $100.

I figure for an extra $75, I'll save myself the hassle of cutting a used windshield out, and let myself rest while a brand new fresh one is installed with a lifetime warranty. hehe

The new fenders obviously don't have any pinstripes, so went ahead and pulled the pinstripes off the car.

That makes sense. Its too bad that you didn't go through with the turbo. BUT it is good to see that people out there are not spending/borrowing the money they don't have and can't pay back.

Well, I went to South Philly to meet this guy who sold me the bumper/fenders to buy a set of folding mirrors. Turns out, his distributor won't have a passenger mirror for 2 weeks, but he did have the driver one with him. I told him to call me in two weeks when the set was available.

Depressed and upset (lol, j/k), I worked up enough energy to go and order my front/rear lip kit, OEM Stanley sidemarkers, and a 20ft spool of 4 gauge wire. Within the next week or so, I will be ordering a new "high flow cat".

Kinda off topic... my bro got a new car. It's a 98 Civic LX sedan (automatic..... I have been trying to get him to learn manual for the past 3 years, and he just continually says "no"). It's about 10,000 times better than his previous junker (94 VW Golf). He has had a sound system just sitting in the garage for the past 2 years. He couldn't put it in the VW as it was a car he was borrowing from our step-dad. So, I went ahead and completely wired up his system/headunit/amp/speakers etc etc today. yay!!!

pics of the 98 civic?

Hey sfazngiants, I'll throw up some pics of his car and his system I installed tomorrow.

Update!!! Ordered my JDM thin side moldings and only paid $125 shipped for them brand new! All I need are the mirrors, and I can meet up with my buddy's friend to discuss painting and prices.

For some reason, now my driver side mirror won't go up or down when trying to adjust it. It just goes left and right.... oh well, replacements for both mirrors will be coming soon.

Edit - Forgot to add that I should be getting my windshield replaced by the end of this week.

Does anyone think that I should wait on the new windshield until I get my car painted, or just do it now as it wont matter?

Hey sfazngiants, I'll throw up some pics of his car and his system I installed tomorrow.

Update!!! Ordered my JDM thin side moldings and only paid $125 shipped for them brand new! All I need are the mirrors, and I can meet up with my buddy's friend to discuss painting and prices.

For some reason, now my driver side mirror won't go up or down when trying to adjust it. It just goes left and right.... oh well, replacements for both mirrors will be coming soon.

Edit - Forgot to add that I should be getting my windshield replaced by the end of this week.

Does anyone think that I should wait on the new windshield until I get my car painted, or just do it now as it wont matter?

wont matter cause its getting tapped off anyways. I would get the windshield installed first too cause who knows they guy installing it could be an idiot and slip or fall or somehting and scratch your new paint job... :(

I would get the windshield installed first too cause who knows they guy installing it could be an idiot and slip or fall or somehting and scratch your new paint job... :(

lol... I was thinking along the same lines croninc, but I was thinking that the guy might f up the windshield while sanding/painting. lol I'll probably have it done on Friday. That's the next day I'll have to myself as my son will be getting picked up by his grandfather for some of the weekend.

*going to take pic of my bro's car now*

As promised....
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Friends%20cars/DSC01295.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Friends%20cars/DSC01296.jpg
^^lol... just relaized that both of my babies are in this pic along with my bro's car. hehe
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Friends%20cars/DSC01298.jpg

It's a 98 Civic LX. He needs a new hood and driver side fender, but I will help him out with that. The motor is stock (except for some sh!tty intake which he wants to revert back to stock), and dirty...we plan on attacking it with some simple green later on today. Here's the system I installed for him.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Friends%20cars/DSC01297.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Friends%20cars/DSC01299.jpg

He will be going to a friend of mine's shop to have the timing belt/water pump/tensioner/valve cover gasket/oil pan & gasket replaced.

Received the 18 feet of 4 gauge wire and my Pioneer 6x9's today! As soon as I got the wire, I went to work snaking it through the car. I ended working for about 6 hours and wired up my entire system! I'll post up some pics tomorrow.

Lip kit should be here on Saturday! Sidemarkers should be here "soon" as the seller states, and the thin side moldings were shipped today! woot woot!

Here are some pics of the work I did yesterday.
Bought a 8'x 2'x 1/2''x board of MDF, cut it and fit it into my trunk. I am planning on cutting a circle out for the sub which will sit into my spare tire area.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/MDFcutandintrunk.jpg

New rear speakers. Some type of Pioneer 4 ways.. I didn't get the model number or care about the model number. lol
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Pioneer4-wayspeakers2.jpg

A quick pic of the amp wired up and working. Do not mind the sh!tty display of wires, I have yet to clean everything up. It's a five channel Alpine amp. The 6'' Bose subwoofer is in the pic as well. But it is a POS. I will be junking it and buying some type of 10" sub to go in there.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Ampisworking.jpg

lol... quick pick of my dashboard puking wires and climate controls... hehe
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Dashboardpuked.jpg

I will be changing a few things up regarding the wiring, and how the amp sits on the rack I made for it, but for the most part, it's done! I'll post up some pics when completed.

How the hell did you remove the center bezel without removing the rest of the plastic's?
Not bad other wise.

^^ lol.. skillz. The climate control bezel has not been bolted in (under the plastic pieces) for the past day or two so I could get to everything easier when working on the install. The wiring will be 100% complete by the end of the day tomorrow, and I'll go ahead and put everything back as it should.

New windshield tomorrow!

wow, lots of work! Gotta ask, though, after all this work are you really saving any money from the turbo project with your new project?

^^ hell yes I am. I ended up spending something along the lines of $2500 for everything regarding the turbo, and I still needed oil lines/gaskets/bunch o' little things. For this new "project", with the body damage fixed up/car painted, I am looking at around $2000.

I do know that it is only $500 cheaper and my car will not be as nearly as fast without turbo, but you have to keep in mind that if I spent that $2500 on a turbo I would still need/want the body work done. Equaling around $4-5k total. I am happy running around with a almost stock set-up. Right now, I am just concerned with having a clean looking car, and not some half painted, fast, banged up car. BTW, I have had the amp I installed and all the wires just sitting around in the garage. I only spent an extra $30 to complete the system with new 6x9's in the rear.

Looky looky at what I got today in the mail...
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/JDMsidemoldings1.jpg
^obviously, that's only half the kit, but you get the idea.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/JDMsidemoldings2.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/JDMsidemoldings3.jpg
mmmmmm....... pure JDM goodness OEM Honda parts straight from Japan.

Edit - Just to add, I feel like that one board of MDF looks awkward in the trunk....I am thinking about buying another board, and cutting it and making just an entirely new trunk "floor" that's 1/2" thick.

Also, I forgot to add that a guy down in Philly has a Cluster from a 2000 Civic SI (with 20,000 miles... but that really doesn't matter) that he is selling for $100. If I have enough cash left over after the windshield is replaced, I might go and pick it up.

Good news - New windshield. 1/2 the time I was driving home, I feel like I didn't even see the windshield in front of me. Clean

Bad news - The painting guy is not able to meet up with my buddy and I. Oh well, I'll probably end up meeting up with him within the next 2 weeks or so.

Lip kit is arriving tomorrow! yay

if you are going to put the sub straight into the floor like that, make sure there is still a sealed enclosure under it. you'll basically just have to build a box that fits into the tire well area and is flush with the rest of the floor.

I thought you left the screws out, because there is no way to just pull that off without removing the rest.

Those side molding looks diff from mine, when i bought mine it came with the double sided tape, i wounder why yours didnt.

If you cant pick that cluster up, could i?

if you are going to put the sub straight into the floor like that, make sure there is still a sealed enclosure under it. you'll basically just have to build a box that fits into the tire well area and is flush with the rest of the floor.

Working on something for that now...

Those side molding looks diff from mine, when i bought mine it came with the double sided tape, i wounder why yours didnt.

If you cant pick that cluster up, could i?

Mine has small strip of double sided tape on bottoms of the longer pieces, but thats it.

The cluster sold already... I called him and he told me it was already gone. You don't like your CTR cluster splat?

