DaOne's del Sol Project
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,224
From: Sparks Nv.
Yeah i dont know about the EK front end. lol
i guess it can look good if done right. there's one around here where i live, and it doesnt look all that good to me for some reason,like if something was off. just not sure what it is.
yeah i have some LEDs on my dome light in my civic that i made myself with strips of LEDs. and i might end up doing the same for the del sol, but i think the idea of floor lights when door opened would be pretty cool too lol.
i guess it can look good if done right. there's one around here where i live, and it doesnt look all that good to me for some reason,like if something was off. just not sure what it is.
yeah i have some LEDs on my dome light in my civic that i made myself with strips of LEDs. and i might end up doing the same for the del sol, but i think the idea of floor lights when door opened would be pretty cool too lol.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 11,417
From: FL
"3022-x4 LED Festoon bulb" from http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2Ffestoon.html
Under "LED Festoon Bulbs" (2nd section), click "see prices & buy".
I recommend this exact bulb, and not the more expensive ones... reason being, this one is plenty bright, and since it doesn't have anything sticking out from the bulb, you can rotate it so that the LEDs point a little bit forward in the car so that the light goes towards the center of the inside of the car and not just straight down so its lighting up the rear storage bins. The 9-LED bulb is a little too big and the dome light cover will push right up against it. You can't "rotate" this bulb either. The "High Power LED Festoon Bulbs" won't touch the dome light cover, but since the LEDs are on a circuit board the protrudes from the bulb, you probably can't "rotate" the bulb very much. Being able to "rotate" the bulb to point the light in the proper direction is more of a concern on del Sols than Civics, because on the Civics the dome light is in the center of the vehicle, but on the del Sol it is in the same position relative to the driver's seat, but since there are no back seats, there is no reason to be lighting up the area behind the driver's seat very much.
Sorry for the wall of text.
You can also use the same exact bulb for your trunk light (works great! nice bright trunk) I would go with the "High Power LED Festoon Bulbs" for that one though since it is already pointing in the proper direction... you'd get more light output with that bulb. The "3022-x4 LED Festoon bulb" would be adequate though, that's what I use.
3022 is the size you need.
For floor lights I used Oznium 2.4" White LED strips. For the passenger side, I removed the glove box and zip tied the LED strip to the back of the crossbeam (for lack of a better word) with the LEDs pointing down. On the driver's side I zip tied the LEDs to a wire harness running sideways across the underside of the dash. I routed the wires underneath the center console along with the factory wire harness, then at the back of the car underneath the rear bins I followed the wire harness towards the passenger side of the car, then up the side behind the panels (make sure you put the wires in a way that the seatbelt doesn't interfere with them), and underneath the roof panel (not the targa, but the panel where the dome light is) and to the dome light. Now, before you do wiring, remove the dome light fuse so you don't end up blowing the fuse. Then what you have to do is wire the wires to the contacts on the dome light that go to the bulb (NOT the contacts that the factory dome light wiring goes to... reason being, you need to wire to the contacts that the switch controls, which are the bulb's contacts)
These are the floormats I have. Make sure to read the description for info about colors and embroidery (logo).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...#ht_722wt_1167
This is what they look like with the embroidery (black with white logo)
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...&postcount=610
Under "LED Festoon Bulbs" (2nd section), click "see prices & buy".
I recommend this exact bulb, and not the more expensive ones... reason being, this one is plenty bright, and since it doesn't have anything sticking out from the bulb, you can rotate it so that the LEDs point a little bit forward in the car so that the light goes towards the center of the inside of the car and not just straight down so its lighting up the rear storage bins. The 9-LED bulb is a little too big and the dome light cover will push right up against it. You can't "rotate" this bulb either. The "High Power LED Festoon Bulbs" won't touch the dome light cover, but since the LEDs are on a circuit board the protrudes from the bulb, you probably can't "rotate" the bulb very much. Being able to "rotate" the bulb to point the light in the proper direction is more of a concern on del Sols than Civics, because on the Civics the dome light is in the center of the vehicle, but on the del Sol it is in the same position relative to the driver's seat, but since there are no back seats, there is no reason to be lighting up the area behind the driver's seat very much.
Sorry for the wall of text.
You can also use the same exact bulb for your trunk light (works great! nice bright trunk) I would go with the "High Power LED Festoon Bulbs" for that one though since it is already pointing in the proper direction... you'd get more light output with that bulb. The "3022-x4 LED Festoon bulb" would be adequate though, that's what I use.
3022 is the size you need.
For floor lights I used Oznium 2.4" White LED strips. For the passenger side, I removed the glove box and zip tied the LED strip to the back of the crossbeam (for lack of a better word) with the LEDs pointing down. On the driver's side I zip tied the LEDs to a wire harness running sideways across the underside of the dash. I routed the wires underneath the center console along with the factory wire harness, then at the back of the car underneath the rear bins I followed the wire harness towards the passenger side of the car, then up the side behind the panels (make sure you put the wires in a way that the seatbelt doesn't interfere with them), and underneath the roof panel (not the targa, but the panel where the dome light is) and to the dome light. Now, before you do wiring, remove the dome light fuse so you don't end up blowing the fuse. Then what you have to do is wire the wires to the contacts on the dome light that go to the bulb (NOT the contacts that the factory dome light wiring goes to... reason being, you need to wire to the contacts that the switch controls, which are the bulb's contacts)
These are the floormats I have. Make sure to read the description for info about colors and embroidery (logo).
