View Poll Results: A poll
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll
Keep the Hatch
#11
09-27-2006, 12:25 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
ORIGINAL: Dogmeat
I've kind of decided that the car has to have a choice one way or the other.
Problems:
Clutch starting to slip
Clutch Master leaks
Tranny leak
Tranny throw out making noise.
Brake Master going
Front brakes warping
Paint fade
I've kind of decided that the car has to have a choice one way or the other.
Problems:
Clutch starting to slip
Clutch Master leaks
Tranny leak
Tranny throw out making noise.
Brake Master going
Front brakes warping
Paint fade
Clutch:5-600$
Transmission: 6-800$
Brakes:250$ for master cylinder, 160$ for front rotors and pads
paint: don't waste your money.
you decide whether it is cost effective to fix it. The brakes can be done yourself, so knock about 50-60$ off the prices for both if you do it yourself, and the clutch can be also, but you'll need a machine shop to resurface the flywheel. these are all rough estimates for prices based on replacement based on oklahoma money. If you live on either coast, inflation will be a bit different.
#12
09-27-2006, 06:31 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
dude man, you can fix all that is three goes, 1. REplace the clutch, and since you have the tranny out replace the throw out bearing and the tranny leak. then the break master, then the brakes. the only issue is the paint, but if your pictuers do the car justice then the paint looks fine, and should be worried about. but updated pics might help 
#13
10-03-2006, 11:22 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
OK...finally decided to keep this hatch. I saw a nice black 03 hatch at a dealership, but the F-r's wanted way to much for it.
Pricing parts for the clutch and almost had a full GSR brake conversion. Once I clean up the tranny, and get the brakes done (quick fix for now) I'll start tracking down some nice stuff and fix this puppy up. I have a feeling waiting for the motor to blow is going to take some time.....maybe by then the K20s won't be quite so expensive. (one can dream right?)
Pricing parts for the clutch and almost had a full GSR brake conversion. Once I clean up the tranny, and get the brakes done (quick fix for now) I'll start tracking down some nice stuff and fix this puppy up. I have a feeling waiting for the motor to blow is going to take some time.....maybe by then the K20s won't be quite so expensive. (one can dream right?)
#14
10-04-2006, 12:28 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
One can always dream man... i think i am saafe on saying that everyone on here has a dream of some sort, wether it is car related or not.. Good call on keeping the car, you probably would have regreted it in the long run
#15
10-05-2006, 03:03 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
ORIGINAL: Fiirkan
Good call on keeping the car, you probably would have regreted it in the long run
Good call on keeping the car, you probably would have regreted it in the long run
#16
10-06-2006, 11:43 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
Damn...this is the hot ride I'd drive any day of the week and twice on Sunday. That is an absolutely insane amount of HP for a Hatch.
Hot Civic
I'm going to post pics in case he takes it down. Sorry if this is OT
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/4F9BA192352E4DEEB9720F5E924F6DA1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/2ED4099CA61947AE9E139253C0152ADB.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/F82C2D9D08D2471A9B79A51BA00A7F44.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/7CD8F014FE83405BB992EDB226D16E0A.gif[/IMG]
Hot Civic
I'm going to post pics in case he takes it down. Sorry if this is OT
The car is fully tuned on pump gas by Mase. Mase also partially tuned on 116 octane and the car made 630whp/441 ft lb. tq at 25 pounds of boost. The driver side axles started to make a werid sound so he had to stop early. This setup can easily put down 700+ whp.