Received my lip kit today! Opened everything up, unfolded the lip kit (lol), and let it sit out in the sun for about 2 hours. "Molded" it to shape and mounted it using the self-tapping screws that the lip came with. The front lip fit incredibly well, the rear, was kind of a PITA. Here's how my car looks at the moment.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/FrontLip1.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/FrontLip2.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/RearLip1.jpg

It'll eventually have some double sided tape to help it attach to the bumper, I'll add that on after everything is taken off, painted, then reinstalled. Once my sidemarkers come in and get installed, I'm ready for paint! Time for a new siggy!!!!

How does it feel having a diff color front end?

About that cluster, i love my CTR, its just i started a new hobby....i started collection of clusters, and that price sound nice.

Having a different color front end seems like it would bother me, but it really doesn't. I'm fairly used to it by now. I would rather drive around with a different color front, than having dented fenders and a broken bumper.

What are you planning to do with the clusters? That would be pretty cool if you could have all the gauges faced up (when you complete your collection), basically lay a piece of glass over it all and have it as a coffee table. Bad ass IMO

Yesterday, I received the lip kit via Fedex in the morning. Installed it, and then left the house to get some things done etc etc. When I got home from errands, I found these in my mailbox! Time to bust out the dremel and start cutting!

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/OEMCTRSidemarkers1.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/OEMCTRSidemarkers2.jpg

I'm diggin' the thin side molding and the sidemarkers!

Right now i have a little over 30 cluster, all from honda's......its a bit much.

So when are you going to put those side markers on?
Just remember, Measure twice, cut once.

I'll probably end up putting them on some time within the next week or so. Basically, the next time I have a full day free from parenting. lol In the mean time, I have to go search around the forum for the wiring instructions. I know it's around somewhere, I just haven't felt like searching for it yet. haha

I didn't like how the lip kit moved around a little when attached to the bumper, so I added some extra self-tapping screws to the underside. No movement at all now!

Also, continuing to work on the sub enclosure! I would put up pics, but the thing looks fugly right now (bare MDF board, some glue, and screws..lol). I will post up pics once it is done, carpeted, and installed.

I guess the only thing to look forward to now are new mirrors which should be coming by the end of the week, and installation of the side markers. As soon as that's all done with, I will be 100% ready for paint!

Received the trunk carpet from Nikeh34d today. Tomorrow will include a trip to Home depot to grab another board of MDF in order to complete a new trunk floor! The carpet I got will be attached with spray adhesive once the boards are cut to size.

If all goes well, I should have the sidemarkers installed and wired in on Thursday.

Alright, I got a bunch of work done over the past two days. Here we go. First off, I made a new trunk floor! Here's the old one....

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Oldtrunkfloor2.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/OldTrunkfloor1.jpg
.....old indeed (about 10 years old), warped, and featuring a foot long crack in the board right behind the rear seats.

I used the trunk carpet Nike sent me as a template to make it easier for myself... this is what I ended up creating...

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newtrunkfloor1.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newtrunkfloor2.jpg
......now, a pic of the hinges in action.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newtrunkfloor3.jpg
The hinges were added in order to be able to take the floor in and out easier. I then used spray adhesive to attach Nike's trunk carpet, and let dry. The final product.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newtrunkfloor4.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Newtrunkfloor5.jpg

Additionally, I installed my sidemarkers today! Once again, the Dremel came through for me. Here are some pics of before cutting.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Sidemarkerset-up1.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Sidemarkerset-up2.jpg

And now the actual sidemarkers in the fenders...
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Sidemarkerinstalled1.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Sidemarkerinstalled2.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Sidemarkerinstalled3.jpg

I used this page for all the measurements and how to set it up correctly (http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/how-tos-tutorials/39705-96-00-ek-sidemarker-install.html), and I used Danomatic's DIY for the wiring.(http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73597&highlight=sidemarker+wiring) I ended up choosing Option three as it is the most ballin'. lol I'll try to get some evening vid's of the sidemarkers in action tonight or tomorrow evening. Let me know what you guys think!

Picked up a set of OEM headlights today.

Wet-sanded my newly purchased OEM lights, used some extra silicone on them, and installed them... no more junky DEPO fogged up lights! Completely wash/cleaned my car inside and out. Simple greened the engine bay.

Finally went ahead and did the parking brake/video bypass for my headunit. Converted a few movies to mp4 format be able to use them on my new ipod (thanks trust)....now I can entertain my son on longer trips! lol

they look good man!! one thing tho it may have acutally been cheaper to get the JDM fenders from Password JDM for 129 for both of them and for an extra 15 bucks you could have gotten the side markers with the oem wireing harness. Oh well looks good any ways!!
http://passwordjdm.com/EK-96-98-Civic-Fenders-JDM-Spec-P1391C164.aspx

^^ I have a 99 Civic... not 96-98 style.
http://passwordjdm.com/EK-99-00-Civic-Fenders-JDM-Spec-P1393C164.aspx

$149.99 (fenders) + $20.00 (both left and right sidemarkers - amber) + $15.00 (wiring harness) + $84 (estimate for shipping) = $268.99......no thanks.

I bought the fenders for $100, and $25 for both sidemarkers total.

Looks good... I'm going to be even more jealous if you paint your car before I do lol

I am ways away from that right now. I need a new set of mirrors and I have some body damage behind my driver door which will add an extra $400 (at least) to the bill. lol

I got lucky...

I picked up a friend of mine who works at a local Firestone, and his friend (who does body work and painting) was there picking up his car from an inspection. I got a chance to meet him and walk around the car with him etc etc. We talked for a little bit and decided the best bet is to just fix all the dents/dings at once and sand, primer, and paint the entire car. (instead of fixing dents and blending the paint).

He gave me a quote of $1500. I thinks that's an amazing price seeing as body shops around me are telling me at least $2200. Now, I just have to decide on what color I want. Either OEM silver, or some type of gunmetal (or darker shade of silver), he said the price would be basically the same for paint.

So, now I have to get $1500 in my hands! I am planning on returning my motor to stock and selling my Skunk2 IM, Crower Stage 2 Camshaft, and Supertech Valve Springs/retainers (although, I'm told that titanium retainers are to be replaced every 15,000 miles and I put about 13,000 on them). I'll end up keeping the ARP head studs installed since I don't feel like worrying about the OEM head studs being unusable. Also, if I decided to remove the ARP's, I would have to get a new headgasket which would end up costing me like $60, which is about how much I'll end up making off the ARP's.

Silly me, I didn't put any type of rust inhibitor on my fenders when I cut the sidemarkers and I noticed a little brown edge developing. I'll attack it with a little sand paper and spray the opening with some black rustoleum paint to prevent anymore rusting.

If anyone has any ideas on what color I should have my car painted (OEM silver or some shade of silver), post up your thoughts!

Gunmetal. I could see that looking pretty nice.

You have a specific gunmetal in mind? Some of the Acura TL's have that darker grey color. I was thinking about something like that. But I have to keep in mind that my door jambs, under the hood and trunk won't match until I have time to paint it myself.

BTW, I'll eventually settle with some polished GSR Blades for wheels if that helps anyone with some suggestions regarding color. I appreciate the input itinerant.

oem silver!!!!

I've really been wanting to do my civic in a gunmetal grey/green color for a while now, so I'd be interested to see what yours looks like if you go that route. However, OEM silver looks pretty decent on civics.

Some of you may know that I have this OEM suspension from my old 98 Civic (totaled about 3 years ago) which I am trying to get rid of. I actually got an E-mail from someone about 1 1/2 hours from me who wanted to buy only the rear struts...I said no because I don't want to get stuck with only front struts and a full set of springs.

We talked a little about cash/possible trades, and turns out he has a mint set of SI (or 99-00 Civic) tail lights he is willing to trade for the OEM suspension. woot!!!! Hopefully, I will be meeting up with him within the next week or so.

As far as the paint I like black but every so often I see a gunmetal that I really like. Something like this... http://www.freewebs.com/jrsch22a/front.jpg

^That color is nice! That's along the lines of what I was thinking. Saw a Jade Green Metallic RSX yesterday and thought that could be a possibility, too.

I have about $500 saved for paint.. 1/3 of the way there. I still need new mirrors, that'll probably run me about $50. Keep the suggestions coming regarding paint!

my EG was charcoal and that was sexy

like the one here-
http://www.modifiedcars.com/cars/Honda/18538.htm

^^ ehh... just a little too dark IMO. But I appreciate the input!

