Header, Intake, & Exhaust Custom Exhaust? New Headers? Need Opinions on Intakes? Discuss making your ride breathe better here.

$229.04 to install my exhaust system....

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Old May 21, 2009 | 02:48 PM
  #21  
addiction2bass's Avatar
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where the 2piece header bolts together.
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #22  
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On the 2piece header, which way do the bolt's n nuts go? i have 3 long bolts with open ends and 3 nuts...
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 03:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by addiction2bass
IMO most PITA part is the rubber hangers. i use some WD40 and some plumber pliers... put the one side of pliers onto the metal tip and the other side on the rubber hanger and squize the hanger off that way... once the rubber hanger is over the end alittle its easy to remove.
otherwise those dam hangers are a huge PITA!
**** THOSE HANGERS lol
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #24  
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those 3 header bolts doesnt matter how they go in to much... just turn them in as much as you can by hand and then put the nuts on them and tighten em down.

just remember to retorque your bolts after you drive a bit. it may not be needed. i still have to check mine. im to lazy and i dont drive it much.
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #25  
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header on!! i drove it around the block with just the header, and i set off some one car alarm that was on the side of the road. then i went and tighten the header bolts agin, two were lose. im going to keep checking them, beucase i dont want to snap the studs THAT WOULD MAKE ME CRY!!! rest of it will go on tomorrow.


I didnt use RTV on the block, like you said. only on the down pipe.
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #26  
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I'm very glad that you have been able to do this yourself. I feel accomplished every time I can do something myself. DIYs FTW!
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #27  
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and the money saved helps you afford your NEXT MOD as well

if i paid to have all the work done on my vehicles id never have enough cash for half of the mods ive already done!
 
Old May 21, 2009 | 06:25 PM
  #28  
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thanks GUY'S.. I MAY START TO Do MY OWN oil change to, now that i have these ramps, it shouldn't be that hard, drain,fill,check dip stick? what special oil filter tool do i need? . they charge me $55 to change the trans fluid with the fluid i bought.

my oil changes cost $45. i think i can change it myself twice for that price. Whats a good oil filter?
 

Last edited by enigma34; May 21, 2009 at 06:28 PM.
Old May 21, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by enigma34
header on!! i drove it around the block with just the header, and i set off some one car alarm that was on the side of the road. then i went and tighten the header bolts agin, two were lose. im going to keep checking them, beucase i dont want to snap the studs THAT WOULD MAKE ME CRY!!! rest of it will go on tomorrow.


I didnt use RTV on the block, like you said. only on the down pipe.
glad you got it on good, and good to hear you'll be checking those bolts.

make sure to check the midway flange bolts too. that's what caused my repeatedly blowing gasket... i didn't check them and it came loose and blew the gasket... over and over again.


P.S. it's the head not the block




for oil filters I use a K&N... like $10 but it's got a 1" nut welded on the end which makes removal so much easier. Don't get fram, they make crappy filter elements. Mobil1 filters are identical to K&N, except they don't have the welded-on nut and they have different labeling on them. Purolator Gold filters are like $4 and they are GREAT. Highly recommended. Only reason I use K&N over the Purolator is because the welded-on nut makes it that much more convenient, because I am always losing my oil filter wrench... and it's a tight area to work with anyway.
 

Last edited by trustdestruction; May 21, 2009 at 07:42 PM.
Old May 22, 2009 | 12:21 AM
  #30  
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+1 for k&n. Good trust worthy name and they were smart enough to put the nut on top. Yea that area down there is very tight so any help you can get is big. Oil changes are easy, hardest part is keeping it from spilling on ur drive way.
 



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