Rebooting an axle is super easy… the hardest part is putting the axle back together which is really easy. Cut the old bands pull axle end off. Slip the boot off, put the new on on the shaft side and push it down. Then you just line up the bearings and it slips right in. Fill boot with grease and reband it. Good upsells and easy money at the dealership. We pay like an hour and a half labor for an inner boot.

But if you aren't keen on doing that I'd just get the driveshaft ones. You can tell if they are for h22 swap, look at the trans side for where the notch is, and if he has em in the box ask for a part number.

Or ghetto rig axles, prelude inside axle end and the rest of the axle I think you use da axles.

 

Well, that will help me relax at least knowing I should be able to have a spare set of axles available in case anything happens.

Didn't end up meeting up with the guy for the axles last night. I looked through DSS's website today and noticed that they have different axles for EK's with a Hasport mount kit, or w/o a Hasport mount kit. hmmmmm. Well, this local guy has to give me a part number before I think about buying them.

I am extremely doubtful that he will be able to supply me with that info., so I amback to square one. However, I spoke with the rep at DSS and he confirmed that these are comparable to the Hasport "Level 1 or basic swap axles". I might go ahead and try these DSS level 0 axles instead of buying Hasports. If the local guy can't contact me with a part number by this weekend, I am ordering either Hasports, or DSS axles for $300.

 

Rebooting an axle is SUUUUUPER easy. Lemme know if you want help with that. I even have done it without taking the axle apart...though THAT was funny to watch.

 

^^ Sounds good. If I need some help later down the road, I'll shoot you a message.

Since Hasports are in stock. I am ordering those.

Cleaned up some of the A/C wiring, installed a new TB with properly adjusted TPS (since I messed with the one on the GSR TB and couldn't get it back to where it should be). CELs for TPS, IAT, and ECT were still there last night, but they were gone this morning.

Realized my injector plugs have no clips on them and the plugs are popping off the injectors every once in awhile. The BDL fuel rail sits so low it is hard to get the plugs down far enough to "click". I'll figure something out of course.

****, I need to start taking pictures again. I am getting really lazy with that. I promise to start posting more pics so the thread isn't like a giant wall of text each time.

 

Axles ordered. They will probably come in sometime next week due to the holiday and such.

Clean up some of the A/C wires (basically snipped all the connectors off etc) I don't plan on ever having A/C in the car, but I kept the connectors just in case.

My CEL for the TPS/ECT/IAT come and go still. I have yet to play with the ECU connectors to see if there is a problem with the pins or whatever they are called. However, I did notice that I moved the ground wire from the valve cover to a different part of the radiator support and now I am not having the CEL issues as much anymore. Could all of my electrical problems I have been describing come from a bad engine ground? I do still have the ground wire from the transmission mount to the frame rail of the vehicle, and the ground on the Tstat housing hooked up.

I figured this may be a bad ground spot since my driver side headlight shares the same ground. I moved the power wire over, but left the HID ground wire where it was, and the headlight went out. I moved the engine ground wire back to where it was and the headlight came back on. :/

EDIT - Now that I am single again (lulz), I am realizing I have a serious addiction problem to my car. I spend the money needed for my son and bills, and the rest immediately goes into a separate bank account in my mind and divided up on how I will spend it and what parts I will order. I have like 8 shopping carts from various websites ready to go with all kinds of parts I want to buy. lol This is bad.

 

I'd be suprised if grounds caused all the cel's. I ran barely any grounds over the summer, like I'm talking battery to body, block to body, and I think that was it, maybe one more off the starter bolt to the firewall. My car started like a damn race car, cranked ungodly slow and anybody that was with me thought it wasn't going to start. I had no cel, no problems whatsoever once the car was running. I added one off the trans and it started normally so it was fine at the end of the summer.

 

Thanks Scott. I appreciate you chiming in on this stuff. I hate electrical work. The random CELs have not come on in like 2-3 days, so I do not plan on touching the wiring just yet. I am afraid to even touch the ECU wiring to move the ECU behind the kickpanel in fear of this whole thing happening again :/

No child this weekend, so I have some time to possibly get some work done. On the check list includes:

-Cleaning up wiring under the dash panel
-ECU plugs (maybe)
-Oil Change (reinstall the sandwich plate for sensors?)
-Possibly working on wiring within engine bay
-Fix subwoofer wiring (randomly went out on me driving home from work last night)

 

Finished cleaning up wiring under dash panel, did oil change, installed Mishi magnetic oil drain plug, re-installed Mishi sandwich plate, wired gauges in (oil temp/psi), raised back end up, played with steering column wiring.

All done either Friday night, or Saturday.

Today, I plan on finding where the hell the power wire for the dome light is (or how it is routed through the car. My fuse for it is in the engine bay), re-installing my cup holders, and possibly cleaning up my VC and repainting.

I will get some pictures up today/tonight.

 

A tone generator works very well for tracing wires in a car...with the battery taken out of course.

 

Never heard of a tone generator actually. I'll have to look into it. Ended up re-installing the cup holders today and replacing my fuel pressure regulator in addition to cleaning up my garage 100%. Just some pics I took before the sun went down. I also replaced most all 10mm bolts with some nice shiny screws and finishing washers from home depot. Cost me like $15 total for about 30 of them. Couldn't get a decent pic since my camera sucks.