I strayed away from my saving for paint just a little. For the past 2 weeks, I have been hooking up sound systems in a few of my buddy's cars just to make a little side money and to help them out. I started to hate driving in my car without any "bottom" to it, so I met up with someone in S. Philly and bought a 10" sub in box for $40. It's a MTX Roadthunder. Sounds decent and matches the specs of the sub channel on my amp perfectly (200w RMS @ 4ohms). It's not car rattling powerful, but more than enough to create that bottom sound and make the music sound so much more "full". lol

Plans for today: Lengthen the wiring for the sub to be able to position it where I want in the trunk, and re-paint the drivers side windshield wiper black since the guy who installed my windshield scratched into that paint when he was cutting out the cracked one.

i know the bottomless feeling
i feel like the music sounds almost empty without a sub (or 2 in my case);)

ya you don't realize how much you really would miss a sub until you go a while without it. When i burned out my old amp, it killed me so i just put in an old kenwood amp just to have somethin.

Havent had a sub for about a year.... sucks teh ballz lol

And army green paint yes?

And army green paint yes?
please no

And army green paint yes?

Unfortunately, I'll have to pass on the army green. lol. Too much of a color change. I just want a freshly painted Civic that won't jump out and grab the wrong person's attention.

I'm starting to lean towards OEM silver paint as I wouldn't have to worry about in the trunk/engine bay/door jambs. Also, a fresh silver painted civic is just that, but a fresh gunmetal (or any other non-oem civic color) civic would begin to attract the wrong kind of attention IMO.

Bored so I went and took a quick pic of how the car looks right now. OEM headlights FTW.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/OEMheadlights82209.jpg

And a pic of the new bump-in-the-trunk:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/MTXSub82209.jpg

Edit - Whoops! Forgot to add a pic of why I wasn't able to attend Honda Day on 8/15/09...yes, I know the event is two weeks after Honda day, but I had a choice, spend $30 and look like an idiot for running my 15-16 second d16 at the track (against Honda's/Acura's that are actually quick and deserve to be on the track), or spend $35 on a ticket for myself....lol

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/EAGLES2009.jpg

Got an incredible deal them and a bunch of my buddies were available to go on 8/27! 3rd year in a row I have been able to go to an Eagles preseason game. The stadium is pure awesomeness and 5 hours of drinking/eating/fun while we wait in the parking lot (game is at 7pm) is always a great time. Preseason woot!

Mike Vick FTMFW :D lol..

And army green paint yes?

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh243/kkrashh/steven_dropped.jpg

Even matte, it looks cool.

^^ it might be the unpainted door handels/moldings/mirrors/lip/grill etc etc, but I am completely turned off by that color. (and those wheels are played out IMO).... lol

And Nike, I did just read that Andy Reid might let him (Vick) play along side McNabb & Kolb (who is nursing a hurt knee I think) on Thursday. I have actually yet to see McNabb play since I have gone to the last preseason game ever year and they don't play him....assuming him getting hurt the last preseason game is a risk Eagles don't want to take. If they do play Vick, I really won't care cuz I'll be drunk off my ass..lol

Quick Update: Recently, I have developed some sort of tapping type noise coming from the head. I first noticed it about a week ago while I was letting the car idle and warm up. I think it is my valve lash, but I am not sure. Also, I have been having a lot of trouble getting into 1st and reverse, damn synchros.

Luckily, I have found someone in Philly who has a port and polished complete z6 head for sale. As many know, I have a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder #2 causing a loss of compression, so the head needs to be replaced/fixed. I only need a new set of head studs (a set for the z6 head), since one of the studs for the y8 is different, and a new head gasket! Everything else should be able to swap over.

Now since I am flirting with the possibility of keeping my stage 2 camshaft installed (as well as the skunk 2 IM and all other valvetrain), I need some help figuring out what type of cam gear I should get. I had a skunk2 cam gear sitting in my garage for about a year and ended up selling it to someone else cause I couldn't get it to fit onto the camshaft. It looks like that the cam gear should have some type of "tooth" that goes into the camshaft (stock one does have this). However, the skunk2 cam gear didn't have a "tooth", it was an opening for one, just like the camshaft, so I ended up not using it.

If anyone can help me with that issue, it would be greatly appreciated. I really want to be able to take full advantage of the stage 2 camshaft.

Also, does anyone know if I am able to swap everything except the valves from my y8 head over to this z6 head and have it work right? I do know that if I get the z6 head, I'll have to end up getting an OBD1 dizzy.

Well, I'm going ahead and buying the port and polished z6 head. I hopefully will be able to pick this up today. I also went and bought the obd1 distributor from a 95 Civic EX. Now, all I have to worry about is an adjustable cam gear, the dizzy plugs (I need a set from a 92-95 EX/SI), and a new head gasket.

Just for fun, here are a couple pics of my bro, friends, and I at the Eagles tailgating and game.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/Grilling7.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/Mytrunkloadedup.jpg
^^ Civic trunk "fill-age".. haha

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/Yum.jpg
^^ My bro.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/Grilling5.jpg
^ I'm the one wearing the striped blue shirt/khaki shorts.

\/ A shot of my car and Center City in the background \/
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/CarshotwithPhilly.jpg

\/ I think this was the funniest video we recorded while we were there \/
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/th_3rdtimesacharm.jpg (http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Eagles%202009/?action=view&current=3rdtimesacharm.flv)

Im considering doing a minime soon. Since your getting a new head, dizzy, etc i figure you will have a lot of the parts I need left over. Would you be selling the old stuff? And is the head completely fixable or would it be a waste of my time?

^^ It should just need new valves and a lap. I doubt I will be selling anything for two reasons. 1. I usually keep all my stock parts just in case if I want to go back to stock and 2. I wouldn't feel like dealing with shipping a head because it is too heavy to even think how much it would cost.

However, if you are thinking of making a generous offer + shipping, I might consider selling it......maybe. haha

I can understand that. I can probably just get all the stuff locally then. Is the z6 head a better swap for me to consider than the y8?

Both the z6 and y8 heads have their perks. The z6 has a better flowing head, but the y8 has a better flowing IM and I have heard the y8 cam is a little more aggressive, but I can't confirm that.

Quick little update: I made an at home "hot tank" using a large enough cooler. Poured about a half bottle of simple green in and filled it all up with hot water. The head has been sitting in it for about 3 hours so far and I plan on leaving it in there for another 45 mins or so.

Received my Skunk2 adj. cam gear yesterday. A buddy of mine is telling me we can get a square key from a local hardware store to work regarding my issue involving the "tooth" opening of the cam gear and cam shaft.

**If you are one the people reading this wondering what in the hell I am talking about when I refer to a "tooth" in the cam gear/cam shaft, don't worry. I'll post up a few pics of what I am talking about when I install everything. haha

Does anyone know what I have to do in order to use the OBD1 dist. from a 95 EX to work on my car? I am mainly worried about the plugs. Will it plug right in where my existing OBD2 distributor is currently, or will that plug need to be repinned or something?

Just got my dist. in. One of the plastic clips are broken. yay..... I went ahead and took two quick pics to show the seller. Hopefully, we can get this resolved quickly so I can move on with this. I assume that the plug will still work, but I would rather not accept a broken item when it was shown and advertised as 100% working order. I am guessing it was broken during shipping.

Here are some pics. Let me know what you think.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/DSC01422.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/DSC01423.jpg

....and yes, those little pieces of plastic on my laptop are what was found in the bottom of the packaging.

So my question is, should I go ahead and file a paypal dispute with him now? I would have 30 days or so in order to upgrade it to a claim, or drop it if we get something resolved. Or should I just wait for him to respond to my e-mail first? Never really had to deal with something like this before.

Wait for him to respond to you and see if you cant work something out. It honestly doesnt look like it will be that big of a deal. Some electrical tape around it for security and your good to go.

^^ Definitely, but I am trying not to have a dizzy plug taped when I paid for one that should be in perfect condition.

However, I have been searching around on info about this. It looks like I will have to "un-pin" and re-pin the plugs in order for it to work properly with the OBD2 wire harness. So the broken clip non-sense won't even be a problem. The OBD2 dizzy has one plug with 8 wires, the OBD1 I just got has two plugs, one with 7 wires, the other with 2 wires.

