Cvcrcr's project/fix-up thread (version 1.1)
Here's the clearance on mine.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/IMAG0110.jpg
My buddy is going to check the paper work and let me know what mounts they are.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...1/IMAG0110.jpg
My buddy is going to check the paper work and let me know what mounts they are.

My camera eats batteries, so I will have my g/f with the DSLR or whatever it is called help me take some pics of the stuff tonight.
^^^If they are OEM headlights, they will say "stanley" on the plastic clear lens. If they are OEM, that explains my problem. Regardless, I will have to cut into the headlight, or stop being a bitch and get the relocation kit. lol
No progress on the motor swap. The wiring is becoming a complete nightmare. I am lost on a few things, and I do not want to take the time to extend wires and whatnot, put everything together and then have something be wrong and me having to pull everything off again to fix it. I am in the process of looking at the wiring harness in the FSM I just downloaded and matching the wires and plugs with where they need to go using the 92-96 Prelude FSM.
No progress on the motor swap. The wiring is becoming a complete nightmare. I am lost on a few things, and I do not want to take the time to extend wires and whatnot, put everything together and then have something be wrong and me having to pull everything off again to fix it. I am in the process of looking at the wiring harness in the FSM I just downloaded and matching the wires and plugs with where they need to go using the 92-96 Prelude FSM.
They are not OEM, the only thing they say besides the D.O.T. info is HB2
The tails are OEM, they say Stanley and Honda
On your wiring,
Just remember that the Knock and injector wires are shielded, rewire from pin to pin with shielded wire if they need to be longer.
On mine they just spliced in non shielded wire and I need to rewire the injectors.
The tails are OEM, they say Stanley and Honda
On your wiring,
Just remember that the Knock and injector wires are shielded, rewire from pin to pin with shielded wire if they need to be longer.
On mine they just spliced in non shielded wire and I need to rewire the injectors.
I am not using the knock sensor. The ECU (P28) I have does not support it. The injector wiring has already been handled. I am getting confused in regards to the sensors under the distributor (on the head) and on the transmission basically. That whole area is what is taking so long. Everything else is basically done and ready to go I believe.
I don't think I posted any of these up here yet...
Skunk2 IM installed. I wish I could use this. It is sooo nice looking!


CC Clutch:

Engine bay (empty and uncleaned):


Passenger side bracket welded. I am being told by a few H22 people I know that this is a weak point in EK's with H swaps:

All cleaned up and frame rails re-sprayed. I will finish the rest later when I have extra time to mask things off etc.



Motor going in! We only did this for pics. I ended up installing the motor from underneath and lowering the car on it.

Basically current pics (except of the header) and the wiring mess:

Skunk2 IM installed. I wish I could use this. It is sooo nice looking!


CC Clutch:

Engine bay (empty and uncleaned):


Passenger side bracket welded. I am being told by a few H22 people I know that this is a weak point in EK's with H swaps:

All cleaned up and frame rails re-sprayed. I will finish the rest later when I have extra time to mask things off etc.



Motor going in! We only did this for pics. I ended up installing the motor from underneath and lowering the car on it.

Basically current pics (except of the header) and the wiring mess:

Yep. It (VC) got pretty banged up while the motor was being lifted up and down, in and out of things during the transport.
Meh, doesn't bother me much. The rest of the wiring is starting to wear me down and making me hate this swap. lol
Well, I'll be honest. I put the swap up on CL as a feeler to just see if anyone was interested in picking it up for me to break even on everything and I will swap something easier in. I don't have the time for this anymore. I also made another CL ad for the car and swap together just for fun and to see what people offer.
Additionally, I am looking to pick up a 92 Civic VX hatch (basically stock) for $800 tonight just for something to drive while the coupe gets finished. It def. needs work, but it is only $800 with 133k original miles. Clean title, 5spd. OEM VX wheels.
It needs: windshield ($200), Muffler/exhaust ($200), Hood and replacement cable ($200), Shifter bushings ($25), rear tires ($100), possibly a replacement 5 wire o2 sensor ($$$$ I think like $350), and inspection ($100).
Mods it currently has: Tein springs and dropzone struts, CF duckbill wing, blackhousing headlights, headunit, some ricer racing seats (Bomz?), and some sort of aftermarket shifter. Although the cluster is stock, it is cool that there is a shift light incorporated into it.
I feel that it needs a replacement 5 wire o2 sensor because the car feels good in 1st all the way up, but in 2nd/3rd/4th, it bogs down and falls on it's face until you push on the gas hard, then it takes off. I am thinking that the o2 sensor is internally fawked and the car will only go when you press on the gas (putting it in open loop). Any thoughts? I am trying to get a hold of the guy today to see if he unplugs the sensor, if the problem goes away (minus the CEL which will come with unplugging it.) If I can confirm that this is the issue and that unplugging it for the time being will solve the issue (for the price of a little gas mileage), I will pick up the car as everything else is purely cosmetic.
If the car runs fine as is, I will throw my s300 ECU in the car, pull the fouled o2 sensor, and run the car in open loop
. I love this ECU I have.
Well, I'll be honest. I put the swap up on CL as a feeler to just see if anyone was interested in picking it up for me to break even on everything and I will swap something easier in. I don't have the time for this anymore. I also made another CL ad for the car and swap together just for fun and to see what people offer.
Additionally, I am looking to pick up a 92 Civic VX hatch (basically stock) for $800 tonight just for something to drive while the coupe gets finished. It def. needs work, but it is only $800 with 133k original miles. Clean title, 5spd. OEM VX wheels.
It needs: windshield ($200), Muffler/exhaust ($200), Hood and replacement cable ($200), Shifter bushings ($25), rear tires ($100), possibly a replacement 5 wire o2 sensor ($$$$ I think like $350), and inspection ($100).
Mods it currently has: Tein springs and dropzone struts, CF duckbill wing, blackhousing headlights, headunit, some ricer racing seats (Bomz?), and some sort of aftermarket shifter. Although the cluster is stock, it is cool that there is a shift light incorporated into it.

I feel that it needs a replacement 5 wire o2 sensor because the car feels good in 1st all the way up, but in 2nd/3rd/4th, it bogs down and falls on it's face until you push on the gas hard, then it takes off. I am thinking that the o2 sensor is internally fawked and the car will only go when you press on the gas (putting it in open loop). Any thoughts? I am trying to get a hold of the guy today to see if he unplugs the sensor, if the problem goes away (minus the CEL which will come with unplugging it.) If I can confirm that this is the issue and that unplugging it for the time being will solve the issue (for the price of a little gas mileage), I will pick up the car as everything else is purely cosmetic.
If the car runs fine as is, I will throw my s300 ECU in the car, pull the fouled o2 sensor, and run the car in open loop
. I love this ECU I have.
Last edited by cvcrcr99; Jun 9, 2011 at 06:28 AM.



lol