Well, coolant temps haven't changed, oil temps sit at about 180 F (climbs to 195 F when getting in on it). No idea what the EGTs are right now (working to get that situated).

With these blowers, the issue is intake air temps. When just cruising, I see intake temps of about 150 F. Before meth, I would hit the gas and see the temps shoot to 180ish. Now, meth sprays at 5psi and drops the temps fast. Of course, the temps will go right back up once I am not spraying any more.

The sucky thing is that the OEM Honda Intake Temp sensor is slow to show changes in temps. For example, the IATs will be at 175 while cruising, I hit the gas hard, spray meth for about 5-10 seconds, then let off the gas. About 10 seconds later, I see the IATs dropping rapidly to about 125 F, then slowly climbing back up.

I have been looking into and researching about GM intake temp sensors and how they can react much much faster. The ECU pulls timing (and does other stuff, too) based on intake temps (and other factors of course). If the sensor is reading that the temps are still hot when in fact I am spraying meth, I am not getting the most that I could out of the meth kit IMO. Essentially, the faster it can read temps and changes in that temp, the better.

 

Picked up an Autometer Ultra Lite Oil PSI gauge for the build! I still need a heat gun in order mold the A pillar gauge pod I picked up onto the OEM pillar though. Anyone think a hair dryer would work, or would that not be enough heat? I would prefer to just spend the $25 on a heat gun and be able to have one for future use rather than sit there for an hour or more heating the plastic up. However, if it will work, I might as well move along with these gauges and get them installed!

Also, I have been talking with someone who is planning on visiting Philly within the next 2 weeks who is selling a complete z6 longblock. Looks like this motor build will be moving along... hopefully.

 

Well, this isn't the safest way of getting it done but how about your oven? I use it for bend lexan (plexi glass) for gauge clusters. I'm sure it would be just as functional for plastic molding. Just don't completely melt it!

 

^^ Oh yea... oven was the first thing I thought of. Then the rents saw the paint on the a pillar and thought I was going to be curing paint or something and said no. No biggie though.

I caved in and spent the $25 on a heat gun today. Probably will not get to play with it until after the weekend. Plans with the girlfriend's family tonight, plus I need to do a coolant flush on my car and an oil change on the g/f's car this weekend. Also, I helped my bro out on Thursday night by replacing his VC grommets, spark plug tube seals, VC gasket, and Distributor O-ring. Took only 45 minutes from start to finish, but I was moving quickly since it was a little cold. LOL, his Dist. O-ring just broke into pieces when I tried to remove it. Must have been the reason he was getting so much oil build up under there.

 

Drained out the water from the cooling system and replaced it with coolant yesterday so I no longer have to worry about anything freezing! . Also worked the gauge pod onto the A-pillar last night, it fits much better now. Tonight, I spent about 2 1/2 hours wiring up gauges in the pillar. Still have to route the wires to their respective places throughout the car/engine bay. All of this while it is averaging about 45 F after like 9pm around here.

Once they are all installed and working, I will be tossing up some pics!

 

Not much done recently to the car, been working like 10+ hours at work while helping set up a new office (yay... we are expanding! good sign in this economy of course)

This weekend I plan on getting an oil change done on the g/f's car, oil change on my car, installing PSI sender thing-a-ma-jig on the Mishimoto sandwich, wiring up the oil temp and psi gauges 100%, working on the EGT gauge stuff(*), and other misc errands which dont have anything to do with the car.

* How about this idea for the EGT gauge probe (since I am not a fan of other people working on my car/parts unless I have no other choice)...... I was thinking about taking an o2 sensor bung block off, drilling/tapping a 1/8 NPT hole in it, and installing the probe there. You think it would work? This would be instead of using the weld-in bung.

I have my o2 sensor relocated due to the header having the o2 sensor hole right after the primaries. The exhaust temp sensor would then be there and I would be able to put the OEM o2 sensor farther down on the down pipe.

 

Pics of the Autometer gauges:





Wiring:


Sandwich plate with senders installed.


Gauges have been in the car for the past 1.5 weeks and are working flawlessly, well except for the EGT gauge still, no sensor set-up done yet. I tried the o2 bung block off idea, but I kept breaking drill bits and one bit broke at the tip and was wedged in. Oh well, it was a good idea at least. haha

Had fun running over a nail a day or so ago which created a slow leak and I had a nice flat tire in the driver rear when I awoke this morning. I ended up throwing some spare 14" steelies in the back. The back tires will be replaced on Saturday morning.

Also, if this guy from CL comes through, I will be trading the BBS wheels for a set of polished Integra blades this weekend.

 

Someone is selling a d series jrsc by me for $900 obo. If I didn't just spend $4500 in Matco and Snap On tools I soooo would have bought it lol.

Edit: it is down to $800 obo now.... ughhhhh terrible timing for him to put this up haha. If it were like 3 weeks earlier I would've bought it with the money from the H22.

 

^^$800 isnt bad. But then you have to factor in all of the little things like tuning, possibly injectors, etc. I picked up mine for $650 originally, but ended up spending an extra $400 or so on little things to get it running 100% (not including tuning as I already had the s300 at that point)

Anyways, the BBS wheels are gone. They were nice for time I had them, but it was time for something different and I had a feeling one of the bent were slightly bent, or "flat spotted". Regardless, they will be missed.

I meet up with a guy in Quakertown (1/2 way point) and traded for a nice set of polished GSR blades. The only thing wrong with them is the clear coat on the center caps is starting to come off and one wheel has a little scratch from being laid down on it's face for a second. That will be sanded and buffed out with no problem. Not worried about the center caps as I want Honda ones, not Acura ones.

Pics tonight after I install them

 

The wheels are on after washing and using some Mother's polish on them.

I was a big dummy and cross-threaded a lug nut when installing the steelies (to go and trade the BBS's), and broke a wheel stud. Of course, it has to be in the front, too.(front studs are a b!tch since it requires re-packing the wheel bearing with grease etc etc)

Looks like a perfect time for extended wheel studs! Even though I wish I didn't have to spend the money right now. I will be going with Drop Engineering Extended Wheels studs (same company who makes my engine mounts), picking up those tapered to conical lug washers, and a set of drop lug nuts. They are selling black, purple, blue, red, and gold. Anyone have a suggestion on which color to get?

Edit: After about 3 months, the Blox LCA bushings are already ripped into pieces and the loud clunking noise in the back has returned because of it. I am shocked they can sell these LCAs and think they are anything other than complete cr4p. The bushings which came in the LCA died with 6 months, the replacements, gone within 3 months. I should bitch at Blox to see if I can get my money for the replacement bushings refunded.

Any suggestions on which company to go with for a set of replacement LCAs?`