(98 civic ex 5speed coupe)Was driving on my way to work yesterday and out of nowhere my car started surging and misfiring. Managed to limp it to Autozone where I changed the rotor/distributor cap/plugs/plug wires all at once. Then out of nowhere, my dizzy went completely out and had to replace that as well. Long story short, even after replacement of all these parts, the surge and misfire was still there. CEL was flashing and only throwing misfire codes. No sensors, or anything like that were showing up to be checked.

I have tested:

-Resistance on plug wires *good
-all parts of dizzy *new one good
-marks on timing belt *still where they are supposed to be
-Resistance on cranskshaft sensor *good
-checked all fuses and relays *good
-fuel pump *engages and relay clicks
-checked plugs *carbon buildup otherwise good, no oil, coolant or unburned fuel visible


-car runs eratically *smells rich, no smoke, coolant or oil burning


I know I need to do a compression check, but wouldnt a stuck/damaged valve, or bad rings to cause oil or coolant consumption? Also, when accelerating you can clearly hear some kind of tic/air whoosh sound coming from the car.

 

come on guys, I could really use some help on this.

 

My 99 DX has 262K.Bad valve wouln`t cause oil burn,or coolant loss.How many miles on your Civic?
Someone will probally jump on me,but try a can of Seafoam.about 1/3rd can in the intake under air filter,warm engine,pour slowly in,and by hand keep engine at high idle.In the end,drown it out with the liquid.Turn off key,put the rest of the can in full fuel tank.Start it up in about 20 minutes,fast idle&run till the black smoke goes away.May take a few miles to clear up.Probally woun`t help you,but worth a try.I`ve fixed a couple Civics with misfiring [problems like you describe.
You have many issues with the air rushing sound&all.
Possible a cat convertor stopped up?
Do the compression test.My Civic has about 165-170psi if I remember correctly.
Sorry,all I can think of
Regards,Dizz

 

Thanks for the heads up. Usually do the seafoam trick on tune up, I have not performed this in a while though so I will give it a try. Mileage is approx at 160k now by the way.

Also, I want to point out that the tic/air whoosing sound only comes out when it is under load. It does not make the same sound while revving while parked.

So, a possible stuck valve will not cause oil to enter combustion chamber? Hmmmm.... Cant wait to get the tool for the compression check.

Thanks for the heads up. Anything is worth a try at this point. Paid a 150$ to a stupid mechanic that couldnt figure out a damn thing. AND ENDING UP SCHOOLING HIM WITH KNOWLEDGE. Thanks to this forum of course Sad I am out 150$ but the fact that I knew more than he did was priceless.

 

just curious after you installed a new dizzy did you ajust the ignition timing? If off it can cause misfires. A clogged cat,t belt slipped,low compression,weak spark meaning not all gas is being burned. What im saying is there is usually 3 things that causes misfires, air/fuel ratio off,timing and compression. Hope this helps

 

Yes, I did adjust the timing on the dizzy, found the sweet spot. How can I test for a clogged cat? Also how can I test for weak spark? Compression test will also be done when I get the correct tool in. I will also reinspect timing marks for timing belt

 

Update:

I just finished the compression test and think that my gauge is messing up... possibly due to dropping it on the concrete. Anyway, I had to test it cold... also need to add that upon initial 1st cylinder check that it read at 150 (1st time I did 5 cranks), then I dropped the gauge and it started reading it at 50. I wouldnt even find it plausible to even run (which it does) with the numbers I pulled. Almost like its missing 100psi across the board. Yes, I was at WOT.

Here are the numbers:
Cylinder 1: 55
Cylinder 2: 50
Cylinder 3: 50
Cylinder 4: 115

Until I get a new gauge and recheck, I am going to go on the assumption that these numbers are really over 100 psi. At sub 100 reading pretty much across the board, I am sure I would have a lot more issues than misfiring at that point.

Guess my next step is to get another gauge and give it a go. Any other ideas for the troubleshooting?

It is def obvious that something is going on with Cylinder 4. So what is my next step?

 

The engine needs to be warm when testing, IIRC...

Get a new gauge and recheck. If the numbers are off, I would still suspect timing.

 

Set the spark timing to spec with a timing light.

I suspect the Autozone wires may be a problem. Resistance checks don't mean much.

Also it could be a fuel issue like the pressure is wrong.

 

Ok, sounds great! Thank you for the heads up.