what happened with this?? i say dont sell it if you havent. i was 17 owned my dream car. sure it was a car that most people laughed at, but everyday i regret selling it. and its been over a year.

 

Alright *****, here's the low down. I've been trolling on here but haven updated this thread. My car sucks and nobody wants it, pretty sure bumpers are what's holding it back. Got some offers but nothing that is enough for mento let go of it. So since there's some car shows coming up in the next weekend and the one after I'm doing some stuff to the turd. I swapped out my pos blox rear lca's for some function7 yesterday. Blox bushings were toast, nice to have legit parts on it. Hopefully getting a gsr trans this weekend which means b16 will go in. My y8 is throwing a random misfire code again for the second time in a week, last time it was leaving work and I messed around with stuff and it went away. Now today it threw it again when I was going to leave for work so I'll have to figure that out so I can sell the motor and video tape it not throwing any codes. I'll get pics and **** MAYBE, I'm lazy.

 

Yay, keep the car around!

Selling stuff (no matter what it is) always seems like it would be a seamless process, but in reality, it is just a big PITA.

 

Okay ****** more updates. Good things and bad things have happened.... I got f'ed on a trans a few weeks back. I failed to look in to the guys contradicting story and ended up buying an ls trans instead of a gsr, lost $100 on that.

I ordered some of the last bits of my suspension. I bought an itr rear sway bar from work, only costs me $78 lol. Ordered a Blackworks rear subframe in silver, showed up today and open the box and the idiots sent me lower control arms. Stupid, so now I wait, and bitch.

My alternator belt squeals like crazy and I had to retighten it 3 times in the last like 2 weeks. This morning going to work it was going nuts, pulled it in to the shop after work, put it up on the hoist (had to jack the car up to get the arms under it LOL), only to find that one bolt for the lower alternator bracket was completely missing and the other was backed all the way out, just can't fall out since the alternator blocks it from doing so. So I put a new bolt in and blah blah blah it is all good now. Damn car rattles so much bolts are coming out lol.

Pissed to find that my left front wheel bearing is getting pretty loose. Just put new front ones in in January... I guess that's what I get for cheaping out on them. Have a one year warranty but not going to waste my time putting new pieces of ****'s in, going to get an oem one and suck it up.

Other than all that it is the usual... beating the sh*t out of my car and killing tires, think my single cam might be burning a little oil now. Threw in the Drop Engineering motor mounts, only the side 2, for show car status. My car usually gets a lot of attention and I figured they would add a little pizzaz, increased my rattles in the car a little bit, but seemed to solve my exhaust rattle, or cover it up with other rattles.

I'm in the midst of texting a guy right now who has a totaled gsr and will sell me the trans, linkage, and axles for a decent price. Hopefully going to see it working in the car a day this week then pick it up and then it'll be swap time!

 

Ewwww. blackworks subframe brace.

When I installed my engine mounts, my altenator started rattled almost immediately. The lower bolt back out a while ago and I never noticed. Apparently it is common. I put a new bolt with a nylon locking nut on it and never had a problem since.

Post a pic of the Drop mounts! They probably look better in your bay than they did in mine.

 

K moar updates of nothingness that are pictureless.

Blackworks subframe is on, looks good, that's about it. Will not buy one again, fitment was not well, there would've been a gap between the brace and the subframe of about a 1/4", but thanks to the Beaks bar brackets I shoved there they filled the gap. Also the brace doesn't even support the back of the subframe like any other kit would. Should've bought a Function7 and not be a jew.

My car hates me and I was putting new tires on few weeks back, putting my wheels back on, one of the ARP wheel studs up front decided to spin free in the hub when the Blox lug nut ate its own threads. Long story short I ended up having to break the Blox nut in to pieces (thank god it is aluminum) to actually get my wheel off. Oh and pulled the knuckle with the wheel on the hub- such a bitch popping ball joints free with a wheel in the way. I don't believe in pickle forks, I only hammer (working at a dealership changed me) them loose. So got the wheel off and realized the hub was toast. So I figured I'd find a used replacement hun, went to press it out, maxed out our press at work and heating it with oxy acetelene wouldn't nudge it. Soaked it in pb for a day (used like 2/3 of a can of pb, glad I don't pay for it from work lol), tried again, hammered the **** out of it. Bearing shifted, hub moved an 1/8", then the c clip broke all the steel that holds the c clip in. My knuckle literaly peeled out of the way. I just put this bearing in back in January, so idk what I ****ed but y knuckle was wrecked at that point. Went and bought one off a part out and my cars back on the road.

Lesson learned: tack weld the back of any non original wheel stud to the hub.

I am working on selling this turd b16 again. I decided it will never fulfill what I want for speed, so I am going to sell it. Have it up for $1500 obo, hopefully get around $1200 for it.

So my plans changed from b series to sticking to my d series, I want to fully build the bottom end this winter and boost the **** out of it. I won't be happy unless I make like 3-400 on high psi. I don't want a slow turd anymore, so that is my solution.

Had a little set back today though... someone offered me $3900 for my car. ****. I really have to think this through. I know I can get more out of the kid, he's like 17 and can't drive til he is 18. If I were to sell it I would pull the subframe brace, beaks bar, put stock motor mounts back in, put the blox lca back in and keep the function7, and jack the price up a few 100. Sell all the parts I took off for like $600 easy, sell my b16 for 1200, sell the misc. b series parts I had for the swap for another like $300. 4200 for the car + 600 stuff taken off + 1200 for b16 + 300 misc b swap stuff = $6300 budget to buy a shell and start from scratch. Idk if he wants my wheels either, cause they are worth $3-400 with the new tires. Holy crap I need to think this through haha, could have a ridiculous hatch for that price.....

 

if you do build the d, aren't you worried about spinning a bearing? I hear the Y series is a bearing eater because the oiling system is insufficient (only one oiling groove on each rod bearing or something like that)

If you do go turbo-D, shouldn't you just build a z6 bottom end? Thats been the impression I've gotten from my interweb browsing.

Anyway, good luck with whatever path you take. Its been good to hear an update for you.

 

If you haven't already done so, try to find a 300whp Civic sometime and drive it. Anything more than that just seems pointless to me for street use.

 

I'd take my car to the strip on a regular basis if I built and boosted it, but it'd be high boost making the high power, I'd expect lower 200s for daily driving.

And as for the bearing spinning, mine should've spun a bearing already then. Somehow my oil level was barely on the dip stick a while back and I beat on my car real hard daily since I really don't care what happens. I take my single cam to rev limiter. Doesn't make power way up there, but it's fun and idc lol. Its lasted me thus far, so I have faith.

 

Okay ladies I need opinions. As of right now my car is still mine, kid sto hasn't come to look at my car with his dad. So I need to decide.

1. Fully built bottom end and boosted y8 making 300ish on high boost

OR

2. Found a guy selling his supercharged ek and asked him if he would sell the jrsc. I told him give him $800. He said $700, my intake manifold, and my crank pulley for the entire setup. So option 2 would be doing an entire oem rebuild on my motor, rings, bearings, etc. no need for a full build on a 6 psi pulley and not making crazy power.

Obviously option 2 is much cheaper and much more reliable. When I drive to school I do 80 miles a day, so I kinda wonder if going ***** to the was on a single cam turbo is dumb. At least with the jrsc itll be quick, probably like having a stock gsr.

What do you guys think, i have to give the guy an answer to tomorrow. I know pat will be helpful in my choice, and I think I'm getting a good deal at the price of the jrsc.