Well, I finally talked to the guy who sold me the dizzy. I had to request his info. from Ebay and I called him myself. I spoke with him about the minor issue and he just kept going on and on about how his brother ruined the business etc etc. None of which I need to hear. He told me to ship it back and promised he will refund upon receipt. I am not even sure if I want to deal with that since I feel like he could be lying about a refund or whatever. I might as well try and sell it to someone else. Nothing is wrong with it mechanically, I am just kinda picky when it comes to little things like that.

I have been thinking of selling my car and just getting something cheap, decent looking, and cheaper on insurance. (I have a couple "uh-ohs" on my record making it somewhat expensive for me) haha. I have always been a sucker for EG hatches. Figured if I get a CX/VX, then insurance would be knocked down a little.

If I decide to sell my car, I will be getting rid of the (complete) ported z6 head I have sitting in my garage. Anyone interested?

Lastly, since I have no money, I figured there will be no rear disc swap in my future since I would need new trailing arm bushings, rotors, pads, and SI rear brake lines. Someone from CL has a set of HX wheels (one with a little rash) wants to trade for my rear disc set-up/prop. valve. I will most likely go through with the trade since I can use the tires from my steelies which have roughly 75% life left. IMO, it would also be easier to sell a set of HX's rather than a rear disc set-up that needs parts if I needed to in the future.

how much would the z6 head be?
i could rock a d16a6/z6 mini-me on boost

No idea. I can imagine that it will cost a little bit to ship. If you are interested, I could sell it to you for $100 plus shipping. It has the valve cover, vtec solenoid, cam, camgear, valves etc etc (100% complete).

If you want the dizzy as well, I could toss that in for an extra $75. ($175 plus ship.)

PM me with your zip if you are interested Hamorhead. I can then get a somewhat guess-timated total price for you.

Im interested too. 73701 :)

Well, RC was the first to get me his zip. I'll check what USPS will charge for you RC2904. Just making sure, you do know that this is an OBD1 head/dizzy and you have an OBD2a car. The dizzy will have to be repinned in some form in order to fit the OBD2 wiring harness you have. Everything else should match up perfectly (with the exception of one head stud).

RC, I'll send you a PM when I get an estimated quote.

yea he can have it i just bought more stuff for my rex and still need an amp
thanks though
and RC cvcrcr99 is a really good seller, you'll be happy

^^ No problem about not being able to buy it. Also, I appreciate the good feedback Hamor!

RC, you should have a PM by the end of the weekend.

Yeah i dont know a whole lot about what im getting myself into but a friend of mine has a z6 and its fun as hell to drive so just as long as u can tell me what I need to do then im game. btw I need a obd1 ecu and will probably want an intake mani/tb off of a y8 correct? And are you saying my wireing harness will work? I thought I read somewhere that I need a new one. And do I need a knock sensor as well?

i dont want to thread jack his thread but
to swap a d16z6 in your car(my suggestion) you would need z6 motor, y8 dizzy(or z6 with a jumper), a p28 ecu with a obd2a to obd1 jumper harness, and also either a z6 im or a y8. then all you have to do is run the 2 vtec wires to the ecu. and ground the other wire.

RC, z6's didn't come with knock sensors. You do not need one. I would assume 94civichatchback knows a whole lot more than I do on this subject than I do. You have been PM'd as well.

Man I want it eventually but ive pretty much hit a financial road block for a while. Id say if anyone else is interested go ahead and sell it but if its still there when i can afford it I will be all over that.

^^ Sounds good man. Anyone else interested in the z6 head and/or dizzy?

I'll be setting up a FS thread for it and some other things when I get a chance to later this weekend.

So it's been awhile since I have updated about the car. As many of you can tell by my FS thread, I was able to sell the z6 head and other parts.

The reason I was selling everything was because someone on CC had a killer deal on a JRSC for the d series. It's something like $575 shipped. After selling most everything, I would only have to shell out an extra $100 for the complete set-up. The deal is pending right now since he said he would rather do a local deal and not mess with paypal/shipping. oh well. We'll see what happens with that.

If the deal doesn't go through, I now have some extra cash to play around with. I am thinking I would get a new clutch/flywheel, or get a bunch of small little things like a new oil pan (the threads for the drain bolt are kinda stripped on my current one), possibly a wink mirror, anti-glare cover for my DD headunit, etc etc. Or I could be boring and say I will spend it on Christmas gifts for others. lol

So it's been awhile since I have updated about the car. As many of you can tell by my FS thread, I was able to sell the z6 head and other parts.

The reason I was selling everything was because someone on CC had a killer deal on a JRSC for the d series. It's something like $575 shipped. After selling most everything, I would only have to shell out an extra $100 for the complete set-up. The deal is pending right now since he said he would rather do a local deal and not mess with paypal/shipping. oh well. We'll see what happens with that.

If the deal doesn't go through, I now have some extra cash to play around with. I am thinking I would get a new clutch/flywheel, or get a bunch of small little things like a new oil pan (the threads for the drain bolt are kinda stripped on my current one), possibly a wink mirror, anti-glare cover for my DD headunit, etc etc. Or I could be boring and say I will spend it on Christmas gifts for others. lol


I seen your post on the supercharger and hell yeah that was one hell of a deal, I hope you get it

^^ Thanks Nike. I assumed you saw the SC on that site. I am battling a guy who is local and planning on giving him $600 cash. So I offered $615 paypal'd etc. And he said he wants to wait for the local guy in a week. This all happened yesterday.

Today, he is telling me that some friends of the local guy who wants to give him cash is sometimes flaky when it comes to stuff like this. Regardless, the SC guy (who is selling it), PM'd me and said if I can do $650 paypal'd. He would sell it immediately. Either way I look at it, it's a steal since d16 superchargers (complete kit) go for at least $900 (since they are now discontinued). Anyone think I should wait it out and take a chance for the local guy to come through, or should I say "F- it, and buy it for $650".

Well, I went ahead and bought the SC. I was thinking about how I wanted the SC to look in the engine bay. I will have my valve cover painted black with the "Honda" sign polished. I was thinking about do the same thing on the jrsc. Painting the manifold and leaving the "Jackson Racing Superchargers" lettering polished. Anyone think black wrinkle paint (instead of a semi-gloss black) would look better? I'm not even sure if the wrinkle black paint is high temp.

At 7 psi, I am hoping to be around 170-180 whp or so. More than enough for daily driving. Remember, I also have the stage 2 camshaft installed, so I am thinking as soon as the SC loses it effectiveness at around 4,000 rpms, the camshaft power with start to come out.

I should also be able to run the stock injectors, stock clutch and all that until I get a little more money. The first thing I will be upgrading the clutch, then a header, and finally injectors/re-tune. I am thinking 410cc RC's, or something simple like Acura MDX 440cc injectors. Anyone else have any other suggestions?

Pics will be up when the SC comes in.

:D ef yeah man black/Polished will look clean as [****] IMO Cant wait for this to happen :D

here is the VC i painted wrinkle black ---> http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74473&page=12

I dont think they have it in high-temp but you dont need it to be. Also after you wet sand the whole VC and SC, take regular sand paper with low grit and start sanding the lettering down before you paint it, once it looks nice and shinny then prime and paint it. It sounds weird to do it first but trust me polishing the lettering when the whole thing is painted is hard because you have to try and not scratch the rest of the VC. It also just makes it a lost easier because you dont have to sand as much and as hard.

^^ Yea, I can understand your concern. But, it shouldn't be as hard polishing after paint since I have a polishing compound kit for my Dremel. hehe

I will end up doing the valve cover first since it all has been sanded down already. I just need to stop being lazy and go buy paint.

I talked with a friend, who basically knows all about Hondas and modding them (he has also taught me everything that I know now), about my compression issue and how I can solve that. Silly me, I thought I could re-lap the current valves back in the head. But of course, he delivers a little bad news (no matter what, I will listen to what he says...never steered me wrong before). I will be buying a new set of valves and installing them when I install the SC. The skunk2 cam gear will also be installed when all this happens.

Right now, I am shooting for Oct. 15th. Hopefully, I will be able to have enough time in order to pull the head, change out valves, install the cam gear, install the SC, and reinstall the head in one day. Tuning, of course, would happen that night riding around on highways and back roads around my area.

^^ Yea, I can understand your concern. But, it shouldn't be as hard polishing after paint since I have a polishing compound kit for my Dremel. hehe


awww you lucky bast@rd haha, anyways excited to see your gunna supercharge the civic now, cant wait to see the pics in the next few weeks.

