shaky after valve adjustment
#11
RE: shaky after valve adjustment
thanks guys for the input. just stopped by honda and a head mechanic old guy who's been there for 30 years ha checked it out for me.
he adjusted the idle so that it's prob 100 more than it was, said the valves are tighter now and that the computer's supposed to over time adapt and raise the idle a little. less shaky now but i'm wondering something,
if the idle was too low due to tighter valves and the computer's supposed to readjust idle over time, will it idle higher over time because of the self adjustment he made with the idle screw or will it stay?
he adjusted the idle so that it's prob 100 more than it was, said the valves are tighter now and that the computer's supposed to over time adapt and raise the idle a little. less shaky now but i'm wondering something,
if the idle was too low due to tighter valves and the computer's supposed to readjust idle over time, will it idle higher over time because of the self adjustment he made with the idle screw or will it stay?
#13
RE: shaky after valve adjustment
ORIGINAL: RonJ
The adjustment should now allow the ECU in conjunction with relevant sensors to maintain the proper idle speed.
The adjustment should now allow the ECU in conjunction with relevant sensors to maintain the proper idle speed.
#14
RE: shaky after valve adjustment
Disconnect the wire to the EACV with the engine warmed up and running. Idle speed should drop to where the engine almost stalls (about 400 rpm). Adjust the air screw to achieve this. When the valve is reconnected the ECU will increase idle speed and control it at the designed point. The CEL may come on from this procedure, that is of course because the valve was intentionally disconnected, not a failure.
Also don't trust the dash tach to measure idle speed accurately.
Also don't trust the dash tach to measure idle speed accurately.
#18
RE: shaky after valve adjustment
ORIGINAL: mk378
The wires have to be unplugged from the plugs in order to remove the valve cover, but the spark plugs themselves don't need to be removed.
The wires have to be unplugged from the plugs in order to remove the valve cover, but the spark plugs themselves don't need to be removed.
i've never even heard of this happening to anyone after an adjustment
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