Hello Fellow Civic Owners...

I need some assistance. I have a 2000 Civic LX, with just over 108K miles. Bone Stock. The only non-stock item is K&N Air Filter.

When my car it stopped at the light or stop sign, i get a vibration on the steering wheeling and i feel the the car is vibration. It is does not stutter, drop idle or did, just the vibration. I replaced the motor mounts on the car, seemed to help but only a little. Still get the vibration...

Plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributior cap and ingnition rotors are new.

Took it a Honda Shop. The guy looked it over, had nothing bad to say about the car. He is a honda certified mechanic, what he told me is that most of Civic's with D series engine have this problem as they get older......

is he right?

also someone recomended a complete fuel system clean. I call my honda guy he charges $50. I believe he seafoams throght the Vacuum line.. Is it worth it?

Any assistance would be approciated

Thank you

 

You replaced the engine mounts? How many mounts were replaced exactly? Were the lower torque mounts replaced, too?

 

Seafoam is a cheap and easy maintenance step on older Hondas. (Also really smokey and fun to watch!) You can do it yourself easily. Just wait until you're nearly ready for an oil change since 1/3rd of it goes into the crank case.

Mine used to do that at 140K miles. I ended up swapping the engine due to excessive wear, though.

 

I went and had all of them done.

1 in the rear by the firewall, 2 on the sides and 2 lower torque one. maybe i should check trans mount?

Besides this issue that car runs great smooth almost mint, nice pick-up. After reading some on the web and talking to a few more people, this seems to be common on 96-00 Type civics.

One thing i've notice that if i'm stopped, it won't always do it and if i move from D to N it won't do it either. That's why i'm suspecting the fuel system cleaner won't solve it

BTW, thank you for the quick replies

 

You could try adjusting the air bleed screw on the throttle body. Open it as far as you can without having the idle go too high in neutral.

 

Silly question, if i do adjust it the screw, which way do i adjust. LEts say i'm standing in front facing the grill, do i turn clockwise or counter?

 

The screw is the aluminum one about 1/2 inch diameter with the big flat slot in it. Turn counterclockwise to admit more air into the engine which will increase the idle speed beyond what the IACV can do after the ECU moves it wide open.

 

I've located the screw, how many turns would i need to turn it?

 

I honestly don't thing is the idle screw or my idle. The car idle very nice around 800 or so. No hesitation of stuttering, just the vibration. The car is driven around 40 miles a week. Could it be that the new mounts are still stiff?
Or maybe defective mounts....

 

You replaced the worn, ripped (torque) mounts with brand new rubber mounts and you have vibrations in the steering wheel. Seems normal to me at least. I went from having ripped/torn torque mounts, to filling them up with window weld, and having a vibration at idle.

Defective mounts, IMO, would be ones that are ripped, or not made correctly and don't fit. Seeing as they are one the car I doubt it is the latter reason.

800 idle when warm is fine. You can always try to raise or lower it slightly to see how that affects the vibrations, too.