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...#ht_722wt_1167
This is what they look like with the embroidery (black with white logo)
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...&postcount=610
Last edited by trustdestruction; Aug 23, 2010 at 11:36 AM.
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HCF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,224
From: Sparks Nv.
AWESOME. Thanks a lot Trust. You really know your stuff! Now i know exactly what to order and wont waste money on things that wont work right. lol
yeah im really surprised why they would put the dome light back there... all it does is berly light up the little compartments back there.
Good call on the trunk light. i almost forgot about that one. That light is just as bad as the lighting in the cabin.
BTW, does the cluster/climate controls/switches have the same number of light bulbs as the EG's and stuff? I Also want to redo all that at the same time i buy the other lights so that i wont have to pay shipping twice.
Thanks again!
So I've been doing a lot of reading up on running N2O on d16z6's.
But i know i still need to do more. Last thing i want is blowing my motor while hooking it up. HAHA!
I've just been trying to find local shops that will refill N2O. And looking for a tunner locally.
Summit Racing refills Nitrous bottles for 8 Dollars PER POUND!!! thats crazy. that would come out to about $80 dollars for a little 10lb bottle...
yeah im really surprised why they would put the dome light back there... all it does is berly light up the little compartments back there.
Good call on the trunk light. i almost forgot about that one. That light is just as bad as the lighting in the cabin.
BTW, does the cluster/climate controls/switches have the same number of light bulbs as the EG's and stuff? I Also want to redo all that at the same time i buy the other lights so that i wont have to pay shipping twice.
Thanks again!
So I've been doing a lot of reading up on running N2O on d16z6's.
But i know i still need to do more. Last thing i want is blowing my motor while hooking it up. HAHA!
I've just been trying to find local shops that will refill N2O. And looking for a tunner locally.
Summit Racing refills Nitrous bottles for 8 Dollars PER POUND!!! thats crazy. that would come out to about $80 dollars for a little 10lb bottle...
Last edited by DaOne; Aug 23, 2010 at 12:08 PM.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 11,417
From: FL
Don't do nitrous, it's stupid. Low cost upfront, but you'll be paying for nitrous refills forever. Turbo or supercharger is a better idea because all the cost is upfront. Plus, nitrous isn't street legal, whereas turbo and supercharger are.
Cluster uses 7 bulbs, climate control uses 2. They are size 74 bulbs.
Use the "74-xHP3" bulb from here, it's under "Instrument Panel and Gauge LED Wedge Base bulbs". Those are the best option, they work great. I have experimented with lots of different bulbs and these work best.
Cluster uses 7 bulbs, climate control uses 2. They are size 74 bulbs.
Use the "74-xHP3" bulb from here, it's under "Instrument Panel and Gauge LED Wedge Base bulbs". Those are the best option, they work great. I have experimented with lots of different bulbs and these work best.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 11,417
From: FL
"NEOx LED Instrument bulb" under "NeoWedge series LED Lamp" at this link.
You need 3mm. For the indicators you need two green (AUX/cruise) and one amber (defroster). For the hazard light backlight get a red. For the other 3 backlights, get whatever color you want... probably you want it to match the gauge cluster/climate control.
Warning though... they have to be modified to fit, as in the second half of this DIY by danomatic.
You need 3mm. For the indicators you need two green (AUX/cruise) and one amber (defroster). For the hazard light backlight get a red. For the other 3 backlights, get whatever color you want... probably you want it to match the gauge cluster/climate control.
Warning though... they have to be modified to fit, as in the second half of this DIY by danomatic.
Thread Starter
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HCF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,224
From: Sparks Nv.
ok cool! yeah i know it probably had to be modified.
Yeah good points on the nitrous vs Turbo.
but everyone tells me its the most bang for your buck. but yeah like you said it would be more money on the long run..
Yeah good points on the nitrous vs Turbo.
but everyone tells me its the most bang for your buck. but yeah like you said it would be more money on the long run..
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,184
From: Texas
hey another way you could wire in the led floor lights would be using the door trigger as the ground and any 12 volt constant wire for the power. The door trigger is a green/red (-) under the driver side running board or at the physical door pin. The best +12v would be at the ignition harness, solid white heavy gauge wire. Simply connect the corresponding wires from the led strips to the correct wires in the car.
I'm not sure if this would operate different from the way Trust recommended, but this would they would turn on ONLY when one of the doors is open, and there would be no way to have them on with the doors closed.
I'm not sure if this would operate different from the way Trust recommended, but this would they would turn on ONLY when one of the doors is open, and there would be no way to have them on with the doors closed.