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Hobo's 2000 LX daily driver

Old Aug 16, 2011 | 01:36 AM
  #941  
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ya defiantly give them the receites for the new motor! get every penny you can. but i still say its repairable. i would go buy a new cap and make sure motor is still fine and if it is id buy it back. buy back my guess would be something like 500bucks.
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:19 AM
  #942  
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Hey guys, need some assistance. I'm not sure of the car's fate right now. I'm certain insurance will total it. I'm sure my parents won't want me to try to rebuild it, but I would like to at least look into the possibility. I need a parts list. I know the big stuff, but there are probably details that I'm not thinking about. Marcus, your input would be most welcome.

Bare minimum:
Hood
Hood latch!
Hood hinges
Fenders
Bumper cover
Grille <-actually, I still have my old one lol
Bumper (bar)
Radiator Core Support
Radiator/Radiator fan
Radiator bracket (might be salvageable)
Radiator overflow container (might be intact)
Headlight housings
turn signal bulbs
headlight bulbs

Comfort:
Condenser/Condenser fan
Condenser bracket (might be salvageable)
AC lines

What else, as a bare minimum to get it streetable?
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #943  
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I'd say you have everything there assuming the main frame on the sides of the bay are straight. As long as suspension wasn't impacted or the engine untouched for the most part it would be a matter of cutting out the old supports and new welded in. Just have to have all the a/c lines, trans cooler lines, and anything else up there. If anything, buy it back and pull the motor and part the car out, make your money back in interior, doors, etc.
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #944  
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My god.....how depressing.....I know exactly how you feel. Honestly if buyback is cheap, buy it back. If anything you could learn a LOT by tearing it down. That's one big thing I regret not doing to my wrecked civic before we sold the shell.

If you do rebuild it, I will be MORE than willing to hit up junk yards for parts for you. There are a ton of Civics out here in NM. I'd love to have some part in helping you out, I know how much that car meant to you.
 
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 06:12 AM
  #945  
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FAAAWWWWK THAT.

I am pissed off just reading this and I don't even know you personally! I would have lost it if the cop didn't do anything like what happened in your case.

Sorry to hear about this Hobo.
 
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #946  
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I appreciate the support guys.

48 hours post-wreck and still no contact from insurance...
 
Old Aug 20, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #947  
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The adjuster looked at it and has passed it up the chain. Will hopefully hear back on Monday.

I got restless and started working on the car a bit. I removed my LED turn signals and returned them to stock. I also pulled the hood off and stomped on it to flatten it out a bit for when the rain comes later this week. I pulled the core support back a little by hand to get a look at the front of the transmission. (And I cut my hand in the process, lol. Gloves FTW.) To my surprise, the radiator is intact and still full! The green mess is actually just dye from the AC system.

Here is the CEL data from today:

CEL codes:
20 - Electrical Load Detector
41 - Primary O2 Sensor
65 - Secondary O2 Sensor
70 - Automatic Transmission

D4 A/T codes:
01 - Lock-up control solenoid valve A
16 - Linear Solenoid

SRS codes:

None

Google sucks for transmission code info so I downloaded the service manual and have printed some flow charts. Like RonJ says, don't guess. Troubleshoot.

I've skimmed the charts and they all have things in common. The ELD/solenoids/AT Malfunction could all be explained by damaged wires. The O2 sensors... not sure yet. The primary one is definitely broken, but the secondary one was somewhat shielded. We'll see.
 
Old Aug 20, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #948  
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Here's my car after I T-boned a Titan. This engine is in my current car and has never given me any problems besides routine maintenance stuff.

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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #949  
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well not sure about some of the codes, just check the wires. and post up pics of current state.
for the tranny my guess would be the wires on the solenoids might have got broke from radiator pushed into it or might just be rubber insulation melted off from heat of hot radiator. might be alright. as to the O2 its probably 2nd alright just the first one throwing it off on the computer trying to correct the fuel mix. just be sure to check your wires real good and solder any broken wires or damage wires you can see, and reset the car simply unhook battery for afew mins. and then try again and see if codes come back.

just depends what parts hit what wires. or it might have just been a hicop in the system with the impact.
 
Old Aug 20, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #950  
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I was able to troubleshoot and resolve all CEL codes. Transmission codes are gone too. Turns out that one of the plug wires was cut and was grounding out against the shiny new valve cover bolt... That'll throw off the whole electrical system. I'm glad the ECU didn't get killed.

The only remaining CEL is the obvious O2 sensor. The idle is still erratic, and I assume this is due to the broken distributor cap. (There's just a chunk missing out of it, but the side with the contacts is intact. I doubt it's perfectly aligned, but it runs enough. (Still thrilled that the radiator is intact!)

Here's the full list of accomplishments for today:
  • Removed LED turn signals and reinstalled incandescent ones
  • Flattened the hood out enough to mostly cover the bay (just in time for the rain!)
  • Removed the remaining headlight (which was actually only slightly broken)
  • Removed the 3 top bolts for the passenger fender (so I could bend it forward and open my passenger door again)
  • Pulled the core support away from the front of the drivetrain (so I could examine the stuff behind it, durr)
  • Removed the front bumper bar (well, "removed" sounds like it took some effort; it really just fell off)
  • Swapped two worn/questionably ok spark plug wires onto #2 and #4 (to replace the two obviously bad ones)
  • Found out that my valve cover is broken but not too bad because it's just the lip around where the plug wire goes
At this point, my curiousity about the condition of the car is satisfied. The question now is what insurance is going to do. So it's a waiting game since I won't know the true condition of the frame until it's up on a lift.

Bottom line, the car must be able to be returned to a safe and dependable state. Regardless of what insurance does, if that can't happen, Celeste gets parted out.
 

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