Engine & Internal Chat about beefing up your engine's insides here.

Rebuilding '86 CRX Si to stock

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 04-22-2008, 02:44 PM
addiction2bass's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Brownsburg, IN 46112
Posts: 11,203
Default RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock

hum....
i know my old 86dx had that rear mounted spoiler removed. it had those back holes just quickly bondod over, and fell out when i had it.LOL


i see 3 different types of spoilers there... i thought there was only 2. hum. LOL

guess i didnt see that many crxs. you could always pull the headliner down and check out the sunroof more. not to hard to take the interior apart. took me 1 hour to figure out how to put it all back in, from the kid i bought it from did WEIGHT REDUCTION BS!!!!!! luckely he kept the parts and i figured out how it all went back in and only missed 3screws.LOL tho if i got another crx id want the newer gen with the back hatch with the glass in it...


i had a TURD 86dx. stupid carberator! of course mine was messed up as well.... secondaries never kicked in!
and a rusted out 84HF parts car.

 
  #22  
Old 04-22-2008, 03:18 PM
jamned's Avatar
HCF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 267
Default RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock

my craigslist RSS feed shows 95% 2nd gen CRX's. It really makes me wish that I got one of those. The plus side to owning a first gen crx is that it's lighter and the front suspension is a torsion bar instead of coilover springs (what?! torsion bar a plus side?! -- torsion bars offer lighter unspring weight than a coilover)

I think there were only 2 spoiler types in the pictures I saw.

I want to get this car up and running so I can learn how to drive stick and have a high mpg dd. Originally, I wanted to prepare the car for a swap and have a lightweight car that could haul. With all the stuff wrong with this car, I might be better off starting with a different base chassis.

Edit: oh yeah, my favorite part about this car is that it's mpfi... no more carbureted crap like in my 87 civic
 
  #23  
Old 04-22-2008, 04:46 PM
addiction2bass's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Brownsburg, IN 46112
Posts: 11,203
Default RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock

ya the MPFI kicks the crap outta the carb setup! from what ive heard the COMPLETE carb rebuild kits are a HUGE PITA to find!

worst part about older crxs is RUST...... i wish i had pictures of my old 84 HF.... it was super light weight... light weight from factory and even lighter from rust.LOL i swear my torsion bar was ready to rip loose from the car!!! suprisingly it never did while driving it around the yard ruff. i wanted it to fold up but it just didnt.LOL
it was super sized fist rust holes around the torsion bar mounting location!
it was bad! ended up selling it cheap to a guy for parts. same reason i bought it... always cheaper to have a whole decent car than it is to buy new parts.LOL

 
  #24  
Old 04-28-2008, 10:09 PM
jamned's Avatar
HCF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 267
Default RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX Si to stock

Okay, so I didn't pass smog 2 weeks ago. I had high HC, but that passed. I didn't pass the CO test at 25 mph, but passed at 15 mph. I've run some basic diagnostics, and I figured out that my o2 sensor is good. My map sensor also appeared to be good.

This is when the problem started.

Checking the map sensor involved disconnecting the vacuum hose running to it and applying vacuum with a hand pump. I applied 40 mmHg of vacuum then performed the test according to my service manuals. After that, I didn't reconnect the map sensor right away. I was sitting in the driver's seat, so I decided to rev the engine a few times. I heard some pops in the muffler (which is a fat rice can, in case you hadn't noticed in the pictures). I don't know why I didn't stop, but I continued to tap the accelerator. Then I heard some pops in the engine bay, of the same variety that I heard in the muffler. This freaked me out so I turned the key off.

Now I also tried to spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body while the engine was running. My memory of the night is out of order, so I can't remember if I did this before or after the popping. In any event, I later remembered that I applied some rtv between the throttle body gasket and the t/b + butterfly valves. I'm thinking that maybe the carb cleaner could've dissolved some of that rtv, which the engine would've sucked into the intake manifold and possibly into the engine. I don't think this is likely, but I'm presenting the two things I did which I think could've caused the problem. (I admit that revving the engine with constant vacuum on the MAP sensor and using rtv and/or carb cleaner in the throttle body were bad decisions on my part, lets not focus on that =P)


Now...the problem: I start the car, if it catches, then it idles at around 300 rpm. Opening the throttle a little bit or all the way to WOT has little to no effect. The idle may climb as high as 1000 rpm.

Things I have tested/eliminated:

-Fuel pump, pressure regulator, injectors: I used a fuel pressure tester and the pressure I get at the service bolt is 40 PSI dead-head (key at "on", didn't crank), and 39-41 PSI when "idling". The pressure regulator could be bad, but from what I've read, the pressure should rise slowly or have too many PSI. Neither was the case. I recently replaced the injectors with remanufactured ones. It's possible that one or more are the wrong type. Tomorrow, I'm going to test if any individual one is bad by running it and disconnecting/reconnecting each injector electric connector, checking to see if the idle drops.

-Spark plugs: pulled, look good, albeit a little dark and a little wet. One su****iously had a centimeter-thick ball of lint on the electrode. Very strange, but it could've been a dirty intake.

-Spark plug wires, distributor: used a spark plug tester to check all wires for spark, all looked good. The distributor is also a new/remanufactured one.

-o2, catalyst: the catalytic converter might be poisoned, but it isn't melted and blocking the exhaust. How do I know? I took the exhaust manifold off and the car still idles at 300 rpm. (I think it was actually 500 rpm before I took the exhaust off).

-gas: I added half a gallon to the tank. There wasn't much in there to start with, but I just wanted enough to be sure that the pump wasn't sucking in air sometimes.

-compression: this is questionable, but I can't do a "proper" compression test. I compression-tested the engine cold (with such a low idle, I can't warm it up). The pressures were 90-90-80-80 psi. At first, I thought that these numbers could be just about right because the piston rings won't seal well when cold. They could still be way too low even with that in mind, though.

So, that's all I've done so far (that I can think of), thanks for reading all the way through to here. If you have an suggestions or ideas on what the problem might be, or even a relevant keyword I could search for (I tried searching for "hesitation" and "staggering"), please do share!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zerosystmusr
Engine & Internal
1
09-12-2006 12:50 AM
importtuner666
Engine & Internal
1
06-12-2006 10:45 PM
fglaustin
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
1
06-08-2006 03:47 PM
Thorium
New Member Introductions
6
04-05-2006 05:26 PM
ohbiskits
Engine & Internal
23
12-14-2004 03:47 PM



Quick Reply: Rebuilding '86 CRX Si to stock



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:45 AM.