Block/Head/Tranny:
Golden Eagle Sleeves (newer HD Series)
Pauter Rods
CP Pistons (87mm, 9:1 compression)
Eibach EVS valve springs
Skunk2 Titanium retainers
Clutchmasters FX700 twin disc clutch
*** DSS Stage 3 axles (Just installed)
Fuel:
RC 1600cc injectors
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive 100 Micron fuel filters (two of them)
B&M Fuel pressure Gauge
10AN main feed, 6AN return line
All Earl's lines and fittings
Turbo Setup:
Garrett GT4088R turbo (.95 AR)
Full-Race sidemount manifold (HPC Coated)
Tial 44mm wastegate
Custom 3 inch downpipe
Custom mandrel bent 3" downpipe + Apexi N1 turbo muffler
Precision FMIC (the Xtra large one that is rated at 825hp)
3" intercooler pipings
HKS Racing Type II blow off valve
Blitz SBC-iD III boost controller
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
Tokico shocks
Ground Control coilovers
Integra brakes all around
99-00 SI wheels
(all this came with the car when i bought it)
Engine Mangament:
Hondata K-Pro
Misc:
2000 SI gauge cluster (reading about 78K miles)
PLX M-300 wideband
Autometer boost gauge (carbon fiber model)
Autometer Oil Pressure (carbon fiber model)
Karcepts shifter mounting kit
Hasport EKK1 motor mounts
Koyo half size raditor
Slim radiator fan
Momo Competition Steering wheel
NRG Quick release + hub + lock
Block/Head/Tranny:
Golden Eagle Sleeves (newer HD Series)
Pauter Rods
CP Pistons (87mm, 9:1 compression)
Eibach EVS valve springs
Skunk2 Titanium retainers
Clutchmasters FX700 twin disc clutch
*** DSS Stage 3 axles (Just installed)
Fuel:
RC 1600cc injectors
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive 100 Micron fuel filters (two of them)
B&M Fuel pressure Gauge
10AN main feed, 6AN return line
All Earl's lines and fittings
Turbo Setup:
Garrett GT4088R turbo (.95 AR)
Full-Race sidemount manifold (HPC Coated)
Tial 44mm wastegate
Custom 3 inch downpipe
Custom mandrel bent 3" downpipe + Apexi N1 turbo muffler
Precision FMIC (the Xtra large one that is rated at 825hp)
3" intercooler pipings
HKS Racing Type II blow off valve
Blitz SBC-iD III boost controller
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
Tokico shocks
Ground Control coilovers
Integra brakes all around
99-00 SI wheels
(all this came with the car when i bought it)
Engine Mangament:
Hondata K-Pro
Misc:
2000 SI gauge cluster (reading about 78K miles)
PLX M-300 wideband
Autometer boost gauge (carbon fiber model)
Autometer Oil Pressure (carbon fiber model)
Karcepts shifter mounting kit
Hasport EKK1 motor mounts
Koyo half size raditor
Slim radiator fan
Momo Competition Steering wheel
NRG Quick release + hub + lock
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/2ED4099CA61947AE9E139253C0152ADB.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/F82C2D9D08D2471A9B79A51BA00A7F44.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3798/7CD8F014FE83405BB992EDB226D16E0A.gif[/IMG]
#17
10-11-2006, 04:22 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
Better putting a little bit of money into your current ride and make it last. Thats what I'm planning to do with my new Civic. Plus, its not that much money. Thats nothing compared to spending 17k for that turbo civic, then add maintenance costs to that, now thats a real money pit. And an 02 rsx-s will still cost you over 10k. you might want to avoid the 02, 03 rsx-s, they got some serious transmission grinding issues.
#18
10-18-2006, 02:48 PM
RE: Keep the Hatch
QUick update....
New front rotors, calipers, and pads. Brake booster and master cylinder are on order.
In the shop today for the New Exedy Stage 1 clutch and 10lb. flywheel. The rear main oil seal was good. The tranny seal was going...so now they are inside the tranny doing the input bearing and checking the syncros.....
When all is said and done I think I'll be in it for close to $2000.00, but the car will be quiet and hopefully continue to be reliable for another 175K
Yes I know I could have done the work cheaper...but if you account for the $120.00 a week I have to pay in gas until my daily driver is back up and running, and figure in the learning curve of transmission internals, tools to pull it all apart and back together, and missing time at night with my girl..I figure I broke even or came out ahead.
New front rotors, calipers, and pads. Brake booster and master cylinder are on order.
In the shop today for the New Exedy Stage 1 clutch and 10lb. flywheel. The rear main oil seal was good. The tranny seal was going...so now they are inside the tranny doing the input bearing and checking the syncros.....
When all is said and done I think I'll be in it for close to $2000.00, but the car will be quiet and hopefully continue to be reliable for another 175K
Yes I know I could have done the work cheaper...but if you account for the $120.00 a week I have to pay in gas until my daily driver is back up and running, and figure in the learning curve of transmission internals, tools to pull it all apart and back together, and missing time at night with my girl..I figure I broke even or came out ahead.
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