Amazon.com: Fluke PRO3000 Tone and Probe Kit: Electronics this is the one I have. Tracing wires has never been easier.

 

Hurry up with that engine bay pic! Did you ever mount that strut bar?

 

Yea, the strut bar fit like ****. I would suggest buying something name brand to ensure fitment. It could work, the holes on the strut towers would need to be opened up a little more for the brace to reach the firewall, and the entire brace would need to be heated up and twisted so-to-say in order for the firewall holes to line up correctly.

After determining that the engine bay shots I took were terrible (I think I am getting used to DSLR cameras), I also realized that there really isn't anything different looking than before, with the exception of a bunch of wires shoved down below. I'll see what I can do about the pic though.

 

Get the stickers?

 

Crap. Completely forgot to mention those. Yea, I did receive them. There is a white one on my rear windshield at this time.

I picked up an Iphone 4 a few days ago and I believe that camera is technically better than the point and shoot I have owned for the past 4 years or so. I might just go out during break at work and snap a few for you guys.

 

Some pics from over the weekend! Taken with mah Iphone 4!







Panarama shot with teh phone:



Axle grease that needed to be cleaned up:

 

Nice.. ilike it.. keep up the good work

 

Thanks!

Been taking a break on the car recently and just driving as needed. Still having the random CEL issue. Nowadays, it is either on, and the car runs decently, or the CEL is off, car starts fine, but randomly just cuts out after letting off the clutch. I have to play with the wires to get the CEL to actually come on in order to drive it. lol.

However, I found an issue with the cheap eBay conversion harness. No pics at the moment, but it may be the cause of this. Hoping to order a rywire conversion harness for the problems to go away. It ran fine (with exception to the VSS) when I picked it up, so I really can't imagine anything is actually wrong, just wiring issues.

Lastly, I have been researching fuel line tuck parts. After reading up for a few days about it, it seems like it will be pretty easy to accomplish. I am probably going to go with a -6an, with an inline filter. Does anyone have any recommendations? Whatever the filter is, I would like the filtering element to have the ability to be replaced (unless those are known for leaking), and for the filter to catch up to 10 microns. The "sock" on the fuel pump filters up to 25 microns, so anything above or around that is pointless IMO.

For tucking, I plan on doing the following (not in order), stainless steel (silver) hoses, with black fittings (I am not a fan of the red/blue):
- Fuel line and filter
- Clutch line
- Cleaning up the wiring under the IM
- Battery relocation

As for other things with stainless line, I plan on getting:

- 180° F Mishimoto Thermostatic oil cooler kit with SS lines
- Catch can to fit the OE battery location with SS lines

After the above, I might start looking into some sort of tucked radiator.

 

I'm going to be doing fuel lines this winter. Going to he the earl's filter. I'm also "tucking" the proportioning valve. I don't have room to bring it in the car so I am lowering it in the bay and running new stainless hard line. Only $45 for 20' of it. I want to run a catch can too, going to have fittings welded on a valve cover.

 

Nice. Once is all said and done, I might do the same as you are doing with the prop valve, just lowering it towards the bottom of the firewall and making new lines. But that'll come around when I install the rear disc swap set-up.