You make an indentation in the center of the bolt head with a center punch and hammer and then use the indentation to start drilling the head off.

You need a multimeter/ohm meter to check for low resistance (=continuity).

The problem with the starter running continuously is likely the ignition switch. Do the continuity tests to verify.

Most likely.

 

I just went and bought a multimeter so how do I check for continuity using this meter? It has a light that is supposed to light up if there is continuity but do I have to measure the resistance and am i supposed to set my meter for 0-200ohms when I test? What is position 0, I, II and III and how do I test continuity between 3 terminals at the same time?
Also to disconnect that wire from the starter selenoid do I need to cut it or can it be unplugged? Is the solenoid on the starter itself?

 

Fixed the problem! I unhooked the wire from the starter solenoid and noticed when I put my key to the ON switch the fuel pump buzzed but it stayed buzzing and didnt stop after 2 seconds. Also the CEL light only flashed for about half a second and I just pushstarted it and drove it home like that. I noticed the e-brake light was on also. I found two wires from the VSS that were touching each other so I taped them up with some electric tape and plugged in the VSS and it didnt blow the fuse. I then put back in my old main relay and the fuel pump buzzes for 2 seconds and the CEL light flashes for 2 seconds then goes off and the car started right up. The guys at AutoValue sold me the wrong main relay! The weird thing is the VSS wires were responsible for the car starting itself because it did the same even with my old main relay until I fixed the short.
Thanks RonJ

 

Nice job! You just saved a bundle of money. A mechanic would have reamed you to find and fix this problem. I hope they refunded your money for the wrong main relay.

 

Ya I got the refund that part was $60 lol