^^ Thanks!!! I do appreciate all the support from you guys. I will have pics up when everything is ready to be installed.

I don't remember ever seeing a supercharger build on this site. I'm lookin forward to this all happening.

^^ I did a bit of searching when I read your post sigracer. I really couldn't find anything except Superd16's (and we all know why that doesn't really count; haha) and 315 Customs build where it looks like he was going from a SC to a LS/vtec build (correct me if I am wrong, I only skimmed through the search results)

I ordered my new valves and a new cometic head gasket today. Should be here within the next week or so and ready for 10/15. I have to run down the street to Fastenal (not 100% on the spelling) and pick up a square key that fits my cam gear. Other than that, all I need to do is buy some valve lapping compund, have the SC cleaned/painted, fuel rail polished, and I should be good to go!

I also painted my valve cover wrinkle black (with polished lettering)...it turned out a lot better than I thought it would. I'll have some pics posted up tonight of the VC. Now, I just have to figure out what I want to do regarding the valve cover grommets. They look like trash compared to the VC now. lol. I'll prolly end up painting the grommets and then polishing the bolts. If I have extra time and paint, I'll probably end up painting my strut bar, TB, and intake piping the same wrinkle black.

In for pics...

Well, as promised....

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/VCon10409.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/VCon104092.jpg

I did the VC paint extremely quick since I was pressed for time. Still, I was able to sand it all, polish the lettering/chap stick it, paint everything, wipe off most of the paint on the lettering and take a blow dryer to it to dry it in time. I am extremely happy with the way it turned out, although I still need to touch up a couple places and clean up the Honda lettering a little more.

Next will be the grommets, cam gear cover, strut bar, TB, intake piping, and SC (when it arrives). I still have thoughts of polishing the bolts and having the grommets painted. Spoke with the guy who I bought the SC from, I should have it in my hands on Friday! (Pics to come of course)

Looks like it came out pretty good. Bays look crazy with A/C and PS lol. So much going on under there.

^^Thanks. If I could choose to remove something, it would probably be the cruise control since I don't use it much. I could also deal without P/S, too. However, A/c will always be there. lol

I really want to hide some of the wires, but I don't have that kind of time to cut/extend them. I barely have enough time to do what I do to the car now :( haha

Valves should be here on Thursday!

mine looks better lol jk, nice work. If I were you I would paint the oil cap flat black to clean the vc up a bit more cause it looks out of place since its dirty

^^ what you trying to say???? That my oil cap looks dirty?????? hmm fine, you talked me into it. lol.

Well, I received this on Thursday....
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC01566.jpg

And this on Friday.....
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC01543.jpg

^^ Yea, that's the Supercharger in that what-you-could-call a box. UPS SUCKS!!! Once again, they f-ed up more of my sh!t. I PM'd the seller of the SC pics of the box and he couldn't believe what he saw, regarding how mangled it was. After taking everything out, I could only find that the black thing on the IAC was broken. UPS is currently processing my claim for a new IAC (or money for one) at this moment. I hate UPS with a passion. lol...no, but seriously, I do.

Broken IAC, it's cracked on the other side as well as what you see here\/
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC01547.jpg

Here are pics of the goodness after I unboxed everything, and cleaned it up.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC01551.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC01565.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/DSC01555.jpg

My Cometic HG will be arriving on Monday. I am also making a trip to Fastenal today for a square key for the Skunk2 adj. cam gear, and buying oil/filter/coolant/anything else I'll need for Thursday (10/15).

I also decided NOT to paint the IM and intake piping since the paint would actually retain heat from the engine bay. I am trying to keep the motor as cool as possible, so I will end up buying some heat wrap for the intake piping and possibly the header, too.

Lastly, my buddy who is helping me install on Thursday is talking about the possibility of experimenting with water/methanol injection in order to cool the motor down even more. He kept going on and on about how we can set-up another tube coming from my windshield washer reservoir that would go into my intake piping right before the TB. He said something about windshield washer fluid is 95% methanol. I wouldn't start experimenting with something like this until next spring, and until I fully understand it. Anyone know anything about this?

HG came in today. Also, ordered new Iridium spark plugs that are 2 steps colder (stock are 5's, I'm going to be running 7's).

Should also be buying the fuel pressure gauge, AEM dryflow filter, AEM bypass filter, and new bumper plugs from Addiction2Bass by the end of the day.

I have two questions (for any who reads this project thread):
1. My friend bought the RC 750cc injectors I had from my turbo build, and he wants to give me his stock 310's since I am pretty sure my stock (240cc) injectors will be maxing out when at 7lbs (full boost for the JRSC). Otherwise, I have someone lined up to sell me a set of Bosch (same as Injector Dynamics) 550cc injectors for $200. Anyone think RSX type S injectors will be enough fuel for my SC'd D16?

2. This is my main concern. When I get gas, my car is extremely hard to start. Basically bogging down and dying. My buddy and I datalogged it all and found my MAP sensor to be reading 0 psi (although the TPS is showing 0 - Not open) for some reason when I start the car after getting gas. After a few minutes of holding the gas down a little bit to keep the motor from stalling, the map sensor begins to read the air pressure and the motor is stable again. This is only when I get gas, never at any other times. Also, during that time, my injectors are basically sitting open for 7-9ms which is causing the car to run pig-rich. Anyone know of a possible solution?

New spark plugs arrive tomorrow! Picked up some Honda Genuine Coolant (2 Gallons), Honda Genuine Manual Trans. Fluid (2 quarts), and valve lapping compound yesterday. Had to special order the square key for the cam gear and will be picking that up today.

Painted the strut bar, A/c bracket, and radiator bracket wrinkle black yesterday. Pics will be up later once I am 100% with painting everything else.

I'm starting to get excited for Thursday! All I need to do is re-polish the VC letters, bolts, paint the grommets, SC lettering, TB cable bracket, and cut a circle in my upper timing belt cover in order to access my adjustable cam gear to make changes if/when needed

I will be removing my head tomorrow night to lap the new valves in, and then installing everything else Thursday morning! I just hope I am not forgetting anything that will delay the SC install.

Subscribed.

SC, new valves, etc etc installed. A-M-A-Z-I-N-G. Still have to tweak the tune a little to have it dialed in 100%.

Pics, goods, bads, and the ugly tomorrow when I wake up.

Well, where should I start? Instead of starting the install last night and finishing today (10/15), my buddy and I decided to attack it on Tuesday night and finished late last night. Thank God because it is pouring down rain today.

So we start by removing the head/IM/fuel rail, no problem. Here's whats left of the bay:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/HeadOff3101409.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/HeadOff1101409.jpg

Then, we start lapping/grinding the new valves into the head. New intake valves, oem exhaust valves:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/NewIntakeValves2101409.jpg

Now, the finished product. All new valves:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/NewValves1101409.jpg

Up to about this point, it was smooth sailing. However, the Supercharger posed ALOT of fitment issues that needed to be addressed. 1st, a coolant line was preventing the S pipe from being bolted in. So, we cut it down a little:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/FitmentIssue1-Cuttingcoolantline.jpg

Then, the driver side strut tower wall was in the way of the actual supercharger pulley. Apparently, this wall needs to be hammered in to fit 100%. Here's a pic showing how close the pulley is to the strut tower wall after we knocked it in a little with a nice big hammer:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Fittedandinstalled2.jpg

Other than that, we had some little fitment issues with power steering lines, coolant lines, vacuum lines, and wiring. Some sensors needed to be cut and extended, but no biggie. Installed:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Fittedandinstalled3.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Fittedandinstalled4.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Fittedandinstalled5.jpg

Now, for a couple random pics. First, my buddy Jeff who helped with the install chillin on top of my motor trying to move a power steering return line out of the way since it was rubbing on the SC/Alt. belt:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Jeffmycarchillin2101409.jpg

My car hangin out in the garage:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Jeffmycarchillin1101409.jpg

Jeff grinding his valve spring compressor in order for it to fit onto the valve springs for removal. 1Motion FTW! haha
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Jeffalteringtools-1Motion.jpg

Good news, since the new valves were installed, we decided to check compression. Remember when I had that lose of compression in the 2nd cylinder due to a burnt exhaust valve? Well, it's gone now. 160 compression across the board.

