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DaOne's del Sol Project

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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:35 PM
  #81  
NIKE H34D's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DaOne
So I havent updated this in a while... but there hasnt been much done..lol
I decided i would start putting money aside every check that will go towards a new motor when the one i have decides to take a ****.
And i'll decide on a motor depending on how much money i got saved up and stuff.

A few things i'll be doing probably today or tomorrow are:
1. order LEDs to replace all the interior bulbs (thanks to Trust for the list of every bulb required =])
2. Get a new Shiftboot and E-break Boot.. Any ideas on where to find em? i know theres a shift boot on PWJDM, but i dont see the Ebreak anywhere on there...
3.Figure out how to stop my dam roof from making that dam noise after every F&#%&*@ bump.
lol gets annoying after a while..

Stu has everything done to his interior on his sol, He has a sparco handle and also a boot. He knows the sellers name on ebay that sells high quality ones..
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #82  
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1. you're welcome

2. get your e-brake boot here:
http://stores.ebay.com/TOP-GAITERS-B..._sid=668506186

This guy makes awesome boots. I wouldn't really recommend his shift boots though because they are too short for anything other than the factory shifter. He can make it taller though if you message him. He uses really nice leather at a low price. Also, his shift boots don't come with the little plastic ring at the top.

3.
Washer trick:
"Original Author: Paul Mooney "Peej"

Tools you will need: A deep well 12mm socket and a 12mm open end wrench, ten washers 1/16th - 1/8 in thickness (less than $1.00)

1. REMOVE THE PLASTICS: First, you will need to remove some plastic from your interior & put your top inside your trunk to get it out of the way. The plastic that you will remove will be the sun visor assemblies, A pillar covers, dome light assembly, & roll bar interior plastic. To remove the interior pieces you will need to pry out the little circle behind the sun visor and remove the 4 screws, to remove the A pillar plastic you will need to get your fingers behind the plastic and pull with equally force / evenly on the plastic to unsnap the clips holding it securely to the pillar, to remove the dome light you will need to pry off the clear plastic then remove the screw underneath & then pry out the rest of the assembly, and finally to remove the upper roll bar plastic you will need to pry of this plastic in a similar manner as the A pillar plastic.


2. REMOVE THE BOLTS: You will see 3 bolts in each front corner holding the front roof pin receiver in place, and 1 bolt & 1 nut holding the rear roof pin receiver in place. I suggest that you remove one of these bolts (12mm) and take it down to your local hardware store to get washers that fit (1/1th-1/8th).. Carefully remove the bolts and place the washers between the roof pin receivers and the body of the car. Then replace the bolts and tighten securely. One washer per bolt is enough. We tried 2 and it seemed to help some, but the seals were mashed a little too far and water still seemed to get in.


3. TEST FIT: After all the washers have been put into place try a test fit. You may have to lightly press down on the top to twist the handle and lock the top down. Now with your proper fit of the top & it being satisfactory tightened to the car you can now put your top back in the trunk.

3. FINISHING UP: Replace the plastic on the interior of the of the Sol and enjoy a more water tight top. Don't forget a slightly tighter chassis when your top is in place."

from: http://www.teamdelsol.com/


and follow the maintenance procedures with the grease
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #83  
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Dam at least im not the only one that suffers from the roof noise of doom..lol
Im definitely gonna do that washer trick today after work or tomorrow morning before i go anywhere. Thanks for the instructions.
I read somewhere that the early del sols had the crappyest roof seals? and that they changed the seals for the newer years because the old ones leaked. But the washer should stop the leaks uh?

@trust: thanks for the ebay seller. The prices are lower than i expected them to be. So they dont come with the ring at the top? is that a big deal? ( http://cgi.ebay.com/HONDA-DEL-SOL-GE...item3a5a8e8ea4 )
and also how much longer do you think i should ask him to make the Shifter boot?

@nike: what did you end up doing to your Sol? did you part it out or do you still have it?
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #84  
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The roof seals I believe are the same, the seal that is different is the one that runs along the A-pillars and top of the car in front of the targa. It has a little lip designed for the water to run down instead of it building up and leaking between the roof seal and A-pillar seal. This was either changed in 1994 or 1995. I can't remember which.

Honestly though, my roof never leaks, as long as I maintain the seals. I grease them once a month on average.
It is also probably worth noting that my seals on the left and right sides of the targa are relatively new. I replaced them because mine were torn. If you are considering replacing any seals to help alleviate rattles and leaks in addition to the washer trick and proper seal maintenance via grease, those would probably be the ones to get.

shift boot... I think I asked for 2 inches taller, which is perfect with my B&M straight shifter. What shifter (and ****) do you have?
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #85  
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I also got a B&M shifter, and a crappy shift **** still..
So 2inches should be enough? does he charge more for custom sizes?

Did you get that grease from the dealer? or what kind do you use?
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #86  
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it's called shin-etsu grease. like $13 a tube but the tube will last you a long time. I've had mine like 2 years and it's still 2/3 full at least. I grease my seals monthly at minimum.

do a google search for "shin etsu honda"

here's one site that has it. i think you can just get it at your dealership though
http://www.bernardiparts.com/Shin-Et...8798-9013.aspx

2 inches should be good. no extra charge. just send him a message asking if he can do that for you... before you buy it. he should give you some instructions
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:23 PM
  #87  
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I just messeged him on ebay. Thanks!

And right now i was getting ready to check out on the LED's for cluster/switches/AC..
and i noticed that you said the cluster uses Wedge....74-xHP3 Wedge Base LED bulb... and not the twist ones like the ones i bought for my civic. is this correct?

This is what i got so far on the shopping cart..
74-xHP3 Wedge Base LED bulb COOL WHITE (x9) ---For cluster and Climate Control
NEOx LED Instrument bulb GREEN (x2) ---Indicators (aux/Cruise)
NEOx LED Instrument bulb AMBER (x1) ---Defrost
NEOx LED Instrument bulb RED (x1) -----Hazard Light
NEOx LED Instrument bulb COOL WHITE (x3) ---------For the other 3 backlights?
 

Last edited by DaOne; Sep 30, 2010 at 09:25 PM.
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:25 PM
  #88  
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You can use the twist ones but the best bulbs for the cluster are the 74-xHP3

cart sounds find to me
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:35 PM
  #89  
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SWEEEEEET! just checked out.
just seemed wierd to me for some reason lol
thanks for the fast response like always.
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #90  
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I've been hearing clicking noises from the passenger side front wheel when i turn out of the garage....so today i decided to check it out, and YUP there was the torn boot..lol check it out.
blurry because they're phone pics...
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I also tried to aim the foglights a little better, since one of them was like aimed straight to the ground. So i'll see if its better tonight.

I also washed her.. with the help Marley. my lab mix dog. lol
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And as you can see.. people have no clue on what they are doing when they are ricers and just want that huge loud exhaust to fit...
They couldnt even cut the hole for it right..
i sold the loud exhaust it had for 20 bucks lol
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