Supercharged 2000 si
I have a 2000 si with a jackson racing supercharger 8lbs. I want to upgrade to 11 psi without hondata. I have a boost timing controler and a Jacking racing FMU. Why can't I just put in bigger injectors a 3 bar map sensor.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
it's safer for your engine to use a chipped ECU (hondata) and get it tuned properly. You'll also squeeze the most potential out of your setup by getting it tuned properly with a chipped ECU.
On a piggyback unit like what you are using, the ECU is still always trying to change back to stock what the FMU is altering. With a chipped ECU this won't happen and you can sell the FMU for some $$$.
On a piggyback unit like what you are using, the ECU is still always trying to change back to stock what the FMU is altering. With a chipped ECU this won't happen and you can sell the FMU for some $$$.
Hey
Thanks
I still don't really understand why everyone says stay away from FMUs. It it is boost activated and I put in 472cc injectors, how can it not be safe?
I must be missing something.
Thanks
I still don't really understand why everyone says stay away from FMUs. It it is boost activated and I put in 472cc injectors, how can it not be safe?
I must be missing something.
ORIGINAL: knavin
Hey
Thanks
I still don't really understand why everyone says stay away from FMUs.
Hey
Thanks
I still don't really understand why everyone says stay away from FMUs.
you tune it with the FMU, and then the stock ECU is always trying to adjust itself to cancel out what you altered with the FMU. The stock ECU is always trying to make the car run on stock settings, and as it adjusts itself, the settings that you have changed on the FMU are always becoming less and less effective as the ECU gets closer to making what settings actually come out of the ECU stock.
Think of it as the ECU and FMU each having a number (imaginary) that corresponds to the level of a certain setting. Say that the ECU's basemap value for that setting is "0". Then you change the FMU to make that setting "-2". Well then the ECU is going to try to adjust itself over time to "+2," so that the end result when you combine the two units is an actual setting of "0" again.
Thanks for all the info. The car is my daily driver so it won't see max boost very often andI am trying to keep the budget low. I live in Canada and everything is a lot more expensive up here.
Thanks for all the great info I just wish I had more options.
Thanks for all the great info I just wish I had more options.
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