Good to hear everything is working out.

Pics or you are lying

 

^I wish I could stealthily take pictures...

Engine has 750 miles on it already. It really does take about 500 miles for it to feel "normal" again. First tank of gas got me 22 MPG. Second tank got me 24 MPG. 3rd tank got me 27 MPG. All of that is mostly highway. I hope it keeps going up as the rings seat. My transmission is still overfilled by just a little. Just enough to make shifting a little jerky and stuff.

It still has zero power when taking off from a stop at an intersection. I have it in D4, hit the pedal, feel the throttle body open, and the car rolls forward as if I just let off the brake pedal. It has to get up to 10 or 15 MPH before it suddenly "catches" and the power comes back. I get the same effect when trying to climb hills. There's no power unless I drop a gear and floor it. Even then, the car struggles to climb the hill.

Maybe I need to re-reset the valve lash and timing?

 

Who says it needs to be stealthy? lol Tell her whats up and work the magic.

I doubt the valve lash has anything to do with the power issue. IMO, it is either a timing issue, or a fuel issue. No CELs, correct?

 

No CEL, good fuel. I've never bought a timing light because it's something you use once or twice, ever. Or is that just me?

 

Sounds like super-retarded timing, or possibly something to do with the torque converter. I had a Bruik LeSabre back in the day that acted crazy right before the torque converter went out.

 

Meh, you are technically correct about the uage of the timing light. you would want to use it when you replace the belt. It would probably be good measure to use it when you remove the distributor, too. However, if the car runs fine prior to the removal, you can just mark it and be fine.

I picked up a timing light from Harbor freight for like $13, haha. Just adding to my tool collection.

 

Not to thread jack, but I was under the impression that our generation of civics had the ignition timing automatically adjusted by the computer unless you jump the harness with a paperclip. wouldnt the computer just reset any changes made back to stock settings if the changes were just from removing the distributor?

 

The computer DOES adjust the timing to an extent. The dizzy is adjustable manually, usually I just set the dizzy in the middle and let the computer do its work, has never given me a problem yet. But by jumping the cel code retrieving harness clip and using a timing light you will set the timing right on without the computer adjusting it. I think I've actually used a timing light on a Honda once in all the dizzy's I've taken off, was on a Del Sol vtec actually. Valve lash wouldn't cause lack of power unless your lash was stupid tight and holding the valves open partially.

 

1000 miles on the new engine in 2 weeks. Dang.

 

Did you get the power delivery issue sorted?