Bad news, we pulled out my camshaft and this is what we found. Keep in mind that the camshaft is about 20,000 miles old, but it still sucks to see something like this:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Camscratches1.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Camscratches2.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Camscratches3.jpg

Basically all the exhaust lobes have little scratches in them. Oh well, I guess nothing lasts forever. The camshaft is still installed in the car. We felt that the scratches were not enough to take it out and re-install the OEM camshaft. I'll have to keep an eye on it.

We ended up driving around for about an hour to get a base tune down and let me tell you, I have fallen in love with my car all over again. I guess you could say this is the first time I have actually had a somewhat respectable amount of power being put down from my D16. Regardless if a turbo is better or not, who cares? This was cheaper, less involved (less parts), and the lower end torque is extremely fun. I can hit the gas at 2000 rpms in fifth gear, and be able to pull up a hill with no problem whatsoever.

I am currently running stock injectors (240cc), but I do want to upgrade to something around 440cc. At WOT at 7500 rpms, my injector duty cycle is at 82%. I do not plan on revving higher than 8k, so my stock injectors should work without issues.

Also, I now need an alignment since my buddy and I banged in the driver side strut tower wall for clearance. Of course, the car pulls to the left. I still have my lifetime alignment plan, so that'll be done within the next week when I get some extra time.

I bet this post will be edited a bunch of times as I am sure there are some things I left out.

Nice work! Glad to see someone do something different for a change!

awsomeness. any estimate on horsepower?

I always assumed a SC was more expensive or more work since everybody seems to go for turbo. Let me know how much power you end up with in case I want one someday :)

awsomeness. any estimate on horsepower?

Just guessing by what I have felt at the moment, I would say about 160-180 whp. Hopefully, I will be able to schedule some dyno time soon in order to see exactly. Remember, I also have the Crower stage 2 Camshaft and the upgraded springs/retainers, that's why I am guessing 160-180 whp. Regardless, it has been raining all day today, I took the car out and couldn't get traction throughout 1st, 2nd, and 1/2 way through 3rd (I am still riding on 14'' steelies with 185/50(I think)/R14's, so they aren't the best). It's a totally different feel than from what I am used to.

I always assumed a SC was more expensive or more work since everybody seems to go for turbo. Let me know how much power you end up with in case I want one someday :)

Well, I got a pretty decent deal for my set-up. I paid $650 for the SC and all the accesories. I ended up spending $80 on new oil/filter/tranny fluid/coolant/coolant line/vacuum hose. I spent $90 for the valves, and $82 for the Cometic head gasket. I normally see D16 JRSCs go for around $900.

Cost really depends on how much HP you want in the end. You can spend $100-$170 on a smaller turbo, keep stock injectors and boost no more than 5-6 lbs and be fine. Or you can buy a bigger turbo for $400-$700 and then have to upgrade all other essential components (which is what I was basically doing).

Turbos usually yield more hp than SC's that's probably a big reason why there are more turbo projects.

On a side note, I seem to have developed a small oil leak coming from my oil pan it seems. I'm planning on getting under the car tonight and figuring out where it is coming from. Also, I received the AEM dryflow filter, AEM bypass filter, fuel pressure gauge, and bumper plugs. All but the fuel pressure gauge will probably be installed tonight.

I'll post an updated pic of my engine bay once I'm done tonight.

No pics yet, I was busy all night trying to find this oil leak I have.

I did install the aem bypass, aem dryflow filter and bumper plugs last night, so some work was completed.

I have to cut and extend a few wires, and mess with some vacuum hoses today. Hopefully, it'll look a lot cleaner when I'm done! (Instead of having vacuum tubing and wires just laying around)

what r bumper plugs?

They are plugs that cover the license plate holes.... for people who don't wanna just close them off for cleanness xD

http://th00.deviantart.net/fs6/300W/i/2005/036/8/d/Giant___Rawr___Smiley_by_Krash32.png

They are plugs that cover the license plate holes.... for people who don't wanna just close them off for cleanness xD

huh??? For people who don't wanna close them off? That's what you do with bumper plugs, close off the holes. They aren't too big of a deal, but I'll end up snapping a pic of them tonight.

And what's up with the giant rawr? lol j/w

LMAO it really made me laugh... and i meant dont wanna close them off for good as in sanding them down and closing holes hehe... plugs still leave two big bumps there....

In simpler terms..... for people who dont wanna shave the holes :D

lol ok

LMAO it really made me laugh... and i meant dont wanna close them off for good as in sanding them down and closing holes hehe... plugs still leave two big bumps there....

In simpler terms..... for people who dont wanna shave the holes :D

Well, I also have a bumper that's not OEM. If I shaved off the section for the bumper holes, I would have even bigger holes in the bumper since there is nothing there. I would love to have them shaved, but can't at the moment.

umm fiberglass over them then paint the fiberglass
reaper did it on his eg
he still has the pics (most likely)

I wish I could do body work all like that. I have never messed with fiberglass before. These bumper plugs will most likely be a temporary thing.

I have been looking through my data-logs for the first 2 tuning session I had with my friend, and noticed that the MAP sensor is not reading boost at the TB. I ended up hooking it up to the IM directly, drove around a little, and it read 7.3 psi at around 5500rpms. Fixed!

Driving around today, got onto the highway (rt 202), did a third gear pull and my driver side wiper arm/blade almost flew off the car! lol I guess it just wasn't tight enough.

Also, just got done putting the oil pan back on to fix my oil leak issue. I ended up removing it, and using honda-bond as my new oil pan gasket since the current one leaked. Hopefully, this will solve that issue. I am taking a pic for you all to show you how everything looks at the moment, but I'm too tired to upload it. Pics tomorrow morning.

Two quick pics of what my bay looks like at the moment:

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay1101609.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay2101609.jpg

Just got done putting a fresh 3.5 quarts of oil in it and letting her warm up now. I will be taking her out for a test run to see if I loose any oil. I'll update about the oil situation later tonight. BTW, thank you addiction for the bypass and dryflow filters, spark plug seals, bumper plugs, and the fuel pressure gauge!

o think it will look way cleaner once you clean up the hoses and wires, also a megan racing header would look nice in there too. Looks good tho man. Do you plan on re-painting the intake piping?

When I do get a header, the header and intake piping will be wrapped in exhaust heat wrap in order to attempt to reduce intake temps. That's why I didn't care about how the paint looked. However, I will not end up buying that stuff until I get new injectors first.

Found out that my oil leak is most likely coming from where the head meets the block. When my buddy and I were reinstalling the head, we noticed (after we torqued the head down) that 2 dowel pins fell out. We had two choices at that point:

1. Take the head back off, install the dowel pins, and hope the HG wasn't blown
2. Leave it as is and hope I didn't leak oil

So basically I will be removing the head again to reinstall the dowel pins and praying that fixes the leak. I just ordered another Cometic HG. Should be here mid-next week.

Anyone notice my CC is no longer there? I am thinking about removing PS next since a few lines come really close to the SC belt and I think I would like how my engine bay would look with it gone (AC will always stay).

Tonight I will be making a bracket to cover the stock MAP sensor spot on the TB, and fabbing up a bracket for the MAP sensor so it isn't just hanging by a zip tie from a hard line.

Driving around last night with a buddy, noticed a burning plastic smell, then a bad rubbing feel through the steering wheel. Apparently, my intake tubing popped off the TB, fell down into the hole, got jammed between my wheel and tranny, and snapped the bypass filter I have.

Not a big deal, just somewhat frustrating since I only used it for about 3 days and then had a malfunction and broke. Back to a SRI at the moment.

New HG comes in tomorrow. The head will be removed, dowel pins reinstalled, and head to be put back on. I should be able to have the car running 100% tomorrow evening (with no oil leaks hopefully).

I opted to keep P/S in when I originally installed the SC, mainly because I didn't have the appropriate fittings etc to do it correctly and because I needed my car for Thursday night (to pick up my son about 1/2 away at his grandfather's house), and I was extremely tired from all the "customizing" that was needed in order for the JRSC to fit.

Now, since the SC will be off in addition to the head, I have the option of buying the fittings etc tomorrow morning, and be able to remove it all while I wait for UPS to deliver the HG.

