Hello guys,

My girlfriend’s 94 civic wont start. It's the fuel injection model, the one with central black lid where the air intake comes into.

First of all there was no fuel pump pressure, took off the main relay and bridged point 5 & 7, pump engaged plenty of pressure.

I removed one of the sparks and it seems to be sparking fine.

It looks like there is a solenoid where the fuel enters the injector pump from the fuel filter which doesn’t seems to be doing anything.

With the main relay off, and the 5 & 7 point bridged, is it possible to start the car?

I must admit also I can't feel any clicking from the relay when I turn the ignition, but I'm wondering if it's something else stopping it start overall?

Any hints / tips / pointers would be greatly received.

Thanks

James

 

lol not to be an *** or anything but lol that main relay is kinda for your girls safety . but heres the whole idea. dont bridge anything. if your solder experienced or intermediate then just reflow the points after u take it apart. hondas have relay problems and the solder joints crack from expansion from heat and sometimes wont start the car. go to radioshack and buy a soldering iron or walmart. get some Rosin core solder (dont buy the lead free crap. avoid at all cost) and get some solder paste flux (to help the solder stick) and reflow the terminals once u pop the top cap off (let the bitch heat up, take a blade and scrape the tip of the soldering iron and put a tiny drop of solder flux over each point and touch the iron to each point. the **** will start to smoke and burn into the solder joint and repair it. its not like your soldering in a modchip for a console or the points are really small. if u have ZERO experience you should be able to prevail if you follow everything i just wrote. once u reflowed all the points, reassemble and try to see if it starts. and if your reflowing it add a little bit of the lead core solder to it but not too much. maybe ill write a tutorial later. i have a main relay laying in a box thats still a virgin. the soldering iron should be 7 to 10 dollars, solder maybe 5 bucks. flux maybe 3. as compared to a new relay from autozone, not only is this a cheaper route but a more reliable route. and you get some solder skill down too. hit me back if you need anymore help. o and about the safety **** i wrote earlier. the main relay is there to cut the fuel pump off if the ecu detects the car stalling (as in getting into a car accident) so that the car dont keep pumping gas out should the fuel line get torn or ruptured. and it works too. i got into my accident and on impact my engine stalled out on me. and she was goin 35 and ran a red while i was trying to do a left hand turn. so yeah stop jumping **** especially if your concerned about ur girls safety. plus u risk burning out the ECU

 

Hiya,

Thanks for your response,

Found a guide to taking apart the replay and resoldering the connectors. Got an iron so hopefully will be capable

If there anything else that would be stopping the relay working other than the relay,

Thanks in advance and I'll let you know how I get on.

PS, regarding starting the car with it bridged, it was more around for testing purposes. The engine management light stays on if the relay is disconnected and as far as I understand the relay runs the injectors too.

James

 

dude solder it up. thats the only thing stoping you at this moment. other than that the relay is pretty solidly built and once its soldered you should be dandy.

 

10 minutes from taking the relay out to her running. Spotted the cracked joint, re-soldered and off she went!!

Thanks

 

if you wana make sure no other joints fail solder em all. its a good piece of mind bro