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95' EX VERY!!! WIERD Starting issue.

Old Aug 24, 2009 | 02:52 PM
  #31  
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In refrence to Mks idea. With the small wire on the starter unpluged, clutch pressed in and turning key to Position lll, I can hear the fuel pump come on and it stays on so long as I have the key turned.

In ref. to RonJ, the dash lights come on when i turn the key to pos. ll and without clutch pressed in pos. lll they stay on.
When it dies the dash lights stay on.
The only time oil/bat lights go off is when Im cranking it.
No CEL at all, which is wierd.
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Young Blood
In refrence to Mks idea. With the small wire on the starter unpluged, clutch pressed in and turning key to Position lll, I can hear the fuel pump come on and it stays on so long as I have the key turned.

In ref. to RonJ, the dash lights come on when i turn the key to pos. ll and without clutch pressed in pos. lll they stay on.
When it dies the dash lights stay on.
The only time oil/bat lights go off is when Im cranking it.
No CEL at all, which is wierd.
Does the fuel pump prime in ON(II)? Do you again lack spark? If not, using mk's ON(III) test, do you also have battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire in the distributor with the distributor cap removed? Be sure to disconnect the Blk/Yel wire from the coil and igniter unit for the latter test. Likewise test for voltage on the Blk/Yel wire with the key in ON(II).
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #33  
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Fuel Pump does prime in Pos. ll
12v present at blk/yel wire

No spark at all on 1-4. Which is BS cause the whole ignition system is new. The Distributor is brand new only a week old. Damn im back to square one now.......
 

Last edited by Young Blood; Aug 24, 2009 at 04:25 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:32 PM
  #34  
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you have a short somewhere in the wiring either in the fuse box under dash or your ignition switch... it seems like its in your ignition switch.
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Young Blood
12v present at blk/yel wire
This is true for both ON(II) and ON(III), right? If so, see my next post.
 

Last edited by RonJ; Aug 24, 2009 at 04:45 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #36  
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Dang, I would have bet money that the ignition switch was bad. Time to move on.

Based on your observations, the next step is to test the Yel/Grn wire attached to the igniter unit. Turn the key to ON(II). What voltage to engine ground do you measure?

Next test the Yel/Grn wire for lack of continuity or a short. With the key off and the Yel/Grn wire disconnected from the igniter unit, test the Yel/Grn wire for a short by looking for continuity to ground. Finally, disconnect ECU connector A and test for a break in the Yel/Grn wire by looking for lack of continuity between terminals A21 or A22 in ECU connector A to the other end of Yel/Grn wire in the distributor.


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Last edited by RonJ; Aug 24, 2009 at 04:50 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #37  
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check your fuse box under the hood make sure that the big fuses have screws on each end of them.
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:51 PM
  #38  
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On the BLK/YEL wire i have 12v in pos ll and 10.96 in pos. lll
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Young Blood
...10.96 in pos. lll
Hmm, don't know why this has a lower voltage. Was this test done with the clutch pedal depressed and the starter cranking?
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #40  
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Ok,

The YEL/GRN wire that is attached to the igniter measured 8 vdc to engine gnd.
The wire had 88kOhms of resistance
Is this ECU connector one the ECU under passnger dash?
 

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