I'll be honest and say that I really enjoy being able to one hand turn the car into a parking space without moving the car or straining myself, but I would love to be able to clean the bay up even more. (So far, only CC has been removed and A/C will always be there no matter what) I am just wondering, what would everyone else's choice be? Remove it and have a nicer looking bay, or keep it and have an easier time turning the wheel in tight spots where P/S really does help.

I say keep the power steering. My civic doesnt have ps. When I first got the car that was my biggest complaint. Im used to it now so its not so bad. Whenever I drive my girlfriends grand am sometimes and I remember how nice it is to have power steering and I miss it though.

Im so jealous. I was leaning towards supercharging.

ive never has PS in a civic doesnt bother me at all

Im so jealous. I was leaning towards supercharging.

Are you still thinking about doing it, or did you change your mind? Are you planning on doing this to your D16? Or swapping the motor out first?

I say keep the power steering. My civic doesnt have ps. When I first got the car that was my biggest complaint. Im used to it now so its not so bad. Whenever I drive my girlfriends grand am sometimes and I remember how nice it is to have power steering and I miss it though.

ive never has PS in a civic doesnt bother me at all

I appreciate the input guys. I will be removing the PS.

Since my compression was good, I think if I adjusted the valves, I'm good to go. But it's a slushbox.

^^ Wait, your car is an auto? I had no idea.

Quick update... took the head off, replaced the dowel pins and head gasket, moved a whole sh!t load of vacuum tubing/coolant hoses around and deleted P/S. The bay looks a lot nicer now and I am loving the feedback feel in the steering wheel when turning. I just have to get used to parallel parking and turning my car around in a tight spot without P/S. It'll come with time. I'll have pics tomorrow of how everything looks.

Bad News: the oil leak is still present. However, I still can justify having to buy a replacement HG since the head needed to come off to replace the dowel pins, remove P/S, and re-arrange most all hoses etc. It was a lot easier to move everything around with half the motor out of the bay.

Good News: My buddy and I were looking everything over since it was still leaking oil a little and realized it is my cam seal (it is a little wet and has some blackish type residue around it. Should be a fixed with $15 and about 2 hours of work. Hopefully, getting that done by the end of the week.

RC 440's have been ordered and are on their way now! Should be here early next week. All I have to do it clean up the injector clip wiring and I'll be good to go from then on (well, until my clutch goes out).

Pics of the bay as it sits now:

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay1022091.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay1022093.jpg

Much cleaner without any of the P/S stuff and all that crazy vacuum tubing around. Also, thank you Addiction for my newest gauge.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/FuelPresGauge.jpg

btw if you just wanna cheapie boost gauge they sell cheap ones at autozone and advance auto

I'm cheaper than cheap, just remember that. All I could find at autozone/advanced auto parts/pepboys were mechanical autometer gauges for at least $60. I'll pass on that right now.

i bought a $25 sunpro and it was made by snap-on
never used it 94chb has it now

My newest addition: RC SL9-440's

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/RC440s1.jpg

Should be installed tonight. I'll also end up shrink tubing all the wiring for the injectors tonight as well to make everything look better.

Does anyone know what will need to be done in order for these to run 100% in my car???? I am speaking of the tuning aspect. Anyone else have a s300 and tunes their car themselves? Do I just simply change the injector size in Hondata (Smanager) from 240 to 440 and then I'm done? I do know that these injectors do not require a resistor box as they are saturated (high impedance), and I already have the OBD1 injectors clips installed. I appreciate any input.

Quick update.... actually out with a buddy right now and in process of making a new tune for the 440's. Randomly found a free wi-fi connection and decided to update the thread.

Tuning in progress!!!

Been busy the past couple days with a bunch of non-civic related stuff. Here are two updated pics of the engine bay at the moment. The injector wires have been heat shrinked, wrapped in electrical tape, and tucked away as best as possible. If anyone has a suggestion on how they could be hidden more so, or if they would look better if tucked in a different spot, post it up!

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay1028091.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay1028092.jpg

Next, tucking the two massive wire looms that are chillin' on my driver side strut tower wall.

Updated pic:
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay1031091.jpg

So far I have been able to tuck one of the big looms of wire on the driver side strut tower, and the driver headlight harness is hidden away out of sight. I'll figure out someway to hide it. Maybe it will be done tonight, but it is raining, so no promises. Once that is dealt with, I'll begin cleaning up the wires coming from the battery and the ground wires.

I also recently received and installed new climate control light bulbs. Believe it or not, this is the first time the CC lights work since I have owned the car (since March 2007). I can now see what setting the Climate control is on at night! haha

Along with the CC bulbs, I bought a new Cam seal. I need to place another order on hondapartsdeals.com for a Grommet to cover the hole in the firewall where the Cruise Control was pulled out, antenna block off (I found it on the website for $3), and a Cam Gear Key (which I JUST found out that it's made, I have been trying to figure out how to install my Skunk2 cam gear for quite some time now......all along, there was a key that I could order from Honda!)

No big deal, but last night, I spent 3 hours soldering and heat shrinking connections. A while ago (before the Hondata came around), I was using an Apex-i VAFC which was cut and spliced into the original ECU wiring harness. Once the VAFC was pulled out, the connections that were re-made were simply electrical taped together and kinda looked like sh!t. So, now that won't bother me any longer.

Oh yea, I'm working on something special for the intake set-up. Hopefully, everything will work out according to plan. Pics will be up once it is completed. Right now, I have only made a cardboard version of what I want to do. I'll be picking a sheet of aluminum at the local Home Depot within the next few days to construct my vision.

Looking forward to seeing your construction. If it turns out like you hope perhaps we will get a new addition to the DIY section?

^^ It'll basically just be a sheet of aluminum cut to size and using OEM bolt holes for mounting. I'll have pics of the construction when I get around to actually doing it.

After 4 hours of work, the last big wire loom has been hidden away. I have it snaked through the fender well (at the top so it wouldn't be touched when I turn the wheel). Here's an updated pic:

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/EngineBay111094.jpg

Ordered my Cam gear key, Cruise control block off grommet, IAT Plug today! Might be ordering the dual gauge pod bezel and boost gauge today, too! Gotta check the funds after I go to Pepboys and get some supplies.

Well, I pulled the whole front end off again today in order to clean up some of the wires a little more. The wiring for the turn signal/sidemarker/and windshield washer fluid pump were hanging down in the wheel well a little. This happened because I brought that big loom of wire into the fender well. No problems so far.

I then hooked everything back up, and started testing all the electronics, as well as warming the car up, just to make sure everything was done right. Well, it seems as if I messed up a wire for my driver (left) turn signal since it was blinking fast because it was not working. However, when the headlights were on, the parking lights worked. When the hazards and headlights were on, the turn signal bulb lit up as the parking light, and also flashed with the hazards. But only when the left turn signal was activated, the bulb didn't blink. Ugh.......my first electrical issue.

Hopped in my car, drove over to pepboys to get a new bulb. Thinking that would be the cheapest and easiest fix to the problem, I bought a set of bulbs. Got back in the car to drive home. In order for me to get back to my house, I have to make three left turns (since Pepboys is in town and it is all a bunch of one way streets). While sitting at the second light to turn left, I realized my blinker wasn't out and was working 100% perfect. Go figure. I'll keep an eye on it. Hopefully, this won't be an intermittent problem.

Lastly, I am getting a CEL. It only came on when I drove the car for about 5 minutes. If the car was on, but not moving, no CEL. As soon as I started to drive, it came on, and stayed on until I shut the car off. Plugged the ECU into my laptop and found out I am throwing a code for my Speed sensor. I am thinking it is a simple wiring issue, so it should be fixed tonight.

hey i had same issue when i did my tuck, the relays and stuff by the front rad support that have bolts holdind them to the frame must be bolted back up its their ground, i put bolts back into them and all my electric issues were fixed, looks great man, i still need to do my driverside, i did the hard side first, ill prob do my driver side tmw,

^^ I didn't touch a relay or any grounds at all. Basically just cut the 13 wires that were in that loom, extended them, snaked them through the fender well, and then re-connected the plastic clips that needed to be plugged in. Regardless, I drove around for about 45 minutes last night and not once did I have a problem with my turn signal.

Additionally, I was able to fix my CEL for the speed sensor wire. I recently did some work to the ecu wiring, and when doing that I noticed that a few of the wires on the conversion harness were cut, and then electrical taped together. So I went ahead and soldered them and heat shrunk the connections. Apparently, the VSS was one of the connections I re-did. Long story short, the pin came loose and fell out. A quick fix and no more CELs.

