Engine & Internal Chat about beefing up your engine's insides here.

got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 04:02 PM
  #11  
jamned's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Default RE: got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

dear god, what were you doing with your car to damage your pistons like that?[&:]
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 04:23 PM
  #12  
ugh3012's Avatar
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Default RE: got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

How much is this setting you back? I would like to rebuild my someday.
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 07:03 PM
  #13  
PNK SLP's Avatar
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Default RE: got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

wow that looks really good man...cant wait to see the finish build...what are u lookin to get outa it
 
Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #14  
riceburner700's Avatar
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Default RE: got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

broken ring lands?
 
Old Dec 21, 2007 | 03:50 PM
  #15  
tombakers's Avatar
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Default RE: got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

yes the ringlands were gone on two of the pistons, i was running 300 fly hp on 9psi on t04e,m im thinkin that english more volatile fuel that has done it, cause i did lots of reading mainlyUS stuff and 9 psi is good for a standard engine but i didnt consider the higher octane, wops! we run 97 octane on super which is the good fuel and that is all i put in my car! but now i have spent lots of dough on the build and didnt think bout the injector size, i am limiteed to 440 cc injectors. im not surewhether to tune it safely onthe injectors i haveand get used to the lower, butmental power and in 6 months to 12 months time move to bigger injectors and have it tuned to higher horse power. or i just run the car in and get 650 cc injectors and be done with it!
 
Old Dec 21, 2007 | 03:58 PM
  #16  
jamned's Avatar
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Default RE: got my engine back from the machine shop bored honed and block gaurd fitted

well if there's two different octane rating systems. Europe uses one and America uses another. If your octane rating is higher than what you've read about people using in American forums, then your fuel would be *less* volatile. The octane rating tells you how resistant the fuel is to combustion, which is why you'll get predetonation when you drop to a lower-than-recommended octane rating--your compression ratio is too high for that octane. Most modern ECUs have sensors for this and will retard your timing if predetonation is the problem. So...personally, I don't think it's the octane rating (unless...97 european octane is lower than 91 american). Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this, though.
 
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