Well, the trade is probably falling through. No problem. I am getting interest all over the place for this muffler. Hoping to sell/trade soon though. I am the worst at being a seller, I am wayyy too impatient.

Anyways, I heard from the shop my car is at and they mentioned that the shifter is 100% installed, and the exhaust work is 100% done. They should be firing it up by the end of today to make sure the wiring is done right and to work out any kinks. Praying he calls me back saying everything is ready to go today. The guy said he sent me a picture msg last night, but unfortunately, I can't rec pic msgs. He is going to shoot me an E-mail soon. Getting excited for progress! YAY!

 

congrats, good to hear you will finally have your car back and running. Enjoy your new engine.

 

Sold the axle back to some random person who signed up on the forum just to PM me. We made a deal and I set up an eBay auction. Ended up selling it for $550. After all of the fees and shipping, I should see about $475ish. Made a nice profit on that

Anyways, I heard from the shop which currently has my car. The motor starts up and runs fine. I can now breathe a little easier. The motor was from someone on CL that I bought back in April. I didn't know if it actually ran, nor were the compression numbers available. Just like a normal CL purchase I would think.

The timing belt is a little too tight (expected that with the H23 manual tensioner), and is trying to walk off the cam gears. He will take a look at everything tomorrow morning and hopefully fix it. He said it shouldn't be a problem, but he just wanted to let me know so I would keep and eye on it. Also, he knows I am retarded anxious to get the car back so he wanted to update me

Teaser pics he sent me from his phone!

Pic showing the cables going into the car and the new "test pipe" which was made.


Pic showing the underside of the shifter. The shop ended up making the necessary cut, but took it a step further.


They ended up pop riveting a "shield" to prevent anything from getting kicked up there and undercoating it. Love it.

More updates when I get the car back of course! Should definitely be by the end of the week. All I am worrying about now is the bill haha

 

looks like they're doing a decent job. Wish I could find a shop like that around here...

Can't wait to hear about how it drives! I really really really want to do an H2B swap in my hatch... I love reading your thread because its part of what got me interested in H22's. Looking forward to updates!

 

Yea, I am happy with the job they are doing so far (from what I can see at least..I am excited to see the wiring work), especially happy with their communication with me. I have worked with shops that say anything just to get you off the phone and expect no questions to be asked when the car is picked up.

Update from the shop about the timing belt - They called and mentioned that I am missing a washer (timing belt guide part) and that is what is causing this issue.

Well, apparently H series do not have this (according to hondapartsdeals.com's images), however a quick search shows all types of people having this issue from Preludes, to Accords/Civics with the swap. Many of the people are saying that a guide on the front and back of the timing belt pulley will solve this.

Unfortunately, the motor needs to be lowered in order to get the crank pulley off, so I am expecting a few more delays until this is researched and resolved 100%.

FYI for anyone looking at doing a H22 swap (especially those with the H23 manual tensioner swap as more people with that seem to have this problem), it would probably be a good idea to look into these timing belt guides while replacing the belt etc.

 

Update from the shop.

They are still having trouble with this H23 tensioner issue causing the belt to walk off the cam gears. They would rather just replace it with a new hydraulic tensioner instead to avoid future headaches. Here are my options:

1. Have them try the B series guides (requires to lower motor, pull timing belt, and install tensioner, then rebuild)

2. Have them lower the motor, replace the manual tensioner parts with what should be on the car and basically be done with it.

Option one is ideal for me as it is cheaper and so I don't have to worry about the hydraulic tensioner failing in the future.

Option two is also ideal seeing as the shop is familiar with these and never had a problem. As long as the tensioner is replaced every 60K.

As for labor costs, this will be an extra $500 (basically, they are doing a complete timing belt replacement), bringing my grand total (hopefully nothing more will be added) to $1500. LOL that is more than I paid for the motor. Oh well, I am glad I sold that twinloop now!

I will be going with option 2 as the shop is more familiar with that and guarantees it to correct the issues I am experiencing. I just want my car back Maybe this time next week it will be mine again.

EDIT - Ordered a 3 point front upper strut bar... sweeet.

 

I forgot all about the chain guide thing. Running a b-series chain guide is supposed to fix the problem. But, I totally understand why you're going with route number 2. If thats what the shop wants to do, I get it, thats cool. It'll work.

Where'd you get the three point strut bar? PICS?

 

It be an eBay kit



I am sure holes will be needed to be modified to fit, but I am not too worried about it. I'll make sure to post a little review for it once I get it in. Maybe a quick install guide? I think we already have one for the standard strut bar though.

 

Did you specifically buy that strut bar to clear you valve cover? I've wanted one for ever but the regular ones like Password won't clear a K series valve cover. Lmk.

 

I have no clue if it will clear to be 100% honest. Hoping it does. If not, it was only like $55 shipped.

Ok, I have a chance of picking up a BYS replica front bumper for the car for $100. Thoughts?



EDIT - just noticed that pic doesn't have headlights on the car. I would have headlights of course