My son will be getting picked up for the day, so I just might start working on the Aluminum intake box set-up. Otherwise, I might just sit around and relax. Had a disappointing night last night when I was watching the Phillies lose to the Yanks. Ugh.

can you post pics of how you ran your wire tuck? i did mine and i didnt cut anything, i didnt have to make any wires longer either.

^^ Yea, I'll snap some next time I have the fender off. I was thinking about taking pictures yesterday when I finished it up for the most part, but didn't have time since I needed to run some errands, and I had my son running around in the yard, so my work speed was already cut in half.

Instead of working on the aluminum intake box thing I devised, I will be meeting up with a friend. Him and I will be taking the cam gear & camshaft out to replace the cam seal. Since I now have the Honda Cam gear key, I should be able to install the adjustable Skunk2 cam gear as well. I may even end up playing around with the timing just for sh!ts and giggles. Yes, I do know I won't be able to tell if any extra power is being generated from advancing or retarding the timing until I get on a dyno. Anyone have any input as to whether or not I should advance or retard the timing? I do know for turbo's, retarding the timing essentially allows the combustion to occur within the turbo to have the turbo spool faster. But what would you do with a Supercharger? Still retard the timing, or advance it?

I am also hoping to remove my windows today, spray the window tracks down with some type of silicone lube, and re-align the windows in the tracks. I am getting some slow movement from both sides. It always happens when the weather gets colder and I am hoping this helps fix it.

New cam seal is in! Also, the Skunk2 Cam gear is in!

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Skunk2CamgearInstalled.jpg

Instead of leaking a big amount of oil (about the diameter of a basketball) on the ground over night after driving, it is now about the diameter of a quarter. Also, there are little dime sized oil dots which looks to be coming from the corners of the oil pan. I will be getting a new oil pan/gasket ASAP.

Tonight, the plan is to take off the driver fender, sand down the corners where it meets the door and spray it with a little rustoleum black. When I was doing the wire tuck, the fender fell (somehow) and nicked up the corner. A little brown is starting, so I will stop it before it becomes an issue. 94chb was asking for some shots of how I snake the wire through the fender well, so I'll post some tonight. I am also thinking about buying some of the rubberized spray coating to spray the fender wells with. Trying to simply make it look cleaner and what not.

Also, I plan on cleaning up the garage and my work area up 100%. Doesn't seem like much, but it will actually be a pretty big project. lol!

Edit: Almost forgot, tires rotation tonight, too. The front ones have taken a minor beating within the past 3 weeks or so. Hoping to have these tires last until spring 2010.

yea post those pics if you dont mind kthx

^^ Here ya go 94chb...... I also ended up painting the fender wells with rubberized undercoat spray.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Tuckedwire115091.jpg

Also, I received my IAT plug. Wired it in and started playing with the laptop to check the temps. During a 2nd & 3rd gear pull, my IATs are around 165-170ish (degrees that is). Wayyyyyy too high! I believe stock Civics usually run around 100 or so degrees. So a buddy and I decided to attempt to lower the intake temps. We did the hood washer trick. Before anyone thinks this is rice or anything, I will say that my IATs dropped to about 140-150ish after this was done, so hate if you want, but it works. Here's a quick pic. I ended up using 6 washers for the rear bolt and four for the front bolt.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Hoodpropped115092.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Hoodpropped115091.jpg

It's starting to get a little too cold outside and in my garage, so progress will begin to slow down. Plus, I need to save money and spend it on Christmas gifts and whatnot. The next thing will be some type of intake set-up. I am still trying to figure out exactly how I want it to look, so I am in the middle of tossing a bunch of ideas around.

have you thought about maybe an intercooler?
did you tuck the other side?

Thinking about the intercooler idea as a possibility. Nothing tucked on the passenger side as of yet.

i did passenger side first... it looked more pain to do, but it wasnt to bad, i put my fuse box on the sub frame for now, until prob next year when it warms up and i can spend a day putting it under the dash, right now im havin problems i believe with my alternator, the bat light comes on when its idling when i push the gas alittle and the rpms go up the light goes off, ive had to jump my car 4 times already.

^^ That sucks (about having to jump the car etc etc)

I want to hide all the wires on the passenger side at one time (instead of doing one at a time) to avoid repetitive work. I also will not be moving the fuse box. The battery may be moved into the trunk. I would get a dry cell if the battery was relocated. Like I said, it'll be a minor tuck to hide most of the ugly wire looms which reside in my bay. My son is getting picked up today, so I will have some time to work on the car. I just need to make the decision whether or not if I feel like freezing my a$$ off while doing it. Around here, it has been about 30 degrees at night for the past few nights.

I have also been thinking about getting a catch can since they are cheap and can't be too hard to install. It would be mounted where my charcoal canister currently sits, so that would have to come out first (along with the hard lines and such).

Its 70 degrees out here and only went down to like 55 last night. It sucks trying to do anything when its freezing out. Do you have a garage? I use a little space heater and it works pretty well.

^^ Yea, I do work in the garage to avoid the wind for the most part. However, my mom's bowflex thing, my step-sister's drum set, and the family's foosball table (I swear none of which gets used), prevents me from pulling the whole car into the garage and shutting the door. We even have a little heater in the garage, too. But I cannot use it since I am unable to shut the garage. Well, I could turn it on, but I don't have any $$ to kick over to the rents for the electricity it consumes, and it probably wouldn't help with the temps since the garage door is open.

I usually just step inside for a few minutes to warm up if I need to. It sucks that I use the garage the most, but can hardly use it at all. lol Oh well. It's also funny to think that there is barely enough room to keep a motorcycle in there and it's a 2 car garage!

So sell the unused drums and exercise equipment while they are gone and put the money towards your car. Sounds like the only logical solution.

^^ True, it would be a much needed money boost for me.....er, I mean my car.

First, pics of the new ground wires... No big deal, but much nicer looking than stock IMO.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Groundwires3111909.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/Groundwires2111909.jpg

Today, I went over to a friends house. When I pulled up, I saw this random intake piping sitting in his yard next to a trash can. It was from his 97 Prelude he used to drive. Anyways, I took it, cut a few pieces off of it, and this is what I have come up with for the time being.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/IntakeSet-up1111909.jpg

Now, remember that custom intake thing I am planning on. Well, this is the first edition....soon to be multiple changes, but for now, this will do fine.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/CustomTube2111909.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk152/cvcrcr99/Car/IntakeSet-up4111909.jpg

^In this pic, you can see where the "custom" piping will feed the intake with cooler air coming from the fog light bezel.... Now I just have to go buy a set of fog bezels and finish the fitment.

Edit: Forgot to add that a z6 oil pan is on it's way! Hopefully, this will be the end of oil leaks coming from the car.

lol ive done that intake thing b4 using dryer ducting it was sooo ricey
urs is fine though

lol ive done that intake thing b4 using dryer ducting it was sooo ricey
urs is fine though

A buddy of mine actually told me to get a 6'' dryer duct and have that as the air feed tube last night. I definitely had to pass on that. I honestly think that 6" duct would protrude into my wheel well and have rubbing issues. lol

you need to make a pipe, so when you wanna run it down the strip you can take off the filter and hook the pipes together ;)

you need to make a pipe, so when you wanna run it down the strip you can take off the filter and hook the pipes together ;)

Oooooohhh.....that's a good idea. Never thought about that actually.

Basically, something like this is what I am going for...

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/23000165/Images/1/AF0001.jpg

(^pic from ebay, I'm not spending $20 on it, I would rather go to Home depot, spend $5 on a sheet of aluminum and make it myself.)

In process of making the intake shield thingy now, pics will be up tonight if it gets done.

Also, I went and picked up a new set of powered mirrors, a headliner, side moldings, and a set of A-pillars.

I needed new mirrors since one broke in a minor accident (see first page), and put back together using Gorilla glue and homemade brackets. The motor didn't work after that as well. I need new side moldings since the passenger ones I have now have a few little chunks missing and some clips broken off.

The headliner will be re-wrapped a dark gray color, and the A-pillars will be painted to match. My interior will not have the tan pillar pieces and be 100% gray/dark gray/black. I am hoping it'll look nice.