Ok, swapped IAT sensors out two nights ago and still got the CEL for it. It HAS to be a wiring issue. Turned the car on, played with the eBay conversion harness and nothing happened. I touched the C connector (I think) and what I believe was the MAP sensor wire, and the car freaked out again and shut off.

Continued to do the same thing while I stared at Hondata to see what was going on. When I touch that wire, the MAP sensor reading shoots up and down between 940 psi to 0.4psi rapidly and shuts the car off. LOL I have a screen shot on my laptop at home showing 935 psi. That's m4dd boost yO! This issue I am dealing with must be a wiring problem. This was done two night ago.

Fast forward to lunch break today, all of the CELs went away and the car starting driving as it did before this nonsense happened. The only CEL is for the VSS as usual. This is retarded haha. I'll keep you guys posted. I plan on picking up a new set of axles tonight, too.

 

935 psi lol... why are you getting new axles?

Sounds like it could be just the conversion harness screwing everything up? I would'nt be fond of spending the money on a Rywire one or something lol, I have an obd2a to obd2b conv harness off ebay that some guy in Cali makes, never got to try it out though.

 

The boot on the inner passenger side is leaking somewhere and sprayed grease all over the place. I searched for a hole, but couldn't find anything. Same goes for a few people I work with. I called Hasport and they said they couldn't do anything, except tell me how to pull the axle apart and replace the boot. I plan on buying the replacements, uninstalling the old axles, cleaning all the mess off (I'll take a pic to show you), installing the replacements, and fixing the current axles to have as spares for the future (praying the joint isn't F-ed.. I am starting to feel vibrations during acceleration).

The problem isn't really when I touch the conversion harness. It happens when I touch the actual OEM harness wires going into the conversion harness. The pins in the conversion harness look fine.

If this is just a simple (HA...simple) wiring issue, there is a problem with the wiring itself near the ECU (doubtful), the pin in the OEM connector is damaged, or the pin in the conversion harness is damaged. I really cant see how it could be anything else given the symptoms.

I can pull apart the OEM connector (going into the conversion harness) and check out the pins individually, right?

 

The connecter goign in to the harness is the female side so you'd have to depin it to look.

 

So to De-pin. I do this?

Honda-Tech - View Single Post - I can't depin my ecu

Then push out the wire I want to look at with a small screwdriver or paperclip etc?

Just making sure. The last thing I need is to mess up the connector going to the ECU.

 

Yea, I can't imagine why they'd depin it in the first place though. Id think they would just splice anything they have to extend or whatever.

 

I doubt the shop touched the harness near the ECU. It is probably just my luck that something crapped out since it was running fine at the time of me picking it up. I'll check it out hopefully by the end of the weekend.

 

Pm me your address. I've got a lot of white, a yellow, teal, and pink nobigdeal sticker. If you want one I'll send you one, just let me know what color.

 

PM sent. But you better send me your PayPal addy. I will send you like $10 for like 2 white stickers and one pink sticker if that works for you.

 

Ok guys, quick question on what you would do if you were me.

Problem = my inner boot on the passenger side axle has a small hole in it and the axle boot needs to be replaced. That's if the joint is still good, but never mind that for now.

Solution = Buying new axles, possibly repairing the current axles and keeping them as spares. I plan on spending $300 (my budget) Here are my choices:

Choice #1 - A guy locally has a set of Drive Shaft Shop axles (rated to 475whp according to him). They have never been used, but sat in his garage for 2 years or so. He says the boots are not dry rotted and look fine. These axles normally go for like $700+ I believe.

Issues with Choice #1 - How do I know they are really for an H22 swapped Civic? From my understanding they shouldn't have a problem with my Hasport mount set-up since Hasport sells them from their site directly. Also, how do I tell they are legit? I have been reading up on them and apparently DSS changed the design of axles, making them stronger as previous sets were not strong enough, or the consistency was not there before. How do I tell if they are the new or "old" design? I plan on calling DSS soon, too. DScall will have to wait until tomorrow as they are already closed for the day.

Choice #2 - Take the easy way and just buy stage "0" Hasport axles and be done with it. They would be brand new, direct replacements for what I have now and they are the same price as above ($300).

Problems with Choice #2 - I have to wait for shipping. My axle is vibrating a little bit under slow acceleration.

I believe that buying the ones which are local is more of a gamble, but would guarantee that I will never have an axle break on me in the future. That is, if they are legit and they fit my car, and they have no problems.

The only reason I don't pull the passenger axle out now and fix it is because you have to take apart the axle to slip a new inner boot over it. I have never done it before and I would rather not have my car down for an undetermined amount of time while I try and figure out how to fix the one boot.