nice

don't reuse the timing belt tough... replace it, along with water pump, tensioner, and oil pump

 

Yeah, it got moved to the bathroom. And damn, I knew I should have paid the extra $40 plus tax for the whole longblock. But it was too heavy otherwise. Didn't have any help to load it up.

Pulled the oil pan. Its ruined, got a big hole in it. But Im gonna save it to practice tapping for the oil return line. The gasket was trash so there was all kind of oil leaking from it. But no metal shavings that I've seen. There is no sign of a crosshatch on the cylinders. None at all. Polished clean. Gotta be rehoned hardcore. The insides look fine as far as I can tell. I'll have to take it to the shop at some point and have it worked on. But I've gotta find a new shop because the other guy is taking FOREVER for just a head. And damn, the girdle WILL NOT COME OFF. So I'm gonna put it back together.

 

Serious question: what oil pan do I need to buy for the y7 block? Just another y7 pan? I'm working on a parts list to buy off Majestic Honda.

 

any d" series pan that isnt aluminum

 

well if thats a y7 pan. simply clean it up and weld the hole up on it! youll have to get a bung welded on that sucker anyways and since its steel its a very simply plug weld and just grind it smooth and paint it. will look as good as new.
lets face it why buy a new one to only pop a hole in the side with the oil lines a welding shop shouldnt charge ya much more for a simply hole to fill! to make it easier pull the oil pan and put the damaged spot on a 2x4 or what not and use a hammer from the inside to flatten out the hole area for an even easier weld!

and just a word of advice next time your at the junk yard take some cash with ya i bribe people all the time at my yard for help lifting heavy stuff typically just 3 bucks and MOST of the time they are happy to help for 3 bucks sometimes i dont even have to pay em, people just in a nice helpfull mood since they know they might be in the same situation sometime.

i plan on paying somebody tomorrow to help me load this suburban rear quarter panel after i get it cut out if its not raining that is!

 

Ha, I wish I could patch this hole. The thing is mangled on the bottom anyways from where someone first stabbed a hole in it, and second, dragged it on some rocks. It's done.

My challenge for the day is finding out how to remove the crank pulley and flywheel while it's on the stand...

 

well flywheel isnt to hard, but crank pulley!!!!!!! might be a task with no air tools! have a friend and on the engine stand with with a screw driver stuck thru the flywheel to hold the crank inplace, then remove the crank bolt with a long @ss cheater bar and hope you dont turn the engine stand over.LOL



but the pans is still steel add your own extra plating on the outside, you could gain more oil capacity as well as strengthen the pan.
if you had a welder it would be very easy to fab up. at least it would be easy for me, only thing i need is a gas tank for my dads welder since he turned his tanks in last year. so i gotta buy my own which i plan on doing soon anyways.

 

The engine really stinks so I've been cleaning it just so it can sit here for awhile longer. I have to store it in the bedroom after all. What do you think of it now?




The oil vent box was a pain to get off, as was the thermostat housing and water pipe.









I sanded the engine ID plate to get some shine. The rest of the block is a little stained here and there.

Problems so far:
Can't get the crank pulley off. (no tools for it)
Can't get the flywheel bolts/flywheel off. (crank spins too freely)
Can't get the main cap off the crankshaft. (its stuck. Removed the bolts and it wouldn't budge.)
Can't remove whatever that sensor is on the back of the block. (Need bigger wrench.)
Oil pan has a big hole in it still. (Marcus, I can't bend it out from the inside because there's a baffle in the way.)

Since I can't remove the pulley, I can't remove the lower timing cover to clean that side of the engine. And I wish I hadn't cut that timing belt off. Upon close examination, there was practically no wear on the belt. It was just dirty. Might have had 5-10K on it, if that. I would have had no worries about running with it.

 

to stop the crank simply use the handle from a wooden hammer or what not and put it up from the oil pan up into the bottom and wedge it between the piston arm and block. they shouldnt be to tight to hurt anything.
and if you have the crank pulley bolt out just start hammering on the pulley to knock it off, either copper hammer or wooden block of course instead of just a steel hammer head.
as to the main cap/girdle i think you have to remove the oil pump on the front of the motor to get it off. I THINK. i tried pulling it off my old z6 and im pretty sure thats what was holding it on the block.

 

Daym thats getting clean as hell now haha keep up the good work