need help setting the timing
i have a jdm b16a dohc just replaced the headgasket here is my problem i didnt mark where they all were(cam shafts, and crank pully) the cylinderhead is put on torqed down and was never set to tdc there appears to be no tdc mark but only two circle indent marks on the inside faceing the engine on the crankshaft pully, i also have skunk 2 adjustable cam gears....so.....yeah kids dont do drugs haha but really could anyone help
First off, set the cam gear adjustments to zero. Stock cam gears have a slash mark on the edge. To set the cams to TDC1, turn them so the two slash marks are facing each other as close as possible on the inside. I don't know about aftermarket gears though, they should have instructions if they don't have similar marks.
Set the cams first before turning the crank. To be sure the crank is at TDC you can take the #1 spark plug out and probe in the cylinder with some sort of metal rod. With the rod touching the top of the piston, turn the crank until it comes up as high as it will go, which is TDC. This should make the marks on the crank gear line up.
Now put the timing belt on and tension it. Turn the crank all the way around twice by hand and check that the cams are again at TDC.
Set the cams first before turning the crank. To be sure the crank is at TDC you can take the #1 spark plug out and probe in the cylinder with some sort of metal rod. With the rod touching the top of the piston, turn the crank until it comes up as high as it will go, which is TDC. This should make the marks on the crank gear line up.
Now put the timing belt on and tension it. Turn the crank all the way around twice by hand and check that the cams are again at TDC.
First off, set the cam gear adjustments to zero. Stock cam gears have a slash mark on the edge. To set the cams to TDC1, turn them so the two slash marks are facing each other as close as possible on the inside. I don't know about aftermarket gears though, they should have instructions if they don't have similar marks.
Set the cams first before turning the crank. To be sure the crank is at TDC you can take the #1 spark plug out and probe in the cylinder with some sort of metal rod. With the rod touching the top of the piston, turn the crank until it comes up as high as it will go, which is TDC. This should make the marks on the crank gear line up.
Now put the timing belt on and tension it. Turn the crank all the way around twice by hand and check that the cams are again at TDC.
Set the cams first before turning the crank. To be sure the crank is at TDC you can take the #1 spark plug out and probe in the cylinder with some sort of metal rod. With the rod touching the top of the piston, turn the crank until it comes up as high as it will go, which is TDC. This should make the marks on the crank gear line up.
Now put the timing belt on and tension it. Turn the crank all the way around twice by hand and check that the cams are again at TDC.
When the cams are set correctly, all of the valves on cylinder #1 will be closed.
It doesn't matter how many times you turn the crank with the timing belt off. The concept of one stroke being compression only applies when the valves are working. You may be overthinking it.
It doesn't matter how many times you turn the crank with the timing belt off. The concept of one stroke being compression only applies when the valves are working. You may be overthinking it.
When the cams are set correctly, all of the valves on cylinder #1 will be closed.
It doesn't matter how many times you turn the crank with the timing belt off. The concept of one stroke being compression only applies when the valves are working. You may be overthinking it.
It doesn't matter how many times you turn the crank with the timing belt off. The concept of one stroke being compression only applies when the valves are working. You may be overthinking it.
You need to take the pulley off to put on a new timing belt, which you really should do unless the one on now is almost new. To just put the head back on you should be able to leave the pulley and lower cover on and work through the hole provided to turn the tensioner bolt.
Loosen the bolt and push the tensioner all the way back against the spring. Tighten the bolt so it stays back while you put the belt on. Then loosen the bolt again and let the tensioner spring push on the belt. Turn the crank counterclockwise about 10 degrees to pull the slack out of the front of the belt. The tensioner spring will take the slack out of the back side. Then while still holding the crank so the front is taut, tighten the tensioner bolt. The bolt must be TIGHT before attempting to start the engine. If the tensioner moves with the engine running, you will have a Bad Time.
Loosen the bolt and push the tensioner all the way back against the spring. Tighten the bolt so it stays back while you put the belt on. Then loosen the bolt again and let the tensioner spring push on the belt. Turn the crank counterclockwise about 10 degrees to pull the slack out of the front of the belt. The tensioner spring will take the slack out of the back side. Then while still holding the crank so the front is taut, tighten the tensioner bolt. The bolt must be TIGHT before attempting to start the engine. If the tensioner moves with the engine running, you will have a Bad Time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
frankfurter3
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
1
Jun 6, 2006 08:00 PM
Legend1011
Engine & Internal
2
Apr 22, 2006 03:09 PM




