Tried to make this video embedded but I failed -_-
Anyway here is a short video I made showing my car, not that much better than the last one but figured I would throw it up...

~Turtlegrip~ :NeuroPod: "CarPC" - YouTube

 

So my squealing brakes drive me crazy, i assumed they were the rears:





But it was not my rears, I guess the front right brake is not properly set on the rotor, i did the breaking in process and I have gotten them red hot since (not on purpose really, canyon driving) and it still squeals, so i will have to deal with it until i can resurface the rotors i guess....

but I did replace my bushings on the lower control arm:



















Gonna go for a drive now and see how it is, but that is all i have to update right now... figured I might as well throw it up, still looking forward to a new exhaust in june, nothing major planned until then.

edit: looking back i think my control arms were upside down in the car -_- it was my first mod to the car... but it sits lower now. and i do not want to deal with drum brakes ever again, def switching to rear disc one day. but while i was in there i did clean both drum interiors with brake cleaner and i do not hear any squealing when braking so far, also no squeaking from bushing which is a huge improvement.

 

Nice work. Make sure you do not tighten the bolts as the car is up in the air. I assume the jack is in the last pic showing that you are pre-loading the suspension?

My Skunk2 LCAs have been on for the past 2 years and the bushings look fine so far. I do need to get back there and clean/lubricate everything though.

 

That is the preload, it was as high as it normally sits (as far as i can tell). So I hope that will suffice.

You can see in the first pic though that the LCA is upside down, so there was extra strain on the strut bushing, i think that is why that is the only one that want bad. So happy there is no more squeaking at every bump.

Forgot to take pics of the drum brake clean, but it was much nicer looking, Im guessing it doesnt hurt to get in there and clean them once in a while.

 

hmm.. yeah.. those definately look upside down. I hate seeing people dealing with cracked LCA bushings, it looks like something that would really **** me off.

 

You know I was expecting it to suck, but my bolts all popped right off, the LCA dropped right out and using a pocket knife I was able to pry out the skunk2 bushing very quickly, popping it back in was a little bit of trouble only on the mount under the drum brake, but overall it took me less than an hour.

During the rain my PC started freezing up, i was driving in POURing rain, like i have never before seen it around here (didnt last long tho), so i turned it off and parked in the garage and took a look, nothing was wet but it looks like my solid state hard drive may have crapped on my, gonna look more into it today. It has done this before and I got it working again, if not I will just demand a refund haha, ill update with what was wrong, but I have a feeling it is just gonna start working like last time.

 

Okay, just got some money, gonna fix my exhaust. Posting the parts that I am looking at buying and hoping for some insight on anything anyone might have any insight on. I have done a little bit of research (enough to be confident in my decisions) and this is what I have been able to put together in my price range without going completely no name parts:

Header:
Megan Racing Header 4-2-1 -$160

Exhaust:
Apex'i N1 -$250
or
Greddy Ti-C -$250
or
HKS Hi-Power -$250

My header has a huge crack down the entire thing, its bad, so this needs to be fixed. The megan seems like it will work and do its job, thats all i need (it beats a cracked stock header). Thats my logic anyway.

The exhaust I am just doing while im down there to sound nicer, ect. I am looking at these two exhausts because they both seem to have a low rumble, as in they do not sound like 2 stroke dirt bikes with cracked tubing. And they are affordable, does that mean they are not gonna last, I will hope not. Ordering will be done through a local shop, Cockpit Autosport, recommended by my mechanic and they actually beat online prices. Also it will leave me with some kind of warranty that I can discuss in person with someone. HKS is the only one he cannot order right now since he says they may have discontinued it, so I will have to look into whether it is worth ordering that one online, and why it was discontinued if that is, in fact, truth.

I will get custom tubing from a local muffler shop, 2.5" probably since the header is 2.5", but I will see what cata conv I get and maybe make the tubing 2.25" since one of those exhaust is 2.25". But either way the shop said they should be able to throw everything on there and make the tubing for around $100, which seems pretty damn fair to me. Gonna go to the shop today and talk to them about specifics.

Will update with pics of my crappy exhaust and the parts once i have everything. Then of course the after pictures and a nice little video. Will keep you updated and I will be checking to hopefully get any insight on these parts I am looking at!

 

If you were closer I would sell you my Apexi WS2 exhaust. You would need to take it to a shop to have the B pipe shorten since some douche at another swap thought it would be a good idea to hack the B-pipe up instead of fabricating a "test" pipe like I had asked.

I would love to be able to get 3" exhaust soon. I just need to price it out and then see how much I can get for my current set-up.

 

only 2750 miles -_-

I was thinking 3" but i realized that it would probably do more harm than good, since i wont be doing any real engine mods for at least a year. But i ran into my first, and likely my only, problem... California Catalytic Converters....

Since I am getting custom piping, I am assuming I can use any universal fit cata conv...? For example, if my set up is as follows:

Header: Megan Racing Header 4-2-1
Exhaust: Apex'i WS2

And then I get one of these catalytic converters:

MagnaFlow Catalytic Converter - Universal-Fit ACURA CL 1997 - 1999 2.3; 2.2 99234HM

The guy making the piping should be able to just throw it on there no problem I am assuming, and I should be able to still pass smog? He is a cool local guy, not gonna make a huge deal about legality (there are some weird rules about these converters in CA, seems like a money making scheme to me).

I do notice that it does not appear to have o2 sensor spots, but i think i could make a hole with a grommet and get the sensor in right after, or maybe i need one with a spot for a sensor. (I was looking at T2 converters but i see that I cannot use that now.)

So I am just wondering if there is some weird reason this would not work with my car or would cause me to not pass smog?

Or can anyone recommend a good, cheaper way to do this? Taking a catalytic converter off another car or something? For now I am probably gonna go with the set up listed above (not 100% on the muffler), i know I can get money from local junkyards for the core of my catalytic converter, so that should help...

gonna post this in exhaust section too...

 

I would highly recommend that you really consider a different header. I had the Megan 4-2-1 on two of my old Civics, one of which I put on brand new. They blow the midway gasket where it's two pieces connect all the damn time. And they really are a pain to change out. One piece headers just completely eliminate that problem.

I also run the Apexi WS2, I love it.